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Author Topic: Creative small block build ideas  (Read 4255 times)
IndianaJones
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« Reply #30 on: May 05, 2017, 12:16:36 pm »

If you're ok with boost, then Bone stock 351w + on3 turbo kit might be the cheapest way to go.
500whp should be no problem.
I'm OK with boost, what size turbo and how much boost can be safely run on a stock long block and pump gas?
Seems to me that your best bet is a high compression solid lift 302 that you rev the snot out of.
If I go this way, what would maximum safe revs be for a Ford crank and rods?
You will also need to verify adequate bearing clearance. Those large diameter journals require more clearance than most are accustomed to using.
Will make a note of that...
If he was closer, I'd make him a deal on a 400 block I had worked on in the late 80's ... Boss 408.
Would have loved to take you up on that. Still think it would be a cool build, even if only to say, you did it.
I'd look into what guys are doing with stock 5.4L engines and a turbo on the fuel you plan to use.
These would be run of the mill, 5.4L 3V truck engines. Any recommendation for a turbo on pump gas, over here that would be 95 octane at the coast? And might I ask why you specifically mention the 5.4L, over the 4.6L, is it just because you start of with a larger capacity?
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juiced coupe
Six figures worth of don't give a f*ck
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« Reply #31 on: May 05, 2017, 01:28:33 pm »

If you're ok with boost, then Bone stock 351w + on3 turbo kit might be the cheapest way to go.
500whp should be no problem.
I'm OK with boost, what size turbo and how much boost can be safely run on a stock long block and pump gas?

Personally, I wouldn't do a bone stock engine withplans for a power adder. At least add forged pistons and ARP rod and main hardware. The new fastners will require the mains to be line honed with them in place and the rods will have to be sized with the new bolts. And remember what I said about clearances.

After that, you will have a good foundation for a strong engine. For a little more, you can upgrade to aftermarket rods and have a very strong bottom end.


I know this is a old site, but it seems right up your alley.

http://www.toohighpsi.com/

Seems to me that your best bet is a high compression solid lift 302 that you rev the snot out of.
If I go this way, what would maximum safe revs be for a Ford crank and rods?

Even with a hydraulic roller, hypereutectic pistons, and late model (50oz) bottom end, I routinely shift around 7000 and go through the traps at around 7800.

I think that Nate spins his 289 even higher.
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Doing more with less, or something like that.
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

Quote from: Monte Smith
Bottom line, if it was the hot ticket, the fast guys would do it.............they don't

You might need some Titanium rods and a flow bench!  LMAO on floor

I honestly don't get it.

I'm sweating, my heart is racing, my clutch foot is twichin', and my right arm punched the computer screen doing an involentary 2-3 shift while reading all that. 
289nate
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« Reply #32 on: May 06, 2017, 01:32:16 pm »

I mentioned the 5.4L because they have more displacement and I believe are the same size as the 4.6.  These can make surprising power with a turbo and are a strong foundation compared to a stock block 302.

I'm not a turbo guy yet.  I wouldn't be the one to talk to about specifics for such a build.  I do often think about putting a turbo on a simple 302 for the '64 Falcon convertible cruiser I plan to restore one day.  So I am a fan of turbos.
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\'65 fastback pump gas 289, 4.56 gears, and faceplated T5.  11.123 at 122.4
Outlaw Bill
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« Reply #33 on: May 06, 2017, 02:26:03 pm »

The 4.6 or 5.4 4 valve can make good power, the 4.6 2 valve and 3 valve is a waste of time. The 5.0L coyote is another good choice but not cheap.
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wywindsor
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« Reply #34 on: May 06, 2017, 02:52:26 pm »

The 2 valve responds well to boost. The wifes car make 525 corrected and 448 uncorrected on pump gas. The turbo is an on3 kit. Bolts on and fits great. All the internet stories are bullshit. The motor is a wap block with cobra internals. I have tfs timing gears and manely springs in her. sfi balancer and flexplate. This thru a 4r70w. Cheap and reliable.
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knucklefux
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« Reply #35 on: May 06, 2017, 04:25:29 pm »

And if you want to spend a little extra, the tfs 2v heads are almost as good as factory 4v heads...and cams cost half as much.
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95 gt-R.I.P.
2004 cobra-needs more boost
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