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Author Topic: Has anyone ever bought their own camshaft bearing installation tool?  (Read 1093 times)
David Claflin
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« on: March 21, 2017, 07:29:59 pm »

Thought of getting my own, figured it would pay for itself after a couple installs, any suggestions on brands?
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1990 Red LX, 306, 75MM, ported gt40's, Holley SMII, accufab longtubes, 3" exhaust, 4.10's, 318RWHP/316RWTQ
1985 LTD LX 302, ported TW's, XE-264 cam, ported Holley SMII, 75MM-R TB, MAC 1 3/4" longtubes, 4R70W, mach 1 brakes
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« Reply #1 on: March 21, 2017, 08:13:21 pm »

Lisle 18000

I have used this one for 20 years now. I have had to change the rubber sleeve a few times but I haqve put in 1000's of cam bearings, so it will last a home guy a few lifetimes
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David Claflin
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« Reply #2 on: April 01, 2017, 01:24:28 pm »

I bought the tool, and a sealed power bearing set. Bearings are numbered, 1, 2, 3, 3 and 4, I was anticipating them being 1-5. Are they numbered right, or did murphy's law strike and I need to return these?
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1990 Red LX, 306, 75MM, ported gt40's, Holley SMII, accufab longtubes, 3" exhaust, 4.10's, 318RWHP/316RWTQ
1985 LTD LX 302, ported TW's, XE-264 cam, ported Holley SMII, 75MM-R TB, MAC 1 3/4" longtubes, 4R70W, mach 1 brakes
1988 GT long term project
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« Reply #3 on: April 01, 2017, 09:29:51 pm »

stamped wrong, you can sim[ply put each on the journal and decipher whats what
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85_GT
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« Reply #4 on: April 03, 2017, 09:02:28 am »

From way back in the day and according to literature then, cam bearings were not a dyi job.  Only because they needed to be line honed after the install.  Was/is there any truth to that?
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liljoe07
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« Reply #5 on: April 03, 2017, 09:09:22 am »

From way back in the day and according to literature then, cam bearings were not a dyi job.  Only because they needed to be line honed after the install.  Was/is there any truth to that?

Wonder what the bearing material was back then. Seems disastrous with a babbit type bearing, but I'm no machinist.
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« Reply #6 on: April 03, 2017, 01:17:18 pm »

maybe in 1930 lol. old blocks from the 60s can have a cam tunnel that looks like a snake and you would install the bearing and use a bearing knife to contour the bearing for clearance. mopars are big for this, but not anything in the last 40 years. no honing either.
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« Reply #7 on: April 03, 2017, 01:54:11 pm »

40 years sounds about right lol.  Material was from that era.  I think it's even mentioned on the 1970 factory shop manual I have...
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85GT, Dart Windsor Jr, Crane 2030 equiv. Performer 5.0, 75mm TB, 88mm Slot, 34lbs injectors, 1 5/8" shorties, 5spd converted to 4R70W with Baumann controller, 3.25 9"
A9L running A9P bin via Quarterhorse with LC-1
David Claflin
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« Reply #8 on: April 07, 2017, 02:36:27 pm »

Just realized I put this in the lounge, was looking for it in the grassroots subforum, oops.

Anyway, I bought the tool Woody suggested from amazon, and the bearings from oreillys. Once I figured out the numbering, they went in pretty easy, there's plenty of videos on youtube if anyone had questions about it. Now at least the cam goes in, but is still a little tighter than I anticipated, but don't think it's an issue, we'll see how it works.
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1990 Red LX, 306, 75MM, ported gt40's, Holley SMII, accufab longtubes, 3" exhaust, 4.10's, 318RWHP/316RWTQ
1985 LTD LX 302, ported TW's, XE-264 cam, ported Holley SMII, 75MM-R TB, MAC 1 3/4" longtubes, 4R70W, mach 1 brakes
1988 GT long term project
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« Reply #9 on: April 07, 2017, 06:26:20 pm »

