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Author Topic: Project ///M302  (Read 10049 times)
///M302
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« on: July 07, 2016, 10:04:39 am »

Hello,

I've been working on a engine swap in my '98 M3 for about a year now. Most of that was spent not doing anything until last fall.
I bought the car as a rolling shell from one of my good friends after he decided to move on from a turbo build. He had money shifted the engine which required a rebuild. Unfortunately he couldn't continue his project so I purchased the car for $1500.
So came time to choose an engine. The stock M3 motor, computer, harness, and tranny would've cost be $2500. This gets you 220whp on a good day. A turbo build would have cost another $5K easy. A newer M3 motor would've cost $2500 for the long block alone and the LS/t56 is just too expensive for me. So in the end I looked into the 5.0 swap and hopped on Craigslist.
I then found my engine. A 97 explorer block with GT40p heads that came out of a '94 GT. BBK 75MM throttle body, BBK long tube headers, new springs on the heads, SCT chip, rebuilt transmission, new clutch, e303 cam, underdrive pulleys, smog delete, and egr delete for $1K.
The video is from I purchased it.



I then brought the engine home and set it next to its new home.








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///M302
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« Reply #1 on: July 07, 2016, 10:16:58 am »

After several months, I finally got started on getting this thing going. My dad loves fabricating so with his help, I saved a ton of money. First order of business was the clutch slave bracket. We used the stock M3 unit and mounted it.




From here, we lined up the engine and rolled the car in place. For like a glove.



Once we centered the engine, the motor mounts were next. We came up with new brackets and mounted them on the stock BMW rubber mounts.






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RunninHorse
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« Reply #2 on: July 07, 2016, 10:49:28 am »

Interesting project! Popcorn on Chair
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I'm Rob.  Working on my '93 Reef Blue coupe.  Stock internal 302, 80 MAF, 75 TB, Victor 5.0, High Ports, 30# inj., B303, 1.6s, Tremec TKO 3550, Quicktime bell, Fidanza Al flywheel, stage 3 ceramic clutch, & 4.10s.  12.68 @ 111.69
'66 F100 shortbed, 352ci, 3 on the tree - on hold
'65 Coupe rolling chassis - on hold
Parts I'm selling: 
Hardened Push Rods - Trick Flow 6.2" .080 - $60
Misc. Fox Body Interior Pieces
juiced coupe
Six figures worth of don't give a f*ck
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« Reply #3 on: July 07, 2016, 01:50:29 pm »

I would add gussets to those mounts, between the angle and side bracket. If it would have fit, I probably would have just bent the side bracket straight across to the block.
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Doing more with less, or something like that.
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

Quote from: Monte Smith
Bottom line, if it was the hot ticket, the fast guys would do it.............they don't

You might need some Titanium rods and a flow bench!  LMAO on floor

I honestly don't get it.

I'm sweating, my heart is racing, my clutch foot is twichin', and my right arm punched the computer screen doing an involentary 2-3 shift while reading all that. 
rob342
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« Reply #4 on: July 07, 2016, 02:15:44 pm »

here's a neat thread of a very similar build someone local to me did.  thought you might enjoy skimming through it.
when building: http://www.chitownracing.com/forums/showthread.php?195633-Dasfinc-s-BMW-Ford-Love-Child
when selling: http://www.chitownracing.com/forums/showthread.php?207951-FS-BMW-318-with-Ford-V-8-swap


do those longtubes actually fit? i noticed in the link above my friend had shorties mounted backwards like a turbo setup.
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white 92GT, with a black interior, pony rims, 5 speed with a 3.73 gear. came with a gear, exhaust, and a powerdyne. nice little cruiser, i didn't change much yet.

have tw170's, systemax II, 75mm accufab, anderson n41, t5z, ford racing 23lb billet flywheel, and a quarterhorse sitting here. cam may change
///M302
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« Reply #5 on: July 09, 2016, 12:37:11 pm »

Headers!
Most 302 swaps in the e36 chassis get a forward facing header on the drivers side and loops around the front, mates to the passenger side with a y pipe and gets a single out. We opted for dual rear headers for a h pipe and then a dual in/out muffler out back in the stock location.
The BBK long tubes were damaged when I bought the engine but we hacked them up to make a drivers side tri-y shorty header.




We didn't have enough piping for the drivers side. It was actually cheaper to buy Jegs long tubes instead of a diy header kit. So I bought a pair from Amazon and modified the passenger side header to fit.






Coated them with header paint. Cooked them in a BBQ pit and wrapped them once done with titanium wrap. Hopefully that'll be fine.

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///M302
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« Reply #6 on: July 09, 2016, 12:48:29 pm »

Fuel was done by running fuel injection hose from the hardlines to the 302 rails. The stock BMW fuel filter location put it within inches from the collector on the drivers side. I opted to put the filter behind the engine and pray I don't have a hard head on collision.

For heat resistance, I insulated the hoses with DEI fire sleeves.

It took me a while to figure out the wiring since only a handful of people use the SN95 wiring. I went through a bunch of forums. Got a new coil and TFI module. Went through the wiring over and over and then realized, it's a grounding issue.
Eventually, it started.
https://youtu.be/78Ilg8qCCtU
Once that milestone was accomplished, I was able to move on.
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RunninHorse
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« Reply #7 on: July 09, 2016, 03:03:24 pm »

Nice progress!



