Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
September 24, 2018, 02:23:26 pm

Login with username, password and session length
TRADER Feedback System
IS NOW AVAILABLE
* SBFTECH Membership Required *
435265 Posts in 37271 Topics by 9537 Members
Latest Member: Mgabski
Search: Advanced search
Advertiser Inquiries
+ My Community
|-+ Grass Roots Tech
| |-+ Grass Roots Small Block Windsor
| | |-+ typhoon intake porting
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. « previous next »
Pages: [1] 2 3 Go Down Print
Author Topic: typhoon intake porting  (Read 29842 times)
rob342
Adv_SBFTechie
Stroked Small Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 388


Location: darien, il

« on: April 18, 2015, 04:18:41 pm »

I have noticed that nowhere on the internet can you find a picture of a typhoon intake on the inside, a picture of the TB hole, or any advice about porting it.

well i bought one, i like to play butcher sometimes, and i'd like a little guidance as to how to go about butchering it most effectively.

i've attached the only pic i was able to find below. i find it kinda funny since usually when i grind things, it takes a month.

he opened the TB hole to 75mm on his front porch, i've been dicking with mine for a week. i'd like to think i'm doing a better job.


* ron.JPG (128.54 KB, 740x871 - viewed 290 times.)
Logged

white 92GT, with a black interior, pony rims, 5 speed with a 3.73 gear. came with a gear, exhaust, and a powerdyne. nice little cruiser, i didn't change much yet.

have tw170's, systemax II, 75mm accufab, anderson n41, t5z, ford racing 23lb billet flywheel, and a quarterhorse sitting here. cam may change
rob342
Adv_SBFTechie
Stroked Small Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 388


Location: darien, il

« Reply #1 on: April 18, 2015, 04:26:17 pm »

i asked for a 70mm accufab, but recieved a 75, so this is how much bigger i needed. and yeah, it's really offset to the upper right that much...on my casting at least


here's me carving deep and straight so there's no weird beveled edge with the TB in place. this helps me from getting lazy later when i'm sick of grinding.


and another deep groove. again to help me stick to the plan and not get lazy.


then i blend it in and see how i like it.


then another groove through another high spot




and then i blended that one in.


so right now i'm ~1/4 finished with rough grinding the TB opening. i leave it a hair too small doing this so it will be the perfect size after i smooth it with the sandpaper rolls. i've spent about 3 hours butchering this so far. i'd like to reshape things more, but i'm limited as to what i can do by the thickness of the aluminum.
Logged

white 92GT, with a black interior, pony rims, 5 speed with a 3.73 gear. came with a gear, exhaust, and a powerdyne. nice little cruiser, i didn't change much yet.

have tw170's, systemax II, 75mm accufab, anderson n41, t5z, ford racing 23lb billet flywheel, and a quarterhorse sitting here. cam may change
rob342
Adv_SBFTechie
Stroked Small Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 388


Location: darien, il

« Reply #2 on: April 18, 2015, 04:50:11 pm »

i skipped posting the rest of the "roughing it in" crap.

so far, i got the throttlebody to fit with a nice smooth transition. i went as far as to blend it right into the accufab spacer.



i'd like to open the plenum throat up a bit, but there is a bolt narrowing the runners closest to the throat (see attached) so i think i may need to grind towards the plenum a bit to keep the port dimensions consistent- i think maybe i should figure out what to do with the runners before attacking the throat so i don't run out of material to carve?

this is going on a street car with TW 170's

here is a link to all my butchering of this thing so far:
http://s754.photobucket.com/user/rob_342/library/mustang/Typhoon%20Intake%20Butchering

also from reading A LOT of TMoss stuff, it seems i may be better off by not trying to get the runners to flow as much as the head? just clean it up and port match the intake to the TW head?

any advice, thoughts, hate mail, etc?


* Capture.JPG (165.85 KB, 1288x737 - viewed 332 times.)
Logged

white 92GT, with a black interior, pony rims, 5 speed with a 3.73 gear. came with a gear, exhaust, and a powerdyne. nice little cruiser, i didn't change much yet.

have tw170's, systemax II, 75mm accufab, anderson n41, t5z, ford racing 23lb billet flywheel, and a quarterhorse sitting here. cam may change
rob342
Adv_SBFTechie
Stroked Small Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 388


Location: darien, il

« Reply #3 on: April 18, 2015, 04:51:23 pm »

.....
Logged

white 92GT, with a black interior, pony rims, 5 speed with a 3.73 gear. came with a gear, exhaust, and a powerdyne. nice little cruiser, i didn't change much yet.

