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Author Topic: WTB 5.0 RACE ENGINE PARTS  (Read 2071 times)
BCOWANWHEELS
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Location: KINGSPORT, TN.

« on: February 28, 2018, 09:20:22 pm »

Looking for the following parts, prefer excellent used reasonable..............

1. forged steel std / std  3.00 crank ...
2. early alum. timing cover with fuel pump / dip stick provision
3. hi lift solid lifter roller cam /lifters capable of 8k rpms /poly locks/stud girdles/ 7/16 rocker studs
4.excellent lightly  used hi volume / pressure oil pump
5.tight double roller timing chain with f/p eccentric .
6.unmolested tunnel ram
7. 1.72 stud mount 7/16 roller rockers
8. adjustable push rod guide plates
9. crank scraper / windage tray
10.head /main / intake arp studs
11.main girdle.
12. 50oz steel race balancer
13. full V belt  set of pulleys
14. Mallory unilite / dual point dist
15.ALUMINUM water pump

NO DAMAGED PARTS PLEASE

BOB
423 384 8938
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scienceguy
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« Reply #1 on: March 01, 2018, 09:19:45 am »

50oz balancer and 8k rpm might not play too well together.

Good Luck
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1966 Mustang, Toploader 4-speed
Pump Gas, Flat Tappet 306
9.88 @ 135.67
juiced coupe
Six figures worth of don't give a f*ck
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Big Block
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Location: Pascagoula, MS
The land mass between New Orleans and Mobile


« Reply #2 on: March 01, 2018, 12:52:36 pm »

Forged crank, 50oz balancer, and main girdle don't go together.

The main girdle makes me think that you are using a stock block. Unless you have an original Boss 302 block, there is no point in using a forged crank. The cast crank is stronger than the block.

I seriously doubt that you will find a forged crank in 50oz balance. Other than a factory replacement, I doubt that you'll find any aftermarket crank in 50oz.


For a small cap Mallory distributor, I believe that the magnetic breakerless is better and more reliable than the Unilite or dual point versions.
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Doing more with less, or something like that.
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

Quote from: Monte Smith
Bottom line, if it was the hot ticket, the fast guys would do it.............they don't

You might need some Titanium rods and a flow bench!  LMAO on floor

I honestly don't get it.

I'm sweating, my heart is racing, my clutch foot is twichin', and my right arm punched the computer screen doing an involentary 2-3 shift while reading all that. 
z-adamson
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« Reply #3 on: March 01, 2018, 02:13:55 pm »

More thought needs to go into the parts list in my opinion.

Some of this should be purchased new.

A used oil pump??

A used water pump?
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BCOWANWHEELS
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« Reply #4 on: March 01, 2018, 04:19:18 pm »

MY engine block is ford 1997 explorer so I thought a 50 oz balancer was correct. I,ve had great luck with Mallory ig. both dual point and unilite. no floating issues. and a oil pump is either good or bad so with a good internal inspection iit will tell the  story. I,ve never done a newer sbf so all help is appreciated
bob
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juiced coupe
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Big Block
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Location: Pascagoula, MS
The land mass between New Orleans and Mobile


« Reply #5 on: March 01, 2018, 05:04:26 pm »

MY engine block is ford 1997 explorer so I thought a 50 oz balancer was correct.

Yes, that is correct for that engine.

If you change cranks, the balancer needs to match that of the crankshaft.


I've had great luck with Mallory ig. both dual point and unilite. no floating issues.

With the Unilite, module failure is the biggest problem that I've seen. Even with the filter, it was still pretty common.

A friend of mine used to keep an extra Unilite module in his glove box, before he switched to their magnetic breakerless distributor. After that, no more problems.


As for the dual point, I despise points. And two sets is twice as bad.

And then there is finding a coil and ballast resistor that will work best with it.

IMHO, the best thing that you can do with one is to put a Pertronix kit in it.

and a oil pump is either good or bad so with a good internal inspection iit will tell the  story.

While you aren't wrong, a new oil pump is usually good insurance.

And I'd reconsider the high volume pump. Unless you have extremely wide bearing clearances or something other that requires oil flow (turbo, supercharger), a standard volume pump is usually plenty on 302 based engines.
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Doing more with less, or something like that.
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

Quote from: Monte Smith
Bottom line, if it was the hot ticket, the fast guys would do it.............they don't

You might need some Titanium rods and a flow bench!  LMAO on floor

I honestly don't get it.

I'm sweating, my heart is racing, my clutch foot is twichin', and my right arm punched the computer screen doing an involentary 2-3 shift while reading all that. 
BCOWANWHEELS
6 Banger
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Location: KINGSPORT, TN.

« Reply #6 on: March 03, 2018, 06:03:04 pm »

28 OZ STEEL CRANK IS NOW PREFERED
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289nate
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« Reply #7 on: March 03, 2018, 09:26:09 pm »

I would strongly consider an early 289 or 302 block (not the early 289's which have one less bellhousing bolt) for what it seems you are trying to accomplish.  The early block is a bit stronger than the later model roller blocks. 

For the crank I would just have an early stock/factory 302 (3m) crank properly machined and balanced.  They can take more punishment then most give them credit for.  They came with a 28 oz imbalance which is also good. 

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\'65 fastback pump gas 289, 4.56 gears, and faceplated T5.  11.123 at 122.4
BCOWANWHEELS
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« Reply #8 on: March 06, 2018, 09:41:42 pm »

thanks everybody, all help / tips very appreciated
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I BELIEVE IN JOHN 3:16
BirdMan
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« Reply #9 on: March 07, 2018, 07:14:21 pm »

Even 28 oz cranks will still walk the main caps even with a Boss 302 block and Boss 302 crankshaft.  After learning that all of my engines are 0 or neutral balanced.  I always revved to 8000 leaving the line and shifting rpm and trapping just over that, for years.

With a Mexican 302 block, stud girdle forged Eagle 3.400 crank, rods, etc 8000+ rpms was good to go.

At first I used a 289 HiPo balancer, then a Boss 302 and finally Innovator West.

In my 319 that is in the car I have a reground 274/280 sr and 8000+ shift points with C4.  I will sell it whenever I remove the engine to update to a 347.
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http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,19018.0.html
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http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,25183.0.html
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