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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I'm Rob.  Working on my '93 Reef Blue coupe.  Stock internal 302, 80 MAF, 75 TB, Victor 5.0, High Ports, 30# inj., B303, 1.6s, Tremec TKO 3550, Quicktime bell, Fidanza Al flywheel, stage 3 ceramic clutch, & 4.10s.  12.68 @ 111.69
'66 F100 shortbed, 352ci, 3 on the tree - on hold
'65 Coupe rolling chassis - on hold
Parts I'm selling: 
Hardened Push Rods - Trick Flow 6.2" .080 - $60
Misc. Fox Body Interior Pieces
///M302
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« Reply #8 on: July 09, 2016, 09:13:37 pm »

Nice progress!



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Actually I'm posting what I've done so far with the limited internet I have being out of the country.

So with the engine running, I did a bit of maintenance. New water pump, thermostat, idler pulley, tensioner, and power steering pump.


Turns out my power steering pulley is a bit warped which is making my belt jump forward. If anyone can help me source one, it'll be greatly appreciated, or maybe some info on using the V6 pulley.

I had to get a custom hose made for my pressure line. I went to Hose Power here in Houston and they confirmed the fitting is in fact a metric 16mm X 1.5. The other end is a 3/8" jic (-6AN) to a 16mm banjo to jic adapter. Working pressure rating at 2600psi.
A bunch of other shops told me they don't know about my application and would rather not mess with it. I asked my company who I could use and that was one of the clients we have.





Radiator
The radiator is the issue I'm currently at. Because of the SN95 bell housing, it made the engine sit perfectly over the engine support and gave plenty of clearance to retain the stock power steering cooling line. The negative effect is that I can't mount the radiator in the stock location without modification.
The radiator was an eBay special, 160$ with 16" spal fan, two row radiator. The upper neck hits the radiator and well that won't work.



So that's where I'm at right now. I need to get the pulley sorted and radiator mounts. Afterwards, I can focus on the shifter, order myself a drive shaft, get my exhaust done, and drive!
I'm thinking of running dual 2.5" exhaust with an h pipe to a dual 3" in/ 3" out spintech 6000.
I'm learning about the 302 as I go along. Any help or pointers you guys can give is greatly appreciated. I'm always open to constructive criticism and comments are welcome. The more thorough build thread is on Bimmerforums but I'll update this one as I go along.
Here's a video of the car running after sleeving the fuel lines and after replacing the stock Ford fpr to a aeromotive unit.
https://youtu.be/LQ8Y0pDXp-M




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CDW6212R
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« Reply #9 on: July 09, 2016, 09:32:54 pm »

Those fuel lines look a little iffy with just a hose clamp on each end. The fuel pressure should be high enough at 40psi or so to create leaks at simple hose clamps. I would upgrade those connections.

I don't have any experience with the 94/95 302 front accessories, but the 96-01 Explorer 302's have somewhat similar accessories. They both use two mounting brackets to mount accessories, but the Explorer belt runs close to 3/8" farther rearward. That might help you, but the location of the alternator and PS pump might not. An Explorer should have those located a little higher but I don't know if they would be wider or not, farther to the side. I think you can use what you have okay, I just mention it in case you might have the Explorer parts handy nearby. It would require all of those parts though, the water pump and balancer etc, a matched set.

That should be a fun car when it's finished, I hope it flys.
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Don

1991 Mark VII LSC Special Edition, soon to be OBDII and 4R70W, then GTC body kit and 347.
1998 Mountaineer, plans for A4WD and KB 2200 blower later, XP8 parts, paint and a 332.
1973 Ranchero and 72 Sport front end ...will be a 351 Clevor, EFI and 4R70W.
///M302
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« Reply #10 on: July 09, 2016, 09:45:32 pm »

I used fuel hose clamps which apparently are ok for this application. I do plan on running hardline in the future against the firewall and then either braided hoses or the industrial equivalent from Hose Power.
I forgot to mention that I got the radiator modified and relocated the intake pipe to the side. Once I get back I'll update with pictures.
I did consider getting the explorer accessories. Plenty of swaps have gone that route, but this works for now.
I will most likely have to mount the a/c compressor where the smog pump was. That'll be another PITA later.
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CDW6212R
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« Reply #11 on: July 10, 2016, 08:20:39 am »

Good to hear, keep at it and watch those fuel lines super carefully. I'd plan to finalize those soon when you have everything located as needed.

I've been collecting multiple Explorer front brackets for what might be four projects that could all take them. I haven't yet measured where the accessories reach out to, to see if they will fit okay in my Lincoln. That's my first project and at the worst the SN95 parts would work, but I'll find out soon.
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Don

1991 Mark VII LSC Special Edition, soon to be OBDII and 4R70W, then GTC body kit and 347.
1998 Mountaineer, plans for A4WD and KB 2200 blower later, XP8 parts, paint and a 332.
1973 Ranchero and 72 Sport front end ...will be a 351 Clevor, EFI and 4R70W.
Teddyzee
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« Reply #12 on: July 11, 2016, 05:19:05 pm »

You can also get a low-mount alternator bracket for the SN95 setup. A guy on the corral makes/sells them. But that may interfere with your frame. (although you already said the rad has been modified)

Cool swap.
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'97Ranger 5.0 HO EFI T-5
'97 Mustang GT
///M302
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« Reply #13 on: July 28, 2016, 08:26:32 pm »

So, small update.
Ever since I've bolted on all the pulleys, they don't spin right this making my belt move forward while running. It doesn't come off but it is getting damaged.
https://youtu.be/PHBNt69CB_g
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///M302
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« Reply #14 on: December 17, 2016, 03:10:59 pm »

Got the pulley issue sorted. Installed Aeromotive FPR and set at 39psi. Ready to finish up the cooling system and move forward.

https://youtu.be/liYYRMTtM6A
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