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Author Topic: 93 LX project  (Read 27847 times)
servo765
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« Reply #15 on: January 04, 2013, 12:16:04 am »

After turning compressed air into sparks for an hour or so i got it on there.  I still have to cut up some rubber washers and select a flavor of sealant that tolerates gasoline, but it should work.


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servo765
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« Reply #16 on: January 04, 2013, 12:18:30 am »

And looking at the picture now, I supposed i ought to clear out the area underneath the discharge area of the fitting so it isnt spraying all over everything.
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gmatt9858
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« Reply #17 on: January 04, 2013, 11:54:36 pm »

Sorry I'm late, but they make a pickup with AN connectors for external fuel pumps.
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juiced coupe
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« Reply #18 on: January 05, 2013, 01:48:36 am »

Sorry I'm late, but they make a pickup with AN connectors for external fuel pumps.

He's not running a external fuel pump, just a upgraded return line.

Besides, those pickup lines are hard on fuel pumps and cause them to flow less than rated. A sump is preferred.
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Doing more with less, or something like that.
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

Quote from: Monte Smith
Bottom line, if it was the hot ticket, the fast guys would do it.............they don't

You might need some Titanium rods and a flow bench!  LMAO on floor

I honestly don't get it.

I'm sweating, my heart is racing, my clutch foot is twichin', and my right arm punched the computer screen doing an involentary 2-3 shift while reading all that. 
servo765
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« Reply #19 on: January 05, 2013, 06:36:28 pm »

Fuel pressure: working as advertised, set at 6.5 psi.

The car started and idled better than it did EFI both cold and at temperature!  Gone is the idle hunting and having to feather the pedal while cold.  It's the small victories.  It may never go down the road again but I am super excited right now!  I can't say whether it is running smoother or if its just the Energy Suspension poly motor mounts vs. the solids it had in it when i pulled the motor, but it doesnt lurch and vibrate at idle either.

I was fooling around with burping the coolant, and the timing is set at 10 deg BTDC at idle.  I was jazzed that all the gauges worked and there are no leaks.  It sat there right at 10 psi of oil pressure at idle and 185 degrees.  My new electric fan regulator is even working as advertised.  I was having a hard time resisting going around the block once, but figured against it since I have absolutely no clue what A/F Ratio I'm at.  I did shut it off and it wouldn't start back up immediately, the way it did cold.

I guess its time for some exhaustive reading on carb tuning!   

Thanks again for the support gentlemen!



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servo765
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« Reply #20 on: January 05, 2013, 06:55:24 pm »

Also, I think i've figured out what caused the ultimate demise of this shortblock.  I rigged a breather into one valve cover and a PCV into the other and with any RPM a barely discernible puff of smoke comes out the breather.  Rings I guess?  There was no proper PCV on it from previous owner, so when rings went, blowby blew out all the gaskets and seals that I originally pulled the motor for.
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juiced coupe
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« Reply #21 on: January 05, 2013, 07:26:40 pm »

Fuel pressure: working as advertised, set at 6.5 psi.

The timing is set at 10 deg BTDC at idle. 


Good to hear the return line worked out.

Seeing that you only set the initial timing makes me assume that you have no way of setting the total timing. Either a dial back timing light, fully marked balancer, or timing tape. I prefer a marked balancer or tape, dial back lights can act funny with CD ignitions.

Unless you have changed the weights and springs in your distributor, you only have 31 of total timing at 10 initial and its not all in until ~4000 rpm. I would expect to see more like 35-36 total on a combo like that, and in as quick as possible. More initial timing will also make the engine more responsive.

If you don't still have them, here is a copy of your distributors instructions with timing graphs.

http://www.msdignition.com/WorkArea/DownloadAsset.aspx?id=15032386321
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Doing more with less, or something like that.
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

Quote from: Monte Smith
Bottom line, if it was the hot ticket, the fast guys would do it.............they don't

You might need some Titanium rods and a flow bench!  LMAO on floor

I honestly don't get it.