have tw170's, systemax II, 75mm accufab, anderson n41, t5z, ford racing 23lb billet flywheel, and a quarterhorse sitting here. cam may change
wywindsor
Big Block
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1544


Location: casper wyoming

« Reply #4 on: April 18, 2015, 06:37:31 pm »

If your following tmoss from his intake porting you will most likely be fine. You need to roll the opening for best airflow in the last pick.
Logged
rob342
Adv_SBFTechie
Stroked Small Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 388


Location: darien, il

« Reply #5 on: April 18, 2015, 06:47:52 pm »

i'm reading a lot of his stuff and i'm learning from it, but all i can find on him for this intake is a PDF of dyno results, no actual info on what to do or pictures of finished work.
http://tmoss.efidynotuning.com/Typhoon_Intake_Dyno_and_Track_Data.pdf

he has a pic of the real edelbrock that the typhoon cloned on his other page. i have reposted it below along with a link to his page.

i agree i (think) should roll that opening to a bellmouth, but it doesn't look like he did in his picture. it's almost like he made it sharper. perhaps he did it to encourage the air to slam into the back of the intake so it came back to the runners evenly?

here's a better picture of the back of mine:


here's the TMoss edelbrock:

image linked from http://tmossporting.0catch.com


back in highschool before i knew better i knife edged all 8 on a friends car. LOL.


that's why i'm posting, i have ideas, not sure if they're good or not though. in the meantime while i wait for advice, i'll be grinding the ugly ribs off the top, so when i pop my hood it doesn't scream "MADE IN CHINA"
Logged

white 92GT, with a black interior, pony rims, 5 speed with a 3.73 gear. came with a gear, exhaust, and a powerdyne. nice little cruiser, i didn't change much yet.

have tw170's, systemax II, 75mm accufab, anderson n41, t5z, ford racing 23lb billet flywheel, and a quarterhorse sitting here. cam may change
David Claflin
Adv_SBFTechie
Big Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 7907


Location: Redneck Riviera (Ft Walton Beach Florida)

« Reply #6 on: April 18, 2015, 09:53:16 pm »

I depends how much time and money you want to throw at that thing. Polish the plenum cover, and if you want put something in there, like a rod or dowel to split the air and help it start turning when it hits that back wall.
I wonder if you could even put some splash zone at the top and bottom of the port inlet to help guide the air into the ports, it would take up some plenum volume, but.... Hmmmmm
Logged

1990 Red LX, 306, 80MM, ported gt40's, ported explorer upper accufab longtubes, 3" exhaust, 4.30's, 336/331
1985 LTD LX 347, 205 11R's, TFS-R, 90MMTB, MAC 1 3/4" longtubes, 4R70W, mach 1 brakes
1988 GT long term project
rob342
Adv_SBFTechie
Stroked Small Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 388


Location: darien, il

« Reply #7 on: April 19, 2015, 12:31:55 am »

 by splash zone do you mean the 2 part epoxy, as in to fill the area above and below the throat to make the throat smooth where it ends? i'd be all for that.  i could cut a 1/4" aluminum spacer to go between the intake and the back cover to regain some of the lost plenum volume.


i've seen what you do with the dowels, but how would that work on an intake like this? do you mean just placed beneath the entrances to the four runners on either side, and still open in the middle?
Logged

white 92GT, with a black interior, pony rims, 5 speed with a 3.73 gear. came with a gear, exhaust, and a powerdyne. nice little cruiser, i didn't change much yet.

have tw170's, systemax II, 75mm accufab, anderson n41, t5z, ford racing 23lb billet flywheel, and a quarterhorse sitting here. cam may change
David Claflin
Adv_SBFTechie
Big Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 7907


Location: Redneck Riviera (Ft Walton Beach Florida)

« Reply #8 on: April 19, 2015, 07:31:41 am »

No, the rod or vane on the back wall to split the air column coming in from the crossover to help turn it to the left and right.
I was just thinking out loud so to speak about the epoxy, above and below the ports going to the head to get rid of the flat wall above and below the port entry.
Logged

1990 Red LX, 306, 80MM, ported gt40's, ported explorer upper accufab longtubes, 3" exhaust, 4.30's, 336/331
1985 LTD LX 347, 205 11R's, TFS-R, 90MMTB, MAC 1 3/4" longtubes, 4R70W, mach 1 brakes
1988 GT long term project
Outlaw Bill
Adv_SBFTechie
Big Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4760


Location: Canton, Michigan

« Reply #9 on: April 19, 2015, 08:22:56 am »