When they are tight its 99% because the front number 1 bearing is crooked to a certain extent, especially if you put the number 1 in using the short handle and no centering cone. You can alternatively put the back 4 in then use the long handle and centering cone to put in number 1 from the bell housing side
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331-347 Short Blocks 2099.00 and up
408-418-427 Short Blocks (F4 Roller Blocks Standard) 2399.99 and up
Dart Shorts 4199.00+
D.I.Y Shortblocks 1799.00

FordStrokers.com

Make sure you get your information from the internet gurus that haven't built SHIT, they did sleep at Holiday Inn last night, and we have a few of those gurus right here on this forum. Smiley
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« Reply #10 on: April 07, 2017, 06:29:40 pm »

Also if block is on the stand, put the cam in then get a phillips screwdriver that is decently long and has a 3/8 shaft diameter put it in the cam and pull up. Stock block bearings are incredibly soft, see if it then spins easier
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331-347 Short Blocks 2099.00 and up
408-418-427 Short Blocks (F4 Roller Blocks Standard) 2399.99 and up
Dart Shorts 4199.00+
D.I.Y Shortblocks 1799.00

FordStrokers.com

Make sure you get your information from the internet gurus that haven't built SHIT, they did sleep at Holiday Inn last night, and we have a few of those gurus right here on this forum. Smiley
David Claflin
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« Reply #11 on: April 08, 2017, 08:38:49 am »

When they are tight its 99% because the front number 1 bearing is crooked to a certain extent, especially if you put the number 1 in using the short handle and no centering cone. You can alternatively put the back 4 in then use the long handle and centering cone to put in number 1 from the bell housing side
OK, thanks, the original bearings in it had the ford stamping on them, I thought at first maybe the previous owner had them replaced and were not installed right. They didn't have any wear marks that struck me as being unusual, so I don't think there was anything wrong with the cam tunnel, or the cam itself.
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1990 Red LX, 306, 75MM, ported gt40's, Holley SMII, accufab longtubes, 3" exhaust, 4.10's, 318RWHP/316RWTQ
1985 LTD LX 302, ported TW's, XE-264 cam, ported Holley SMII, 75MM-R TB, MAC 1 3/4" longtubes, 4R70W, mach 1 brakes
1988 GT long term project
David Claflin
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Location: Redneck Riviera (Ft Walton Beach Florida)

« Reply #12 on: April 16, 2017, 04:22:00 pm »

Just an FYI, and a reminder to me to pay more attention, for some reason sealed power chose to label their bearings in a peculiar fashion, maybe the industry norm, not sure first set Ive ever dealt with.
I didn't notice the numbering on the flap until I opened the new box in the parts store.

If one of you moderator types wouldn't mind moving this to the grass roots area might be a better spot for it instead of the lounge. 


* cam bearing.jpg (5197.26 KB, 5312x2988 - viewed 41 times.)
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1990 Red LX, 306, 75MM, ported gt40's, Holley SMII, accufab longtubes, 3" exhaust, 4.10's, 318RWHP/316RWTQ
1985 LTD LX 302, ported TW's, XE-264 cam, ported Holley SMII, 75MM-R TB, MAC 1 3/4" longtubes, 4R70W, mach 1 brakes
1988 GT long term project
BirdMan
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« Reply #13 on: April 17, 2017, 03:50:07 pm »

I made a segmented type using o rings to hold together with od's different size.  4 or 5 of them so using the inner part to expand out to bearing bore.  This was after getting a block and the cam didn't want to turn, tried using a drill and oil down the hole from main and it still was too tight for me.

When I took them out the tight one should have been in a hole in front of it, someone messed up.  After installing new ones the cam twisted easily by two fingers and a drop of oil down each hole from main.

Stock blocks have small bearing od as you move back, likewise the cam journals.

My Dart Sportsman has All bearing bores the same od diameter as the front of std ones.  If using a stock cam journal sizes then you need a different bearing set than when using common diameter journals and then different brgs to match.
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