I'm sweating, my heart is racing, my clutch foot is twichin', and my right arm punched the computer screen doing an involentary 2-3 shift while reading all that. 
servo765
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« Reply #22 on: January 06, 2013, 11:37:55 am »

With the vacuum line plugged its seeing 10 deg at idle and 32 deg at 5000, all in by 3800 rpm

With the vac advance hooked up its over 40 deg at part throttle, 2k ish RPMs.  Is this too much on 93 octane?

I have it hooked to ported vacuum, btw.
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servo765
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« Reply #23 on: January 06, 2013, 11:47:45 am »

About halfway down the page there is an intelligent sounding response saying at highway cruise you may see as high as 50 degrees advance but that still makes me nervous.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/vacuum-advance-hooked-up-directly-manifold-bad-47495.html
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juiced coupe
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« Reply #24 on: January 06, 2013, 12:12:34 pm »

That sounds normal. You will only see the vacuum advance under part throttle, low load driving.

If you want a adjustable vacuum canister, I believe a aftermarket one for a Chevy points distributor will work.
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Doing more with less, or something like that.
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

Quote from: Monte Smith
Bottom line, if it was the hot ticket, the fast guys would do it.............they don't

You might need some Titanium rods and a flow bench!  LMAO on floor

I honestly don't get it.

I'm sweating, my heart is racing, my clutch foot is twichin', and my right arm punched the computer screen doing an involentary 2-3 shift while reading all that. 
David Claflin
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« Reply #25 on: January 06, 2013, 06:26:18 pm »

With the vacuum line plugged its seeing 10 deg at idle and 32 deg at 5000, all in by 3800 rpm

With the vac advance hooked up its over 40 deg at part throttle, 2k ish RPMs.  Is this too much on 93 octane?
No, it's not, i usually have mine in the low 40s or thereabouts with mine at light load
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1990 Red LX, 306, 80MM, ported gt40's, ported explorer upper accufab longtubes, 3" exhaust, 4.30's, 336/331
1985 LTD LX 347, 205 11R's, TFS-R, 90MMTB, MAC 1 3/4" longtubes, 4R70W, mach 1 brakes
1988 GT long term project
servo765
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« Reply #26 on: January 08, 2013, 12:42:10 pm »

So after setting idle mixture, idle speed, and timing I went for a joyride.  It ran better than ever for about 15 minutes and then started misfiring.  I was hoping it was going to be running well enough to meander down to a local welding shop to weld in a bung for my wideband, but I had to retreat home. 

I'm gonna pull some spark plugs and start doing detective work.  Based on the amount of smoke puffing out of the breather at higher RPMs I'm gonna go with a dual breather system to keep the motor from ingesting all the goodies in through the PCV.  In light of that, I also ordered a DIY 347 Liberator from Jim.  I'm super excited about that!
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mighty mouse
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« Reply #27 on: January 08, 2013, 03:56:47 pm »

I also ordered a DIY 347 Liberator from Jim.  I'm super excited about that!




 
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I'd rather be a fool who is loyal to his friends than a POS that jumps ship to save face. We were wrong in the end, but nobody can ever call us disloyal. I can live with that.
servo765
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« Reply #28 on: January 20, 2013, 01:20:12 pm »

I changed out a set of plugs- the old ones had been in there since I bought the car.  I just went with 3924s @ .040 and I am gonna go beat on it for a minute and see how it does.  I also went with a double breather setup to keep it from breathing in all the blow-by and oil from my cancerous short block.

Since it has been raining and shitty for the last week and a half or so, I did a little work to the interior.  I was a little butthurt about all the dead batteries from the passenger sun visor so I put in new lamps and switches into those, and rewired everything that was owner added to a relay fed add-on fuse panel.

Does anyone have any experience with the $259.99 LRS window motor/door lock actuator kit?  It seems like i could save 80 bucks buying the parts a la carte from AutoPartsWarehouse unless its all junk.


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servo765
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« Reply #29 on: January 21, 2013, 01:01:52 pm »

My heap after a few hours with a can of compound


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