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Author Topic: Removing piston without removing the head?  (Read 5584 times)
FordRacing250
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« Reply #15 on: October 26, 2011, 08:27:01 pm »

Use lots of Nitrous and window the block... That will get the piston out of there without taking off the head or crank...
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oldmanjoe
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« Reply #16 on: October 27, 2011, 02:21:31 am »

Use lots of Nitrous and window the block... That will get the piston out of there without taking off the head or crank...
  Basically  i was thinking the same thing .    no tools required for disassemble !!! 
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ochohill
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« Reply #17 on: October 27, 2011, 04:36:36 pm »

The only person capable of this is the one that can kiss his own ass.
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gerg1962
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« Reply #18 on: October 27, 2011, 06:15:18 pm »

Man...tough crowd!
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RunninHorse
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« Reply #19 on: October 27, 2011, 10:04:16 pm »

Man...tough crowd!

Won't argue with that, but this site and its members have a wealth of information.

 Welcome
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I'm Rob.  Working on my '93 Reef Blue coupe.  Stock internal 302, 80 MAF, 75 TB, Victor 5.0, High Ports, 30# inj., B303, 1.6s, Tremec 3550-2, & 3.73s.  Cobra EEC untuned went 13.9 @ 109 on street tires.
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RunninHorse
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« Reply #20 on: October 27, 2011, 10:13:27 pm »

I just read your other topic.  Does this post mean the problem is the wrist pin?
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I'm Rob.  Working on my '93 Reef Blue coupe.  Stock internal 302, 80 MAF, 75 TB, Victor 5.0, High Ports, 30# inj., B303, 1.6s, Tremec 3550-2, & 3.73s.  Cobra EEC untuned went 13.9 @ 109 on street tires.
'66 F100 shortbed, 352ci, 3 on the tree - on hold
'65 Coupe rolling chassis - on hold
Parts I'm selling: 
Hardened Push Rods - Trick Flow 6.2" .080 - $60
Misc. Fox Body Interior Pieces
68mustang405
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« Reply #21 on: October 27, 2011, 11:14:41 pm »

I honestly think you could, but you'd have to pull the crankshaft and that would be more work than it's worth to get just one out. Easier to take the head off and pull that piston. I would think you could get the piston back into the bottom but i'm just guessing. Woody the admin and engine builder said no so i would go with what he said.
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68 Mustang 310 twisted wedge 170, tfs1, weiand stealth, 1.6 rr t5 3.55s with a locker, a/c and all the creature comforts.

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gerg1962
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« Reply #22 on: October 28, 2011, 12:16:58 am »

I remain uncertain what the exact problem is.

I have the oil pan off and all the piston skirts look fine as do the cylinders.

Not sure how to check for a bad wrist pin.

There isn't anything visually out of order that I can see.

Craig
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RunninHorse
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« Reply #23 on: October 28, 2011, 12:23:14 pm »

Turn it over by hand and watch that bank.  See if you can recreate the noise.   
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I'm Rob.  Working on my '93 Reef Blue coupe.  Stock internal 302, 80 MAF, 75 TB, Victor 5.0, High Ports, 30# inj., B303, 1.6s, Tremec 3550-2, & 3.73s.  Cobra EEC untuned went 13.9 @ 109 on street tires.
'66 F100 shortbed, 352ci, 3 on the tree - on hold
'65 Coupe rolling chassis - on hold
Parts I'm selling: 
Hardened Push Rods - Trick Flow 6.2" .080 - $60
Misc. Fox Body Interior Pieces
347HO
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« Reply #24 on: October 28, 2011, 12:28:21 pm »

The % chance it's the pin, is way less than the rod bearing.

Is the piston out yet? or are we going to supposition this to death?
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... it was REALLY revving at like 4K...
If I saw that thing in my rear view Im pulling over to let you by, I be scared of that thing Huh? i dont know wich car is uglier ur or mine?
Javier
Ugly?  Easy now -- that's my baby and it's got lots of unique character!  When I drop that built 445" stroker in it you won't have any time to "pull over to let me pass" because I'll have already blown past you when you figure out what the hell was that loud noise behind you . . .  
gerg1962
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« Reply #25 on: October 28, 2011, 12:45:07 pm »

I have been turning the engine over by hand and do not get any noise.

I was trying to carefully watch the suspected cylinder/piston to see if I can discern anything out of the ordinary, I cannot.

I grabbed the rod for #1 it doesn't have any noticable play up and down but will wiggle side to side a little, then again so do all the other rods so I am guessing this is normal?

I have not withdrawn the suspect piston as of yet. 

I am having an internal debate about putting it back together and letting the chips fall where they may or taking the intake and heads off and pulling the piston to see if the source of the noise can be identified and corrected.  I have already dumped way more money in this car than I had intended (story of my life) but I think it will be tough to sell it with this noise and knowing what I know so far.

Obvously I am no expert at engine noises but I have heard rod knocks before and they sound much deeper and more ominous than what I am hearing. 

I attached a video clip of the car running on another post, did anyone have a chace to view/listen?

I do not have the equipment to pull the engine so I have been trying to find a way to minimize expense and still accomplish the goal. 

My wife is also on my case about wanting her garage space back now that the weather is getting colder.

I appreciate all the help and advice, not sure which path to take just yet.

Craig

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gerg1962
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« Reply #26 on: December 12, 2011, 12:35:47 pm »

Okay, it took some time but I got the job done.  pulled #1 and #2 pistons and they showed heavy wear on the skirts, reason unknown.  The bores were in good shape and no taper so I am guessing the re-build had not been completed that long ago.  I bought new pistons and rings, flexhoned the cylinders and put it all back together and the problem is now solved.  Runs good. 

Thanks to everyone for the input.

Craig
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WKERacing
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« Reply #27 on: December 12, 2011, 06:38:43 pm »



using one of the pictures woody had posted. looks like the main saddle is in the way from it coming out unless you got a very thin piston.
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gerg1962
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« Reply #28 on: December 12, 2011, 07:47:25 pm »

Oh, I did it the old fashioned way, pulled the intake and head and the pistoin came out the top.  I had just reassembled it with new gaskets and was thinking I could save some money by getting the pistons out the bottom but as everyone pointed out, not likely it would happen.  Getting the pistons back in from the bottom would have been another story.
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68mustang405
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« Reply #29 on: December 12, 2011, 08:11:50 pm »

So was it piston slap then?
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68 Mustang 310 twisted wedge 170, tfs1, weiand stealth, 1.6 rr t5 3.55s with a locker, a/c and all the creature comforts.

On a serious note.. wagon made 3000hp on the dyno
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