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Author Topic: Project ///M302  (Read 12423 times)
I.C.E
Big Block
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Location: New Orleans, la

« Reply #15 on: December 20, 2016, 05:35:29 pm »

Oh, nice! This is got to be one of the coolest swaps i've seen in a while! I'll be following along. Keep at it!
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I.C.E - I.nternal C.ombustion E.ngine

1995 GT    ... work in progress ...
| Factory 302 SB | 195 Canfields | RPM2 Intake | CI Cam | Probe Shafts 1.6 | 80mm PMAS | 39# Inj | Tweecer R/T | Mac LTs 1 3/4 | Pro chamber 3" | Mac Cat-back 3" |
///M302
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« Reply #16 on: January 08, 2017, 09:48:37 pm »

So today I did a bit more work to the car. Yesterday it was in the low 30s outside and today in the low 50s.
First I fixed the reclining seat gear on the drivers side. I'm surprised at how easy this job really is.



Once done, I finished the cooling system. I mounted the bracket with self tapping screws which worked well but they turned out to be too long because the bumper brackets won't go in the holes all the way.



Here's the clearance I have between the radiator and the accessories.



I ran the engine but the idle was rather erratic. It'll run at a steady 1200 or so, then dip to around 700. After about a minute, it'll run at 2000 and stay there. Then it'll drop back to 700 again. It did get to temperature and the fan did come on which I wired to the Ford CCRM. I need to find out about the idle. Maybe the idc could be faulty.
After I turned off the engine, I noticed my belt is getting worn down severely. The belt is new but the numbers are completely gone. I'm thinking I need a shorter belt since the tensioner is not really working.
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///M302
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« Reply #17 on: January 10, 2017, 10:07:58 am »

So I found the source of my worn belt. Turns out it's not short enough so it's skipping over the tensioner. As for the rough idle, I'm thinking I'll just change the throttle position sensor and idle control valve and be done with it. Below is the video of the belt slap in the tensioner
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Haystack
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Location: West Valley City, Utah

« Reply #18 on: January 10, 2017, 11:02:33 pm »

First time I saw a beamer 302 swap it was a lemons build. Sold the beamer junk for a huge profit and had money left over for a 302 and t-5 with a few mods. Always though about doing one since that.

Cool build, keep up the good work.
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1987 Ford thunderbird. sn-95 t-5, f-150 clutch and flywheel behind a 5.0 s.o. weighs about 3500lbs.
1986 cougar gs. 5.0 s.o. and aod.
///M302
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« Reply #19 on: January 11, 2017, 10:38:09 am »

I want to be able to daily this one as much as possible. Should be a fun street car and if I want more power later on, I can always bolt on a power adder.
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///M302
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« Reply #20 on: January 21, 2017, 06:48:39 pm »

So this thing won't idle properly. I'm thinking idle control or throttle position. Thoughts?
https://youtu.be/1NGfvUI2bTg
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CDW6212R
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Location: Knoxville, TN.

« Reply #21 on: January 21, 2017, 11:07:40 pm »

Have you checked the TPS voltage, to be sure it's near 1.0 volt at idle, and runs smoothly up to about 4.5 volts? You do that with the engine off, key on.

Have you cleaned the IAC before, or does it move freely in hand(off)? I don't know what the 94/95 IAC costs, but I just bought three of the Fox IAC's, for just over $100 total for them, from Rock Auto.

If the MAF is stock and working right(signal sent that runs also from about 1-5 volts), then it ought to be the TPS or IAC, also given the stock computer tune and fuel pressure etc.
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Don

1991 Mark VII LSC Special Edition, soon to be OBDII and 4R70W, then GTC body kit and 347.
1998 Mountaineer, plans for A4WD and KB 2200 blower later, XP8 parts, paint and a 332.
1973 Ranchero and 72 Sport front end ...will be a 351 Clevor, EFI and 4R70W.
RunninHorse
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Location: Floresville, Texas
Órale!


