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Author Topic: Bottle Bath 2.0  (Read 7878 times)
juiced coupe
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« on: October 16, 2011, 11:45:18 pm »

Since the 5 gallon bucket heater drew so much negative attention, I figured I might as well show some pics of the partially completed larger model. I was going to wait until it was completed, but what the hell.

It is based around a 48 QT ice chest. Once finished, the total on it will probably be close to $100 (aftermarket units are ~$500-650), not including the old ice chest (got left outside with food in it   ). In a complete opposite approach than the 5 gal unit (cheap!), this unit will have all the niceties such as a thermostat, GFI protection (maybe), power switch, indication lights (main and element), temperature gauge, and a thumbscrew removable rear cover.

As of now, the only things done are modifying the cooler and installing the element.

-I cut a section from the back of the cooler (outer layer only) approximately 5X8.5", this should allow enough room to mount the element, thermostat, and associated wiring. The coolers insulation is 1 1/8" thick, so it should allow plenty of room.

- Mounted the element. I used a 1 1/8" cutter this time, a little too tight (go figure). So I honed it with a worn down 1 1/4" flapper wheel until the element thread in tightly. Backed it up with a 1" conduit lock-nut.

- The top was easy enough. Pulled a few measurements and broke out the Roto-Zip and hole saw attachment. The holes are ~7 1/4".

This unit should be more popular with the "set it and forget it" types. Once the thermostat is set, it should maintain temperature within a few degrees. The insulation will allow it to maintain temp with less element activity. And the indication lights will allow you to monitor its activity at a glance.


* Bottle Bath 001.JPG (741.46 KB, 2048x1536 - viewed 207 times.)

* Bottle Bath 002.JPG (539.43 KB, 2048x1536 - viewed 228 times.)

* Bottle Bath 003.JPG (519.73 KB, 2048x1536 - viewed 211 times.)
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Just a 12 second car with a 11 second engine.....that runs 10s
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

Quote from: Monte Smith
Bottom line, if it was the hot ticket, the fast guys would do it.............they don't

You might need some Titanium rods and a flow bench!  LMAO on floor
mxracer652
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« Reply #1 on: October 17, 2011, 07:37:32 am »

Any idea of what kind of temps you're trying to hit to get the desired pressure?  Water doesn't get hotter than 212F no matter how big your heater is. 

Johnson Controls makes a real nice, cheap, programmable thermostat that would work perfect for you.  I use one on my chest freezer that I converted into a kegerator.  Really easy to setup & use.

http://www.partsguy.com/cgi-bin/PartsGuy/A419ABC-2C.html
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86 LTD wagon, stock longblock 302 & 70mm turbo
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scienceguy
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« Reply #2 on: October 17, 2011, 08:22:03 am »

Any idea of what kind of temps you're trying to hit to get the desired pressure?  Water doesn't get hotter than 212F no matter how big your heater is. 

Boiling water would be WAY too hot.  If the bottle is even hot to the touch, the pressure will be way too high, and is in danger of rupturing the safety disk.

Warm water is all it needs.  Once it gets too hot, it reaches a critical temperature where all the liquid nitrous tries to turn into a gas, which pressurizes the bottle QUICK.  Plus, you want liquid coming out of the system.  That critical temperature comes out to a resulting pressure of around 1050 psi or so.

Warm.  Not hot.  Smiley
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juiced coupe
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« Reply #3 on: October 17, 2011, 08:50:34 am »

Any idea of what kind of temps you're trying to hit to get the desired pressure?  Water doesn't get hotter than 212F no matter how big your heater is. 

92-94* seems to be the ideal area. The idea is to get a even heating of the bottle instead of a hot spot.

Johnson Controls makes a real nice, cheap, programmable thermostat that would work perfect for you.  I use one on my chest freezer that I converted into a kegerator.  Really easy to setup & use.

http://www.partsguy.com/cgi-bin/PartsGuy/A419ABC-2C.html

I've seen those, very nice. A simple $15 thermostat for a water heater is sufficient. The ones I have found have a low set point of 90*, although I'm hearing that its actually more like 80*.
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Just a 12 second car with a 11 second engine.....that runs 10s
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

Quote from: Monte Smith
Bottom line, if it was the hot ticket, the fast guys would do it.............they don't

You might need some Titanium rods and a flow bench!  LMAO on floor
juiced coupe
Six figures worth of don't give a f*ck
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« Reply #4 on: November 28, 2011, 04:55:40 pm »

Finally got off my ass and did a little more work to it. Got the thermostat and temperature gauge installed.

- To reduce the chance of leaks, I tapped the plastic shell and used sealer on the bolts to mount the thermostat. I then backed it up with a couple fender washers with RTV on them.

- Mounting the gauge took a little thought, as it is just a basic cooking model. So I drilled out a 1/8" compression fitting and replaced the ferule with a O ring. I also tapped the plastic for the 1/8" NPT hole. I also made a makeshift bulkhead nut by re-threading a 3/8" nut to 1/8" NPT. I ran the tap through both sides so there wouldn't be any taper.

- I haven't got it done yet but I picked up the parts for the back cover. I picked up a piece of 1/8" lexan and some small thumb screws. It will be mounted to the cooler with threaded inserts.


* stat.JPG (279.46 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 179 times.)

* Temp.JPG (388.62 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 152 times.)

