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Author Topic: How to Solve an EFI No Start  (Read 161776 times)
liljoe07
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« Reply #15 on: July 03, 2009, 12:29:03 am »

The cycling is normal, when you rotate the dizzy, The Vane rotor inside passes by the Pick up coil, this sends a PIP signal to the ECM, which in turns gives a signal for a injector pulse, so the pump kicks on also, kinda like the Engine is running....Sorta.
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89 Coupe:
347- Canfield 195's, Holley Systemax II, Jones Cam, 3" Exhaust, 3" Spintechs, QuarterHorse, BE/EA

Well since you friggin disagree with every damn suggestion, just rebuild the piece of shit.
Duncan_McDougal
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« Reply #16 on: July 03, 2009, 12:34:02 am »

  Thanks for the info, this site always has the best info.
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liljoe07
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« Reply #17 on: July 03, 2009, 12:45:24 am »

Thanks for the info, this site always has the best info.

Are you having some sort of problem Duncan?
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89 Coupe:
347- Canfield 195's, Holley Systemax II, Jones Cam, 3" Exhaust, 3" Spintechs, QuarterHorse, BE/EA

Well since you friggin disagree with every damn suggestion, just rebuild the piece of shit.
Duncan_McDougal
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« Reply #18 on: July 03, 2009, 02:04:09 am »

Thanks for the info, this site always has the best info.

Are you having some sort of problem Duncan?

I just completed a head and intake swap and I am having, cranking but no start issues.  The car just cranks and doesn't start.  It does not start with starting fluid/carb cleaner either.  This is why I started testing the ignition coil and TBI.  The distributor, rotor and cap are all a couple months old and they also tested fine using the checklist.  The only part of the checklist that a part failed was as follows:

" Place ignition key in on, with the 12-vdc test light connected to a good ground, probe the (-) terminal at the coil (Tan/Yellow wire), rotate distributor left-right-left and check test light...test light blinks  = replace coil....test light on = next step."

When I do this step using the green/yellow wire the voltage drop from 12 to 0 and then back to 12.  When the voltage goes from 0 to 12 the fuel pump cycles.

The red/blue wire reads 12v using the same process as above.
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liljoe07
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« Reply #19 on: July 03, 2009, 06:55:59 am »

That's the collapsing pulse given from the TFI. If the voltage drops and comes back, and still no spark, looks like a bad coil. As everthing is there for spark from the coil, just the coil is not putting out spark
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89 Coupe:
347- Canfield 195's, Holley Systemax II, Jones Cam, 3" Exhaust, 3" Spintechs, QuarterHorse, BE/EA

Well since you friggin disagree with every damn suggestion, just rebuild the piece of shit.
Duncan_McDougal
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« Reply #20 on: July 03, 2009, 08:05:22 am »

That's the collapsing pulse given from the TFI. If the voltage drops and comes back, and still no spark, looks like a bad coil. As everthing is there for spark from the coil, just the coil is not putting out spark

I don't know if I fully understand what the collapsing pulse is.  I guess I was incorrect to think it was the coil?  

Here is what the coil is doing.  It produces a  blue spark (I seem to be finding conflicting examples on how thick the spark is supposed to be).  The spark at the plugs is a yellowish arc and you have to place the plug wire within a few mm to even get this.  Is the spark at the plug supposed to be blue and therefore a yellow spark is a week signal?
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liljoe07
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« Reply #21 on: July 03, 2009, 08:10:00 am »

So you have spark at the coil, just no spark at the plugs?
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89 Coupe:
347- Canfield 195's, Holley Systemax II, Jones Cam, 3" Exhaust, 3" Spintechs, QuarterHorse, BE/EA

Well since you friggin disagree with every damn suggestion, just rebuild the piece of shit.
Duncan_McDougal
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« Reply #22 on: July 03, 2009, 08:30:57 am »

So you have spark at the coil, just no spark at the plugs?

Yeah, sorry for the confusion.  I misunderstood what joel 5.0's meant by no spark.  So, to clear things up I found my test light and when hooked up to the negative side of the coil the light will dim but not go out.  I also retested the TFI's pin #4 (ICM Power) and the test light came on (it read 12v with the meter before.
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liljoe07
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« Reply #23 on: July 03, 2009, 08:37:40 am »

Try pulling the spout out and see if you get spark. Test for spark at the Plugs themselves.
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89 Coupe:
347- Canfield 195's, Holley Systemax II, Jones Cam, 3" Exhaust, 3" Spintechs, QuarterHorse, BE/EA

Well since you friggin disagree with every damn suggestion, just rebuild the piece of shit.
liljoe07
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Feed your MILD side


« Reply #24 on: July 03, 2009, 08:39:11 am »

Have you tried testing for spark with the dizzy at different locations. Kinds sounds like timing is off some.
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89 Coupe:
347- Canfield 195's, Holley Systemax II, Jones Cam, 3" Exhaust, 3" Spintechs, QuarterHorse, BE/EA

Well since you friggin disagree with every damn suggestion, just rebuild the piece of shit.
Duncan_McDougal
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« Reply #25 on: July 03, 2009, 09:01:09 am »

Have you tried testing for spark with the dizzy at different locations. Kinds sounds like timing is off some.

I am going to re-stab the distributor to see if the timing was right.  Thanks for you help again.
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Duncan_McDougal
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« Reply #26 on: July 03, 2009, 09:24:39 am »

I am an IDIOT.  At some point I stabbed the distributor in wrong.  Thanks for all the help and insight.  I love coming to this site because of the wealth of knowledge. 
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liljoe07
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« Reply #27 on: July 03, 2009, 12:04:26 pm »

Good deal Duncan
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89 Coupe:
347- Canfield 195's, Holley Systemax II, Jones Cam, 3" Exhaust, 3" Spintechs, QuarterHorse, BE/EA

Well since you friggin disagree with every damn suggestion, just rebuild the piece of shit.
nickb
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« Reply #28 on: March 05, 2010, 02:36:42 am »

just want to say thank you JOEL. my baby died in the driveway on sunday,would'nt start up again,checked your no start list and she's up and runnin. thanks again, if i hit mega bucks your gettin a new stang for sure.
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like a bat outta hell
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« Reply #29 on: April 07, 2010, 06:11:52 pm »

I have 1989 5.0. I replaced the fuel pump relay, fuel pump and inertia switch. The car will start sometimes and then it will die and then start about 30 minutes later. When the car dies there is no power getting to the fuel pump relay. I can here the relay clicking but the fuel pump wont prime. Then after about 30 minutes everthing will start working.
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