« Reply #22 on: January 23, 2017, 12:38:22 pm »

Try a base idle reset.

http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,1031.0.html
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I'm Rob.  Working on my '93 Reef Blue coupe.  Stock internal 302, 80 MAF, 75 TB, Victor 5.0, High Ports, 30# inj., B303, 1.6s, Tremec TKO 3550, Quicktime bell, Fidanza Al flywheel, stage 3 ceramic clutch, & 4.10s.  12.68 @ 111.69
'66 F100 shortbed, 352ci, 3 on the tree - on hold
'65 Coupe rolling chassis - on hold
Parts I'm selling: 
Hardened Push Rods - Trick Flow 6.2" .080 - $60
Misc. Fox Body Interior Pieces
CDW6212R
Big Block
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Location: Knoxville, TN.

« Reply #23 on: January 23, 2017, 10:09:06 pm »

Good thought, then that's the next thing to do in case someone has adjusted the idle screw, which should never be touched on EFI.
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Don

1991 Mark VII LSC Special Edition, soon to be OBDII and 4R70W, then GTC body kit and 347.
1998 Mountaineer, plans for A4WD and KB 2200 blower later, XP8 parts, paint and a 332.
1973 Ranchero and 72 Sport front end ...will be a 351 Clevor, EFI and 4R70W.
///M302
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« Reply #24 on: January 23, 2017, 11:44:41 pm »

Thanks for the replies. I'll definitely look into it this weekend and follow up with results.
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///M302
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« Reply #25 on: January 25, 2017, 03:55:45 pm »

I looked into the items you guys mentioned and I come to find out that I did a rookie mistake. I had a vacuum leak. Stopped it and now the car runs great. It's steady now in the mid hundreds. However, when I rev it, it'll stay hovering at 1000 and stay there. I let the engine run for 10 minutes and it just stayed there even after reaching operating temperature.

Edit, I'll mess with the throttle adjustment screw and see if that fixes my issue.
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///M302
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« Reply #26 on: February 09, 2017, 12:21:05 pm »

Several days ago I was contacted by the online editor of Roadkill. He asked me some questions about my build and made a small article on the project.

http://www.roadkill.com/rk-nation-alejandros-m302-ford-v8-swapped-bmw-m3/
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RunninHorse
Big Block
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Location: Floresville, Texas
Órale!


« Reply #27 on: February 09, 2017, 11:27:14 pm »

Nice!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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I'm Rob.  Working on my '93 Reef Blue coupe.  Stock internal 302, 80 MAF, 75 TB, Victor 5.0, High Ports, 30# inj., B303, 1.6s, Tremec TKO 3550, Quicktime bell, Fidanza Al flywheel, stage 3 ceramic clutch, & 4.10s.  12.68 @ 111.69
'66 F100 shortbed, 352ci, 3 on the tree - on hold
'65 Coupe rolling chassis - on hold
Parts I'm selling: 
Hardened Push Rods - Trick Flow 6.2" .080 - $60
Misc. Fox Body Interior Pieces
///M302
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« Reply #28 on: February 12, 2017, 05:14:48 pm »

Productive weekend.
Finally got the shifter situated and installed the ebay short shift kit. We made it out of a piece of 5/8" rod and applied a little heat. The top part is removable as well in case we want something different.






Now I need a shift knob, cut the handle down to size, and thread it. This week I'll get around to putting the center console back together.

Second project was the clutch. I went to Hosepower again to get a custom hose made. They didn't have any fittings but were going to order me some. They asked that I bring the hose along with images of how it's going to be routed. We were able to bend the tubing on the stock slave enough to be able to use the oem hose. I still need a new one since this one is trash but it makes it easier to get what I need.

Removed the CDV. Hose bends too much.



Reworked the tubing and dismounted the hard line from the bracket to get out away from where the exhaust will run.

OEM length hose now works perfectly.


Yesterday I went to the junk yard and got all the bolts to the front end that I didn't have. Front end is bolted on. I still need the plastic rivets for the bumper though.


So with this completed, my list is shorter and I'm closer to getting my car on the road.
Things needed:
Throttle cable, bleed brakes and slave cylinder, install intake filter and mount air temp sensor, finish front lighting wiring, button up interior, order driveshaft. Once on the road, I need to take it to get the exhaust done and get an inspection.
Almost there!
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///M302
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« Reply #29 on: April 10, 2017, 06:46:43 pm »

So a quick update. Car is driveable. Took it for a test run and UT sounds great. I apologize for the video, my buddy took it.

https://youtu.be/sxwPx9yOIls
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