* Inside.JPG (126.87 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 165 times.)
« Last Edit: November 29, 2011, 11:38:54 am by juiced coupe » Logged

Just a 12 second car with a 11 second engine.....that runs 10s
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

Quote from: Monte Smith
Bottom line, if it was the hot ticket, the fast guys would do it.............they don't

You might need some Titanium rods and a flow bench!  LMAO on floor
69 Merc
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« Reply #5 on: November 28, 2011, 08:39:47 pm »

Far out, man.     
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Robert's 1969 Mercury Montego (FordStrokers 408W, QFT 850cfm RQ-AN, Super Victor, 2" aluminum open spacer, CamMotion HR .624/.609 251/256 108, 1-3/4" x 3" headers, Broader Performance RmV/B under a C6/4R100 behind a 8"/9" billet 5500 stall, 9" 4.56 Detroit Truetrac, M/T ET radial streets 315/60-15 on 10" rims)

The Merc started here = http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,27178.0.html

Irwindale Speedway 1/8 mile (1st time at a track!) = 7.647 @ 90.78mph with a crappy 1.878 sixty foot (3850# race weight)

Present day Merc = http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,34648.0.html


Except that engine building (properly) is a labor intensive industry.  Who do you think does all the measuring and machining?  Little engine shop fairies?  Not to mention assembly, mock up and parts fitting.

At Woody's level you are not just paying for his labor but for his skill set as well.

Thanks FordStrokers 408W, Westminster Performance Transmission (W.P.T.) transmissions, TCS Performance converters, Broader Performance valvebodies and last but not least a BIG thanks (always) to my friends here and abroad in the World!
85_GT
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« Reply #6 on: November 28, 2011, 09:48:59 pm »



92-94* seems to be the ideal area. The idea is to get a even heating of the bottle instead of a hot spot.


These kind of high flow/low power pumps would take car of the hot spots. I use a couple of the older 400 gph ones in a 30 gal tank.  Move the water around quite well.  There are now some knock off versions for less too.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+4586+23592&pcatid=23592
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85GT, Dart Windsor Jr, Crane 2030 equiv. Performer 5.0, 75mm TB, 88mm Slot, 34lbs injectors, 1 5/8" shorties, 5spd converted to 4R70W with Baumann controller, 3.25 9"
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juiced coupe
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« Reply #7 on: November 29, 2011, 11:25:14 am »



92-94* seems to be the ideal area. The idea is to get a even heating of the bottle instead of a hot spot.


These kind of high flow/low power pumps would take car of the hot spots. I use a couple of the older 400 gph ones in a 30 gal tank.  Move the water around quite well.  There are now some knock off versions for less too.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+4586+23592&pcatid=23592

Circulation pumps are used on larger models. Once this one is brought up to temperature, I think the heat will be fairly even. The problems with hot spots are more common when using other methods (strips, lights, hot air, etc.).
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Just a 12 second car with a 11 second engine.....that runs 10s
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

Quote from: Monte Smith
Bottom line, if it was the hot ticket, the fast guys would do it.............they don't

You might need some Titanium rods and a flow bench!  LMAO on floor
TooFast98Cobra
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« Reply #8 on: November 30, 2011, 08:10:19 am »

nice build!
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'98 Cobra----Jackstand Queen----SOLD
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juiced coupe
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« Reply #9 on: December 23, 2011, 05:18:42 pm »

Finally wrapped this thing up. I didn't do the GFI because I couldn't bring myself to cutting the end off a $35 inline unit. I also didn't do the indication light for the element because I couldn't find one I liked that would fit.

What we do have here is a power tool cord with strain relief, lighted rocker switch, inline ceramic fuse protection, thermostat adjustment point, and thumbscrews for easy removal.


* Switch plate 001.JPG (181.71 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 241 times.)

* Switch plate 002.JPG (284.96 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 154 times.)
Logged

Just a 12 second car with a 11 second engine.....that runs 10s
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

Quote from: Monte Smith
Bottom line, if it was the hot ticket, the fast guys would do it.............they don't

You might need some Titanium rods and a flow bench!  LMAO on floor
95GTspeeddemon
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« Reply #10 on: December 23, 2011, 10:56:16 pm »

i like it!
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95gt, 302, canfield 195's, canfield efi intake; efi sheetmetal elbow, 331 custom cam, 90mm accufab TB, 1 3/4 accufab LT's, 3in accufab h pipe, 3in magnapacks, 4.30's, solid bushing rear upper/lower team z suspension, team z tubular k member and A arms, front coil overs with strange 10 way all the way around. TKO600. 12.9 @ 115 2.0 60' 1300DA
fast88
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« Reply #11 on: December 26, 2011, 10:58:35 pm »

How much shipped to 19720?  Whistling  Grin
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slow89
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« Reply #12 on: August 23, 2014, 12:12:42 pm »

Im a noob to nitrous (turbo/blown guy) so pardon if this is a dumb question, but why not just use the NOS heaters they sell for like $90?
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RunninHorse
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« Reply #13 on: August 23, 2014, 12:46:13 pm »

Juiced is that heating element going to melt the ice chest?  I dunno how hot that things going to get.

Do you have a bottle pressure gauge so you can monitor it?
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I'm Rob.  Working on my '93 Reef Blue coupe.  Stock internal 302, 80 MAF, 75 TB, Victor 5.0, High Ports, 30# inj., B303, 1.6s, Tremec 3550-2, & 3.73s.  Cobra EEC untuned went 13.9 @ 109 on street tires.
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juiced coupe
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« Reply #14 on: August 23, 2014, 01:50:32 pm »

Juiced is that heating element going to melt the ice chest? 

If you ran it without water. Otherwise, the plastic isn't going to get much hotter than the water.

Do you have a bottle pressure gauge so you can monitor it?

Yes I do. Once the temperature is set, the bottle pressure should only get so high.
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Just a 12 second car with a 11 second engine.....that runs 10s
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

Quote from: Monte Smith
Bottom line, if it was the hot ticket, the fast guys would do it.............they don't

You might need some Titanium rods and a flow bench!  LMAO on floor
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