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Author Topic: 93 LX project  (Read 31101 times)
69 Merc
The Ricer King
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« Reply #30 on: January 21, 2013, 04:55:01 pm »

Looks good and clean!
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Robert's 1969 Mercury Montego (FordStrokers 408W, QFT 850cfm RQ-AN, Super Victor, 1" aluminum open spacer, CamMotion HR .624"/.609" 251*/256* 108* LSA, 1-3/4"x3-1/2" headers, Dynomax Ultra #17224 mufflers, C6/4R100 trans, 8"/9" 5500 converter, Broader Performance manual V/B, 9" 4.56 Detroit Truetrac, Hoosier Pro Street 31x12.5R15 on 10" rims)

The Merc started here = http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,27178.0.html  Now = http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,34648.0.html

Thanks to Jim "Woody" and Nicole Woods @ FordStrokers 408W, Westminster Performance Transmission (W.P.T.) transmissions, TCS Performance converters, Broader Performance valvebodies and last but not least a BIG thanks (always) to my friends here and abroad in the World!
liljoe07
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« Reply #31 on: January 21, 2013, 06:47:57 pm »

Can yo u get a picture of the front with the hood closed? I want to see how those one piece lights look around the hood area. I have a pair of different style and they don't follow the hood line correctly.

Looks good though, all except that dinosaur contraption above the intake!  Spt at PC
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89 Coupe:
347- Canfield 195's, Holley Systemax II, Jones Cam, 3" Exhaust, 3" Spintechs, QuarterHorse, BE/EA

Well since you friggin disagree with every damn suggestion, just rebuild the piece of shit.
servo765
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« Reply #32 on: January 21, 2013, 09:18:14 pm »

hmm, these are the best ones i could find on my camera or take under the lights.  In the close up one you can kinda see in the upper left corner where the light doesn't perfectly chase the lines of the hood, but its a fiberglass cowl, so who knows which lines are more correct.  If you are considering this exact pair I'd be happy to remount the OEM 3-piece set for comparison's sake.

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/SDT-13007B/1987-93-Mustang-Black-One-Piece-Headlight-Pair

You have to be on your hands and knees to see the shapes don't match perfectly.  While standing they look great as you can see in the other pic.  This pair didn't come with the cut-to-fit weatherstripping or propensity to leak like a similar pair my cousin mounted on his vert.



* 2013-01-21_20-06-29_350.jpg (1036.97 KB, 3264x1840 - viewed 366 times.)

* 2013-01-04_11-33-02_725.jpg (1450.2 KB, 3264x1840 - viewed 379 times.)
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here to learn
liljoe07
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« Reply #33 on: January 21, 2013, 09:21:03 pm »

 Passenger side looks exactly like mine. I think I'll go back to the 6 piece design.  

Nah, don't mount the stock type ones. Appreciate that offer though!
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89 Coupe:
347- Canfield 195's, Holley Systemax II, Jones Cam, 3" Exhaust, 3" Spintechs, QuarterHorse, BE/EA

Well since you friggin disagree with every damn suggestion, just rebuild the piece of shit.
servo765
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« Reply #34 on: January 21, 2013, 09:34:08 pm »

Ya I held on to the bulb fixtures and pigtails in case I want to go back.  I haven't completely sold myself on the looks either.
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HIGHVOLTJ
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« Reply #35 on: January 22, 2013, 12:36:40 pm »

I wish they would make a one-piece that was more OEM looking, I'd buy that shit in a heartbeat!
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1994 Lightning #2978 - SOLD!!!
1989 LX 5.0 5-speed Coupe - SOLD!!!
1990 LX 5.0 5-speed Hatch - new Daily
1977 F150 RCLB 2wd - 400 build in the works
servo765
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« Reply #36 on: January 22, 2013, 08:16:21 pm »

Seriously...The one piece design seems like a no brainer to me, I just wish the lens was textured like the OEM style instead of clear "euro" style.

My next issue for the think tank...

My car starts immediately while cold, runs great, but if you shut it off or stall it, you're gonna wait 20 minutes to restart it.  I chased around fuel/carb issues first, but have narrowed it down to ignition.  When it's in one of its moods, grounding the mag pickup wire will not throw a spark, nor will turning it over with the key cause a timing light to blink.  Give it a breather and the above two tests function fine, and the car starts.

Setup:
antique Craigslist 6AL
Brand new MSD Blaster 2 coil
Brand new MSD Pro Billet Vac Advance Distributor
Brand new MSD Street Fire wires (7/8 anyway, oops)
10 degrees initial timing
Coil and 6AL mounted passenger side, forward of the shock tower

Blaster 2 measures:
0.6-1.0 ohms across the +/- terminals (spec is 0.7) (shitty multimeter.  did i do this right?)
5.4k from negative to the top (spec is 4.7k)

Question 1)  Are those specs far enough out to question the coil?
Question 1.A)  Would you pay $76ish+ shipping to MSD to repair an ancient 6AL, order up a new Digital 6-Plus for 299.99, or order a Programmable 6 for 316.79?  "Or maybe something really cool that I don't even know about?"


Random troubleshooting follows:

fuel pressure is good (6.5 psi)
tank-to-reg lines are cool, reg-to-carb lines are not hot
no obvious signs of fuel boiling, no fuel running into primaries
pump shot looks to be the same volume
starter cranks over without laboring
starting fluid has no effect
battery voltage has no effect
choke position has no effect
it does not even "try" it just turns over and over
Scenarios:
If the entire thing is cold i can start it/shut it down at will.  If i run it for 20 miles, pull in the drive way, shut it off and immediately try a restart it will not start.  If i then go inside and have a beer or two, come back out it will start right up, but if i then shut it off and try a restart all in the span of 30 seconds it will not.

