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sleepy86coupe
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« on: June 09, 2014, 12:12:09 pm »

I am plumbing in a Meziere water pump, and I was thinking that I would like to have it run automatically whenever the ignition is on, as well as being able to toggle it on/off in the pits with the engine off.

I'm sure this is a simple thing to do, but I am having a hard time figuring the best way to do it. 

2 triggers to the #85 terminal of a relay? Or would that cause a problem feeding back through the ignition + lead with the ignition off and fan switch on?
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« Reply #1 on: June 09, 2014, 12:49:49 pm »

Yep....all you need to prevent a feedback when using the bypass switch, would be a blocking 12 vdc diode inline with the ignition switch supplied source.
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« Reply #2 on: June 09, 2014, 01:04:29 pm »

I did something similar with my electric fan, and it didn't require a diode.  May work on yours.

I hooked it up so it would work with the thermo switch, and/or with a toggle.  Allows it to turn on automatically when street driving, or manually at the track to cool the car down between rounds.

I hooked the thermo switch to a relay that turns the fan on, and hooked the toggle to a separate relay that turns the fan on.  They both hook to the hot wire of the fan, but don't affect each other since they go through separate relays.

It works. 

I only have my water pump hooked up via toggle switch.  I just act as my own thermostat and turn it on when the engine starts to get warm.  (no thermostat in the engine, so I can cool it down to ambient at the track between rounds)  I should probably also hook it up to the thermo switch the fan is triggered from in case I forget to switch it on.  lol

Good Luck!
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« Reply #3 on: June 09, 2014, 01:28:53 pm »

Mike which electric water pump do you have ?
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« Reply #4 on: June 17, 2014, 09:37:40 am »

As I understand it... the diode is there for circuit protection. 

The fan controller setup I'm working on would work just as well on a water pump. 
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« Reply #5 on: June 17, 2014, 10:35:06 am »

The A.C. works the same way on a car with high speed electric fans controlled by the eec and the A.C. power. When the eec turns the cooling fans on high the diode prevents the A.c. from coming on. On the other hand when the A.c. comes on it turns the cooling fans to high.


        There is another way to wire your fans. You will need a switch with one normally open contact and one normally closed contact. When the Switch is turned one way it will run the pump and open the circuit back to the ignition. In the other position it will allow the ignition to turn the pump on.
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« Reply #6 on: July 20, 2016, 09:09:05 am »

I searched the Internet for how to do this, but no luck.  What do you know, here it is on SBFTech.  This site rocks.  

Is there a specific type of diode I should use for this?  Maybe one with a certain amperage rating?


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« Reply #7 on: July 20, 2016, 01:45:21 pm »

The A.C. works the same way on a car with high speed electric fans controlled by the eec and the A.C. power. When the eec turns the cooling fans on high the diode prevents the A.c. from coming on. On the other hand when the A.c. comes on it turns the cooling fans to high.


        There is another way to wire your fans. You will need a switch with one normally open contact and one normally closed contact. When the Switch is turned one way it will run the pump and open the circuit back to the ignition. In the other position it will allow the ignition to turn the pump on.

Using two relays gives you a back up way to turn it on if one relay dies.

I use the poor late model oil pressure sensor to turn on my headlights and electric fan, for my mail vehicle. The 98-01 Explorers have an oil pressure gauge which only shows two indications, no oil or normal. The sensor is small versus the old style real oil pressure sensor.

It allows current to pass at some pressure point, which works great to turn on anything that you only want on when the engine is running.
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« Reply #8 on: July 20, 2016, 02:45:13 pm »

I searched the Internet for how to do this, but no luck.  What do you know, here it is on SBFTech.  This site rocks.  

Is there a specific type of diode I should use for this?  Maybe one with a certain amperage rating?


