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Author Topic: ARP header bolts  (Read 357 times)
SilverSVT
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« on: February 27, 2018, 07:18:44 pm »

Any of you using ARP bolts for your headers please tell me which ARP header bolts are the correct ones to use on a 87-93 Fox with BBK long headers, mention this just in case the hdr flange has anything to do with bolt length.  Bolts I have tend to get loose over a short period of time, I'm actually using aluminum heads but they use the same bolts.  I checked ARP's site entered all the necessary info plus "header" and got over 100 different part numbers...for obvious reasons.

...just need part # in Hex or 12 point in black or chrome.
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302sb TFS1 Cam, Edelbrock Performer Heads, GT-40 upper/lower, 1.6 RR's, Tremec 3550, Alum. DrShaft, 3.73's, BBK long tubes & H pipe, FM's, 73mm C&L Air, BBK 70mm TB, subframes, TwEECer piggyback and some other stuff.

Surround yourself with people who make you laugh, forget the bad and focus on the good. Love the people who treat you right, but pray for the ones who don't. Life is too short to be anything but happy.
BuckeyeDemon
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« Reply #1 on: February 27, 2018, 07:33:22 pm »

I used the 400-1210.  these are stainless 12-pt and use the smaller 5/16 wrench.  I was able to use a 1" under head length for my setup (I don't have BBK headers).  The 400-1208 is the same thing but a 3/4" under head length.  You should measure yours and determine what length you need and make sure they won't bottom out.  ARP seems to indicate a 3/4" length for a Ford.
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juiced coupe
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« Reply #2 on: February 27, 2018, 08:02:38 pm »

I use the Summit brand, .75" six point. They use a 3/8 wrench.

With a fiber type gasket, I've never had them loosen. With layered aluminum gaskets, they did occasionally need to be tightened.
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Doing more with less, or something like that.
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

Quote from: Monte Smith
Bottom line, if it was the hot ticket, the fast guys would do it.............they don't

You might need some Titanium rods and a flow bench!  LMAO on floor

I honestly don't get it.

I'm sweating, my heart is racing, my clutch foot is twichin', and my right arm punched the computer screen doing an involentary 2-3 shift while reading all that. 
SilverSVT
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« Reply #3 on: February 27, 2018, 08:09:30 pm »

I use the Summit brand, .75" six point. They use a 3/8 wrench.

With a fiber type gasket, I've never had them loosen. With layered aluminum gaskets, they did occasionally need to be tightened.

That's the problem...I'm using aluminum layered gaskets!  Would a copper gasket like the one below be any better?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SB-Ford-Square-Port-Copper-Header-Gaskets-SBF-289-302-351W-Gasket-Reusable/180940075110?_trkparms=aid%3D444000%26algo%3DSOI.DEFAULT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D44039%26meid%3D71aff14410f64147ac03fa7fcf93e2e9%26pid%3D100752%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D182509641451%26itm%3D180940075110&_trksid=p2047675.c100752.m1982


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302sb TFS1 Cam, Edelbrock Performer Heads, GT-40 upper/lower, 1.6 RR's, Tremec 3550, Alum. DrShaft, 3.73's, BBK long tubes & H pipe, FM's, 73mm C&L Air, BBK 70mm TB, subframes, TwEECer piggyback and some other stuff.

Surround yourself with people who make you laugh, forget the bad and focus on the good. Love the people who treat you right, but pray for the ones who don't. Life is too short to be anything but happy.
juiced coupe
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« Reply #4 on: February 27, 2018, 08:28:55 pm »

I think these are what I use now.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1415
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Doing more with less, or something like that.
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

Quote from: Monte Smith
Bottom line, if it was the hot ticket, the fast guys would do it.............they don't

You might need some Titanium rods and a flow bench!  LMAO on floor

I honestly don't get it.

I'm sweating, my heart is racing, my clutch foot is twichin', and my right arm punched the computer screen doing an involentary 2-3 shift while reading all that. 
scienceguy
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« Reply #5 on: February 28, 2018, 10:04:06 am »

If your headers are tight to get a wrench on, the bolts with 5/16" heads can save a LOT of grief! 
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Big Block
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« Reply #6 on: February 28, 2018, 10:36:15 am »

I just use a cap screw that takes an Allen head wrench. You can use the Allen head wrench with the edges rounded off for flexibility. I only use red RTV and no gaskets. That's my way and it works for me. Others may have different results or solutions.  4 Eyed
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71 Comet, 289,351w heads,RR's,12.5 TRWs,ported torker/750DP, Liberty Top Loader (2.78), 9"/6.00s, tubbed,ladder bars,11.9xs@110 ..bla,bla,bla
84Cougar,88HO,Eddy RPM/700DP, 1.7RRs, shorty's, 8.8/4.10s,T-5/Hurst Pro Billet, K/C clutch...bla,bla,bla

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rob342
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« Reply #7 on: February 28, 2018, 11:06:33 pm »

I just use a cap screw that takes an Allen head wrench. You can use the Allen head wrench with the edges rounded off for flexibility. 4 Eyed

i did that last time. (right down to making my own swivel headed allen) all the allen bolts i could find locally were too short/too long. i ended up having to grind 1/8" or so off each bolt. how did you avoid that? or were the holes in your heads just deeper?
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white 92GT, with a black interior, pony rims, 5 speed with a 3.73 gear. came with a gear, exhaust, and a powerdyne. nice little cruiser, i didn't change much yet.

have tw170's, systemax II, 75mm accufab, anderson n41, t5z, ford racing 23lb billet flywheel, and a quarterhorse sitting here. cam may change
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