Thanks for reading!

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HIGHVOLTJ
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« Reply #37 on: January 23, 2013, 01:47:58 pm »

I've had an MSD do the same to me, last part I bought from them.  Try swapping it out for something else (like a stock duraspark if you have one) and see if it still does it.
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1994 Lightning #2978 - SOLD!!!
1989 LX 5.0 5-speed Coupe - SOLD!!!
1990 LX 5.0 5-speed Hatch - new Daily
1977 F150 RCLB 2wd - 400 build in the works
juiced coupe
Six figures worth of don't give a f*ck
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The land mass between New Orleans and Mobile


« Reply #38 on: January 23, 2013, 02:20:12 pm »

http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,32670.0.html

This was what I used to diagnose my ignition problem.

Did MSD go up on their repair prices? Last year, they told me that the max repair price on a 6AL was $50. Ship it parcel post for just a few dollars.
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Doing more with less, or something like that.
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

Quote from: Monte Smith
Bottom line, if it was the hot ticket, the fast guys would do it.............they don't

You might need some Titanium rods and a flow bench!  LMAO on floor

I honestly don't get it.

I'm sweating, my heart is racing, my clutch foot is twichin', and my right arm punched the computer screen doing an involentary 2-3 shift while reading all that. 
servo765
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« Reply #39 on: January 23, 2013, 04:29:49 pm »

Ya I called their tech line this morning.  Its actually $87 max.  The idea of having spent 200-250 bucks on an old 6AL irritates me, so I am looking real hard at the 6-Plus and Programmable 6.  Lotta capability for 316 shipped.  Whether I'd ever use it all is a question for another day but it seems to me most people don't want to go slower with time.

The tech didnt suspect the coil to be bad, he said when they fail they usually go way high on resistance, not just a 10-15% jump.  I guess having a spare ignition controller wouldnt be bad to have lying around anyway.  The piece i don't understand is the dwell.  Do I need to limit my vac/mech advance or anything?  NAPA has a GM Control Module for like 27 bucks I may try out.
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juiced coupe
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The land mass between New Orleans and Mobile


« Reply #40 on: January 23, 2013, 05:23:38 pm »

The piece i don't understand is the dwell.  Do I need to limit my vac/mech advance or anything?  NAPA has a GM Control Module for like 27 bucks I may try out.

No. At the time, my distributor was locked out. Full timing, all the time. I just needed enough mechanical advance to start it. So I just set my advance up to provide ~10 of advance, all in at idle. So its basically just a mechanical start retard.
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Doing more with less, or something like that.
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

Quote from: Monte Smith
Bottom line, if it was the hot ticket, the fast guys would do it.............they don't

You might need some Titanium rods and a flow bench!  LMAO on floor

I honestly don't get it.

I'm sweating, my heart is racing, my clutch foot is twichin', and my right arm punched the computer screen doing an involentary 2-3 shift while reading all that. 
juiced coupe
Six figures worth of don't give a f*ck
Global Moderator
Big Block
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Location: Pascagoula, MS
The land mass between New Orleans and Mobile


« Reply #41 on: January 23, 2013, 06:20:40 pm »

First off, I don't think its an ignition issue. Sounds like the carb is getting heat soaked. Seen them get go hot that you couldn't hold your hand on them. My car has never been without some type of thermal insulating spacer on it.

I sent by box back to MSD this past March. It was so bad that the car would barely run. I just checked the ticket, it was $31 for repairs and $10 for return shipping.
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Doing more with less, or something like that.
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

Quote from: Monte Smith
Bottom line, if it was the hot ticket, the fast guys would do it.............they don't

You might need some Titanium rods and a flow bench!  LMAO on floor

I honestly don't get it.

I'm sweating, my heart is racing, my clutch foot is twichin', and my right arm punched the computer screen doing an involentary 2-3 shift while reading all that. 
servo765
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« Reply #42 on: January 23, 2013, 08:44:20 pm »

Well, won't be the first or last time I was wrong-  I'll order a spacer, but my mind is expanding at the moment. 

I would have thought the inability to fire the coil with a jumper wire whenever it gets hot would have been the smoking gun. Hmmmmm
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here to learn
juiced coupe
Six figures worth of don't give a f*ck
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The land mass between New Orleans and Mobile


« Reply #43 on: January 23, 2013, 09:14:32 pm »

I would have thought the inability to fire the coil with a jumper wire whenever it gets hot would have been the smoking gun. Hmmmmm

 . I must have overlooked that part.

Check the plugin connections for the magnetic pickup. I have seen them loosen up and cause erratic problems.
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Doing more with less, or something like that.
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

Quote from: Monte Smith
Bottom line, if it was the hot ticket, the fast guys would do it.............they don't

You might need some Titanium rods and a flow bench!  LMAO on floor

I honestly don't get it.

I'm sweating, my heart is racing, my clutch foot is twichin', and my right arm punched the computer screen doing an involentary 2-3 shift while reading all that. 
Cold Aussie
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« Reply #44 on: January 23, 2013, 09:28:28 pm »

It is definetly coil related! If it was fuel surely the engine would attempt to start on the starting fluid.
You say you have 7/8 new leads, is the coil lead the odd one out?
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66GT A Code, Jim Woods 347. CI cam with the works.
68 Cougar, stock for now, However Jim has built a Dart based 427 for this car.Custom cam with the works. Still sitting just in front of the car! 1970 Torono 429.
FG FPV Utility, the last Aussie V8 Falcon Ute.
Sons Ute 2011 Falcon FG XR^ Turbo, 6 spped Tremec, 3.45 lsd.
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