Radius the port entry and match the throttle body opening if needed, other than that leave it be and save your money for a better manifold.
Logged

www.TeamZmotorsports.net

TeamZmotorsports 25.2 outlaw drag radial stock suspension 1991 Mustang
Thank You to the following for their help
TeamZmotorsports
Marcella Manifolds
Schoneck Composite
Ultimate Converter Concepts


"Stupid is as stupid does", "You can't fix stupid"
"Common sense is not common"
David Claflin
Adv_SBFTechie
Big Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 7907


Location: Redneck Riviera (Ft Walton Beach Florida)

« Reply #10 on: April 19, 2015, 11:25:48 am »

Radius the port entry and match the throttle body opening if needed, other than that leave it be and save your money for a better manifold.
That would be easiest and a better use of time/resources.
Logged

1990 Red LX, 306, 80MM, ported gt40's, ported explorer upper accufab longtubes, 3" exhaust, 4.30's, 336/331
1985 LTD LX 347, 205 11R's, TFS-R, 90MMTB, MAC 1 3/4" longtubes, 4R70W, mach 1 brakes
1988 GT long term project
thunderjet302
Big Block
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 578


Location: Chicago, IL

« Reply #11 on: April 19, 2015, 10:51:25 pm »

I will say this. I have an original  Edelbrock Performer RPM intake sitting in the garage waiting to go on my Thunderbird. The internal casting is much better than the Chinese copy casting.
Logged

1988 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp Magnum 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Edelbrock 70mm TB, 80mm PMAS slot MAF, 30lb injectors, FMS stainless shorties, 2.5" exhaust, AOD with 2800 PI converter, 8.8 with 3.73 gears, 31 spline Traction-Lok, 31 spline Moser axles, subframes.
2011 Focus SE, 2012 Mustang 3.7, 2017 Honda Accord EX-L V6
rob342
Adv_SBFTechie
Stroked Small Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 388


Location: darien, il

« Reply #12 on: April 20, 2015, 10:30:45 am »

^ can you post a picture of it?


Radius the port entry and match the throttle body opening if needed, other than that leave it be and save your money for a better manifold.
That would be easiest and a better use of time/resources.

time i have. my budget does not permit buying another intake for the next year or more. next on my list is a QH+software, injectors, T5 rebuild, summer tires, and a few other things.

besides, i figure a thread on this might be useful to a lot of people. there's nothing about porting this online.
Logged

white 92GT, with a black interior, pony rims, 5 speed with a 3.73 gear. came with a gear, exhaust, and a powerdyne. nice little cruiser, i didn't change much yet.

have tw170's, systemax II, 75mm accufab, anderson n41, t5z, ford racing 23lb billet flywheel, and a quarterhorse sitting here. cam may change
tmoss
Big Block
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 706


Location: St Louis, MO

« Reply #13 on: April 23, 2015, 10:23:12 am »

In the picture you linked, you will notice that we are in-process on porting.  This just shows a progress of opening the TB runner at the rear.  Those sharp edges get rolled and the runner entrances get further work as does the bolt bosses in the runners.  Anytime you see one of our pics, it may or may not be a finished product!

I have suggested experimenting with a "turning vane" here in the past.  Below is a pic of what I suggest.  The depth of the "V", the width and angle of the tails would need to be experimented with to see what is most effective if any.  The two runners next to the TB tend to get lower flow than the other due to the abrupt 180 turn required.


Logged

Tom 88 vert 5spd 3:73 Crower 15511 cam @ 110, 70mm TB, SMII, GT40P wManley race valves Isky Springs and Ti locks/keepers, Mac 1.625 shorties, dumpoed Flowmasters.  www.fastlanecars.com     http://tmossporting.0catch.com/
thunderjet302
Big Block
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 578


Location: Chicago, IL

« Reply #14 on: April 23, 2015, 04:49:35 pm »

^ can you post a picture of it?

I can if you would like. The casting is similar but cleaner. The runners are uniform in size where as in the Typhoon upper the runners seem to be wider in the middle, kind of oval shaped. Plus the throttle body opening is defiantly much more centered. 
Logged

1988 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp Magnum 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Edelbrock 70mm TB, 80mm PMAS slot MAF, 30lb injectors, FMS stainless shorties, 2.5" exhaust, AOD with 2800 PI converter, 8.8 with 3.73 gears, 31 spline Traction-Lok, 31 spline Moser axles, subframes.
2011 Focus SE, 2012 Mustang 3.7, 2017 Honda Accord EX-L V6
Pages: [1] 2 3 Go Up Print 
« previous next »
Jump to:  



Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines



408 Stroker