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If you go this route, the diode is on the control (coil) line of the relay.  It's in the milliamps.  A 1N4001 would be plenty.
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« Reply #9 on: July 20, 2016, 04:15:58 pm »

If you decide to add a flyback diode to the fans power leads, I'd step up to a more robust diode. I used the 1N5404 on mine. I also used one across the coil of the relay, although a smaller 1N4001 was probably sufficient.
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« Reply #10 on: July 20, 2016, 06:26:12 pm »

Thanks guys.  Don't want to wait for something to be shipped.  Went by RadioShack and picked up a couple IN4742A 12 volt Zener Diodes.

I will see how those compare to your recommendations.

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« Reply #11 on: July 20, 2016, 08:24:15 pm »

Should have gone higher.  It starts to conduct as 12v and you'll be above that. Wire the two in series for now.
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« Reply #12 on: July 20, 2016, 09:31:19 pm »

Should have gone higher.  It starts to conduct as 12v and you'll be above that. Wire the two in series for now.

I don't know a lot about diodes, but I thought the forward voltage (1.2V for this diode) is when they start to conduct.  Am I missing something?


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I'm Rob.  Working on my '93 Reef Blue coupe.  Stock internal 302, 80 MAF, 75 TB, Victor 5.0, High Ports, 30# inj., B303, 1.6s, Tremec TKO 3550, Quicktime bell, Fidanza Al flywheel, stage 3 ceramic clutch, & 4.10s.  12.68 @ 111.69
'66 F100 shortbed, 352ci, 3 on the tree - on hold
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« Reply #13 on: July 20, 2016, 10:49:09 pm »

A little.  A regular diode is like a check valve in plumbing.  Let's the flow only go one way.  The pressure drop across it when flowing is like the forward voltage drop across the diode.  That's that roughly 0.7 volts.  Trying to flow in reverse and it shuts closed.  Until you overpower it at some point - breakdown voltage.  The 1n4001 is forget either 50 or 100 volts.

A zener is the same, except the reverse breakdown is controlled to specific voltages.  Like a check valve but with a popoff valve.  Using that 12V zener means it will flow in the opposite direction then what you want when it's gets over 12volts.  On battery only, no alt running, you're very close depending on you battery.  So you might start backfeeding the ignition switch circuit with the difference between the two.  Say a volt or less.  No big deal but if switch ignition load is big enough, you will blow that zener because it can't handle those currents.

How many watts is it?  Watts divided by 12v is the most current it can handle.  A 1 watt would be safe to say 80 mA.
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« Reply #14 on: July 21, 2016, 12:36:32 am »

A little.  A regular diode is like a check valve in plumbing.  Let's the flow only go one way.  The pressure drop across it when flowing is like the forward voltage drop across the diode.  That's that roughly 0.7 volts.  Trying to flow in reverse and it shuts closed.  Until you overpower it at some point - breakdown voltage.  The 1n4001 is forget either 50 or 100 volts.

A zener is the same, except the reverse breakdown is controlled to specific voltages.  Like a check valve but with a popoff valve.  Using that 12V zener means it will flow in the opposite direction then what you want when it's gets over 12volts.  On battery only, no alt running, you're very close depending on you battery.  So you might start backfeeding the ignition switch circuit with the difference between the two.  Say a volt or less.  No big deal but if switch ignition load is big enough, you will blow that zener because it can't handle those currents.

How many watts is it?  Watts divided by 12v is the most current it can handle.  A 1 watt would be safe to say 80 mA.

Thank you, that is a lot of helpful information.

RadioShack only had one 12 volt diode and I thought that is what I needed.  I bought four, so if 2 is better than 1, is 4 better than 2?  Cheesy

It is a 1W.  Here are the few specs that are on the package.



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I'm Rob.  Working on my '93 Reef Blue coupe.  Stock internal 302, 80 MAF, 75 TB, Victor 5.0, High Ports, 30# inj., B303, 1.6s, Tremec TKO 3550, Quicktime bell, Fidanza Al flywheel, stage 3 ceramic clutch, & 4.10s.  12.68 @ 111.69
'66 F100 shortbed, 352ci, 3 on the tree - on hold
'65 Coupe rolling chassis - on hold
Parts I'm selling: 
Hardened Push Rods - Trick Flow 6.2" .080 - $60
Misc. Fox Body Interior Pieces
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