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Author Topic: 289 Build  (Read 3450 times)
TF66
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Location: Concord, NC

« on: June 30, 2011, 09:40:16 am »

Well here i finally go.. took me 4 years to get the rust bucket to the point to where i need to start getting parts/pieces together for my motor!! yea for me !
Looking for some advice/help on my build.

the car: 66 mustang(finally in f-n paint), home made front coilover suspension with Penske 7500 shocks, tubular sway bar, randells rack&pinion steering, homemade coilover rear suspension w/ torque arm and watts link on a 9' with 4;00gear, 4 wheel wilwood disk brakes w/tilton 2 master 1 clutch penal box..
the trans: G-Force T-5

the motor: i have the original 289 block/crank/rods that i would like to use. i also have a paxton sl1200 blowthru supercharger @ 8lbs. boost.. everything else i need to purchase..
my parts list that i was looking at getting: TF Twisted 190/64cc heads/ lunati cam spec'd a@238/248@.050--.517/.536--112l.s.--1.6 rocker/Accel DFI fuel injection with help from Eli on the tune. pistons to keep comp. at 9:1
What do you guys think??
  Thanks to everyone on this site for the years of reading and attempting to learn!  Todd
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mighty mouse
"Prom King Mista Nathan Moonen"
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Location: Decorah, Iowa

« Reply #1 on: June 30, 2011, 11:25:03 am »

Changes I would make:

custom cam
more compression
Grab a 2m 302 crank (usually free or maybe $10)
some good aftermarket rods
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1986 Mustang GT Convertible
Suspension and Differential by Team Z Motorsports
8.2 Deck Forged Shortblock by FordStrokers

With a Novi2000...

I'd rather be a fool who is loyal to his friends than a POS that jumps ship to save face. We were wrong in the end, but nobody can ever call us disloyal. I can live with that.
juiced coupe
Six figures worth of don't give a f*ck
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Location: Pascagoula, MS
The land mass between New Orleans and Mobile


« Reply #2 on: June 30, 2011, 11:29:26 am »

TF Twisted 190/64cc heads/ lunati cam spec'd a@238/248@.050--.517/.536--112l.s.

I think thats going to be too much cam with those heads, unless you plan on turning it 8000+ rpm.
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Just a 12 second car with a 11 second engine.....that runs 10s
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

Quote from: Monte Smith
Bottom line, if it was the hot ticket, the fast guys would do it.............they don't

You might need some Titanium rods and a flow bench!  LMAO on floor
TF66
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« Reply #3 on: June 30, 2011, 01:05:02 pm »

first off thanks for the replies, SBFTech Rules

the idea was to not turn it over 6500rpm..

 the car is for scca/ HPDE / Pro-touring track days and to have fun..

what heads then ? the only thing that sent me the direction of the 190 heads was the low end rpm that you get into running solo events.

I thought the first thing was going to be tha cam was to small !!
 
Is "2M" the casting i.d.  for the crank? 

i havent spent  a dime on engine parts yet so i'm trying to get my act together on what to buy..

thanks again..
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mighty mouse
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« Reply #4 on: June 30, 2011, 01:11:22 pm »

I have no issue with the 190FAC heads on this... in fact, I like them.

Just mill them down a touch to get around 9.5 - 10.1.

I recommend a custom cam so you can run a decent compression ratio with that blower.

The 2m crank is a stock 2 piece rear main 302 crank.  Its free cubes and you would be silly to reuse stock 289 junk unless you were in a class that required you to.
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1986 Mustang GT Convertible
Suspension and Differential by Team Z Motorsports
8.2 Deck Forged Shortblock by FordStrokers

With a Novi2000...

I'd rather be a fool who is loyal to his friends than a POS that jumps ship to save face. We were wrong in the end, but nobody can ever call us disloyal. I can live with that.
jtmustang
Adv_SBFTechie
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Location: arlington , washington

« Reply #5 on: June 30, 2011, 01:21:16 pm »

isnt the 2m crank a newer 1 piece seal..i have a few here that are marked 2mae or something and theyre both 1 piece seal motors.. Wonder, Ponder
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mighty mouse
"Prom King Mista Nathan Moonen"
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« Reply #6 on: June 30, 2011, 01:27:10 pm »

isnt the 2m crank a newer 1 piece seal..i have a few here that are marked 2mae or something and theyre both 1 piece seal motors.. Wonder, Ponder

Look at what you wrote and you will see...

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1986 Mustang GT Convertible
Suspension and Differential by Team Z Motorsports
8.2 Deck Forged Shortblock by FordStrokers

With a Novi2000...

