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Author Topic: Degreeing in a cam  (Read 7405 times)
4 Banger
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Posts: 47

Location: new york

« on: January 22, 2014, 02:02:34 pm »

I just read an article about degreeing camshafts.In the new HotRod mag. it states that you should degree your cam to manufacturer specs.,check compression,advance cam recheck compression,retard cam recheck compression and then go to where you get the highest compression reading.Then continue to where compression starts to fall off , then back up to highest reading.Makes sense I guess,but all that cranking on a new motor,of course you only need one set of valves setup w/rockers etc..Isn't this going to wipe out the prelube?Should you disassemble when finished,relube mains and rods? What about the rings etc.? Any thoughts on this procedure?

68 mustang 347" 4 speed w/3.89 gears
You're only going fast enough if you can scare the hell out of yourself !
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Location: Russellville KY

« Reply #1 on: January 23, 2014, 07:00:27 am »

I read that article too. I like the idea.
I haven't done that yet but I've put a lot of engines together. I think as long as you have oil in the crankcase and the oil pump is working the engine will not be dry. The prelube i have used is almost like a grease so i don't think cranking it over a few extra times will wipe it off.
Good question though. Probably next engine i will use this method and pull a main cap too see what it looks like. I have a buddy with an engine break in stand so it will be easier than if it were in a car. I have changed oil pumps in a couple cars and it is possible on some Fords to get the oil pan off with the engine still in the car but its not fun.

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Big Block
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Location: Amish Wonderland of Central Pa.

« Reply #2 on: January 23, 2014, 07:42:07 am »

Degreeing the cam that way sounds interesting if you have a lot of time, but I would think that the recommendation that come with a good custom cam would be close.  Mark at Bullet told me that you can also change the cam a couple of degrees to tune for the track you intend to run on since moving the cam one way increases low end torque OR you can build up the top end by going the opposite.

IMHO, you should be more concerned about piston-to-valve clearance.  It changes when the cam is dialed in differently and even a couple degree change can create disastrous consequences when the engine is turned over.  Its a common procedure to either advance or retard the cam slightly to work around potential interference issues. 



65' Stang, 434W NA, Victor Heads, Super Vic Intake, 11:1, Braswell Carb, Bullet SR Cam, G101A 4-Speed, 4:56 rear, 93 Octane Pump Gas  9.82@138.00
4 Banger
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Location: new york

« Reply #3 on: January 23, 2014, 07:56:04 am »

I failed to mention that they said you should check valve clearance also.Anyway,I'd like to see dyno results performed that give the results of the change.Curious to how much of a gain,or if the power just comes in sooner or later.Maybe a little of both?

68 mustang 347" 4 speed w/3.89 gears
You're only going fast enough if you can scare the hell out of yourself !
El Hombre
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« Reply #4 on: January 23, 2014, 09:05:56 am »

That is a very old school method to "degree a camshaft profile" based on initial cranking compression pressure however, it does not automatically mean it will make the most power, or as Austin Powers would say..... "behave" as expected/intended.


'86 Mustang GT, X-303 cam, Holley DP 700, RG Tran., 289 Heads   Ford Smilie 2

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