Bottle Bath 2.0

[Guest]

[juiced coupe]

Since the 5 gallon bucket heater drew so much negative attention, I figured I might as well show some pics of the partially completed larger model. I was going to wait until it was completed, but what the hell.

It is based around a 48 QT ice chest. Once finished, the total on it will probably be close to $100 (aftermarket units are ~$500-650), not including the old ice chest (got left outside with food in it   ). In a complete opposite approach than the 5 gal unit (cheap!), this unit will have all the niceties such as a thermostat, GFI protection (maybe), power switch, indication lights (main and element), temperature gauge, and a thumbscrew removable rear cover.

As of now, the only things done are modifying the cooler and installing the element.

-I cut a section from the back of the cooler (outer layer only) approximately 5X8.5", this should allow enough room to mount the element, thermostat, and associated wiring. The coolers insulation is 1 1/8" thick, so it should allow plenty of room.

- Mounted the element. I used a 1 1/8" cutter this time, a little too tight (go figure). So I honed it with a worn down 1 1/4" flapper wheel until the element thread in tightly. Backed it up with a 1" conduit lock-nut.

- The top was easy enough. Pulled a few measurements and broke out the Roto-Zip and hole saw attachment. The holes are ~7 1/4".

This unit should be more popular with the "set it and forget it" types. Once the thermostat is set, it should maintain temperature within a few degrees. The insulation will allow it to maintain temp with less element activity. And the indication lights will allow you to monitor its activity at a glance.

[mxracer652]

Any idea of what kind of temps you're trying to hit to get the desired pressure?  Water doesn't get hotter than 212F no matter how big your heater is. 

Johnson Controls makes a real nice, cheap, programmable thermostat that would work perfect for you.  I use one on my chest freezer that I converted into a kegerator.  Really easy to setup & use.

http://www.partsguy.com/cgi-bin/PartsGuy/A419ABC-2C.html

[scienceguy]

Any idea of what kind of temps you're trying to hit to get the desired pressure?  Water doesn't get hotter than 212F no matter how big your heater is. 

Boiling water would be WAY too hot.  If the bottle is even hot to the touch, the pressure will be way too high, and is in danger of rupturing the safety disk.

Warm water is all it needs.  Once it gets too hot, it reaches a critical temperature where all the liquid nitrous tries to turn into a gas, which pressurizes the bottle QUICK.  Plus, you want liquid coming out of the system.  That critical temperature comes out to a resulting pressure of around 1050 psi or so.

Warm.  Not hot. 

[juiced coupe]

Any idea of what kind of temps you're trying to hit to get the desired pressure?  Water doesn't get hotter than 212F no matter how big your heater is. 

92-94* seems to be the ideal area. The idea is to get a even heating of the bottle instead of a hot spot.

Johnson Controls makes a real nice, cheap, programmable thermostat that would work perfect for you.  I use one on my chest freezer that I converted into a kegerator.  Really easy to setup & use.

http://www.partsguy.com/cgi-bin/PartsGuy/A419ABC-2C.html

I've seen those, very nice. A simple $15 thermostat for a water heater is sufficient. The ones I have found have a low set point of 90*, although I'm hearing that its actually more like 80*.

[juiced coupe]

Finally got off my ass and did a little more work to it. Got the thermostat and temperature gauge installed.

- To reduce the chance of leaks, I tapped the plastic shell and used sealer on the bolts to mount the thermostat. I then backed it up with a couple fender washers with RTV on them.

- Mounting the gauge took a little thought, as it is just a basic cooking model. So I drilled out a 1/8" compression fitting and replaced the ferule with a O ring. I also tapped the plastic for the 1/8" NPT hole. I also made a makeshift bulkhead nut by re-threading a 3/8" nut to 1/8" NPT. I ran the tap through both sides so there wouldn't be any taper.

- I haven't got it done yet but I picked up the parts for the back cover. I picked up a piece of 1/8" lexan and some small thumb screws. It will be mounted to the cooler with threaded inserts.

[69 Merc]

Far out, man.     

[85_GT]

92-94* seems to be the ideal area. The idea is to get a even heating of the bottle instead of a hot spot.

These kind of high flow/low power pumps would take car of the hot spots. I use a couple of the older 400 gph ones in a 30 gal tank.  Move the water around quite well.  There are now some knock off versions for less too.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+4586+23592&pcatid=23592

[juiced coupe]

92-94* seems to be the ideal area. The idea is to get a even heating of the bottle instead of a hot spot.

These kind of high flow/low power pumps would take car of the hot spots. I use a couple of the older 400 gph ones in a 30 gal tank.  Move the water around quite well.  There are now some knock off versions for less too.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+4586+23592&pcatid=23592

Circulation pumps are used on larger models. Once this one is brought up to temperature, I think the heat will be fairly even. The problems with hot spots are more common when using other methods (strips, lights, hot air, etc.).

[TooFast98Cobra]

nice build!

[juiced coupe]

Finally wrapped this thing up. I didn't do the GFI because I couldn't bring myself to cutting the end off a $35 inline unit. I also didn't do the indication light for the element because I couldn't find one I liked that would fit.

What we do have here is a power tool cord with strain relief, lighted rocker switch, inline ceramic fuse protection, thermostat adjustment point, and thumbscrews for easy removal.

[95GTspeeddemon]

i like it!

[fast88]

How much shipped to 19720?