I'd rather be a fool who is loyal to his friends than a POS that jumps ship to save face. We were wrong in the end, but nobody can ever call us disloyal. I can live with that.
TF66
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« Reply #7 on: June 30, 2011, 01:53:38 pm »

million $$$$ question...who do i get the cam from?? 
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TF66
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« Reply #8 on: July 04, 2011, 06:22:26 am »

got the crank yesterday (free Grin)... what piston should i be looking for ? i have found some info online about putting a 302 crank in a 289 but nothing solid about the piston that is used...

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juiced coupe
Six figures worth of don't give a f*ck
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The land mass between New Orleans and Mobile


« Reply #9 on: July 04, 2011, 07:30:15 am »

got the crank yesterday (free Grin)... what piston should i be looking for ? i have found some info online about putting a 302 crank in a 289 but nothing solid about the piston that is used...



302s have a shorter rod, they use the same piston. However, there are some pistons available that allow you to use the slightly longer 289 rods with the 302 crank.
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Just a 12 second car with a 11 second engine.....that runs 10s
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

Quote from: Monte Smith
Bottom line, if it was the hot ticket, the fast guys would do it.............they don't

You might need some Titanium rods and a flow bench!  LMAO on floor
mighty mouse
"Prom King Mista Nathan Moonen"
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Big Block
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Location: Decorah, Iowa

« Reply #10 on: July 04, 2011, 08:55:13 am »

Or if you are going to buy aftermarket rods instead of going through the rigamaroe(sp) of updating stock rods, grab some 5.4 rods and use a set of 418 pistons.
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1986 Mustang GT Convertible
Suspension and Differential by Team Z Motorsports
8.2 Deck Forged Shortblock by FordStrokers

With a Novi2000...

I'd rather be a fool who is loyal to his friends than a POS that jumps ship to save face. We were wrong in the end, but nobody can ever call us disloyal. I can live with that.
ochohill
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Location: phoenix

« Reply #11 on: July 04, 2011, 07:13:14 pm »

I would like extensive information on your custom coil over front and torque arm rear suspension.
Can you send post a link of the build? I am curious how you solved several problems.
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TF66
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Location: Concord, NC

« Reply #12 on: July 09, 2011, 02:03:15 pm »

I dont know if the response will get moved..
The suspension is a copy of the things i liked from the off the self kits that are on the market, some things i knew i could make alot better.. i also wanted to have alot more adjustment. The front has a narrowed up Cup car UCA, the arm gives me caster adjustment. The mount in the unibody has been opened up to accept a antidive slug, so instead of just 1 hole "Shelby" drop for the mounting point of the upper arm i have the ability to move it a 1/16" at a time. The LCA has a "johnny joint" from Currie at the rear body mount and a clevis and heim for the front arm. I used screw in Howe Ball Joints that have different hight pins to change arm angles if needed, the lower also holds the bottom of the coilover, the top of the coilover has a mount bolted into the original coil bucket. The Sway bar is custom made using 1 1/2" splined ends welded to .125 wall chromoly.I turned the bar down inn the middle 20inches until i got the rate to where i thought it should be. The sway bar and front LCA frame mounts are welded to a plated area the use to hold the front LCA Mount. I have added gussets to the spindles as well.
The Rear has a shortened Cup car truck arm that has a mono ball mount on the rear end and a rubber bushing at the front mount. The pinion angle is held by 2 radius rods that go from the top of the housing to the torque arm. The arm is mounted to a 3 hole slotted mount 44" forward of the rear-end. The side mounts hold the outside radius rods and coilovers. The watts link pivot is mounted on the housing using a slotted mount that is 2" long. The pivot is spaced 2 1/4" & 3" from CL . The link rods go to frame mounts the are spaced the same for ride height changes from track to street...
When the car goes back together i will post some pictures.  Trying to figure out what color its going to be has about killed me! 
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ochohill
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« Reply #13 on: July 10, 2011, 09:24:28 pm »

This forum has a project section you can use to post pics of the car.
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prof7376
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« Reply #14 on: July 19, 2011, 08:04:32 pm »

Or if you are going to buy aftermarket rods instead of going through the rigamaroe(sp) of updating stock rods, grab some 5.4 rods and use a set of 418 pistons.

Well crap if you are going to spend aftermarket rod money I see no point in staying 302.  A blown 347 sounds better.  If you are trying to save money then I would stay 302 and get good rod bolts.  If you find the need for a/m rods then an extra few hundred for a Scat cast 3.4 crank.  My 289 will not get rebuilt if the bottom end ever goes south.  I used it because I had the complete shortblock.  All I had to do is put a set of rings and bearings into it. 
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Hold 'er to the floor and hope for the best

1984 Frankenstien. (Sold)
1994 GT Convert.  65 .030 289, AFR 185s, Comp SFT, Weiand X-cellerator, QFT 600 HR, Accufab 1.75 Midlength, 5 spd 3.73.  Cruiser!!
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