Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
April 20, 2018, 08:47:29 am

Login with username, password and session length
435157 Posts in 37249 Topics by 9534 Members
Latest Member: 88_GT
Search: Advanced search
Advertiser Inquiries
+ SBFTECH.com Experienced Small Block Ford Tech
|-+ Membership Tech
| |-+ Projects Under Construction
| | |-+ 65' Mustang GT
0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic. « previous next »
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 74 Go Down Print
Author Topic: 65' Mustang GT  (Read 465528 times)
dennis112
Adv_SBFTechie
Big Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2345


Location: Amish Wonderland of Central Pa.

« on: April 29, 2011, 07:20:23 pm »

Since I just had minor surgery on my knee Sick, invalid I thought I'd fill you in on my car.

Over the winter I decided to redo the body on my 65' Mustang GT.  During the summer I had lost a front tire at 90+ mph at the track and it destroyed the LH fender.  Since the paint was over 30 years old, I felt that it couldn't be matched and thus I was decided to do a full paint job.  Well one thing led to another and the simple paint job is still ongoing . . . . .

Since these 46 year old cars are known for having rusted cowls, I tackled that first.  I removed the front cap, the front doors, and then drilled out 166 spot welds.  I was greeted with a small amount of rust through, but it still needed to be properly repaired:





I cut out the rusted areas and installed new patch panels:



Once welded in, I leveled the areas with body filler:



The area was primered then seam sealed:



And when set up I painted the floor of the cowl plus the underside of the cover:





Then the cowl cover was welded back on by filling in the 166 spot welded holes:



The roof was taken to bare metal:



Did some repairs, then primered it:



Next up was stripping the quarter panels and making some repairs.  Besides a few dents and a couple of small areas of rust, the fenders were very sound:





In anticipation of wanting to install 28x10.5 race slicks, I needed to open up the wheel opening 1" at the front (which conveniently removed all the rust on the driver's side and most of it on the passenger's side):





Once the section was removed, I used 3/16" welding rod to form the new opening.  I then tacked the inner and outer panel to it (opposite side being shown) and welded it solid once I was satisfied:





The repaired areas where then filled and sanded:





Then primered (with only a 25" tire being shown installed):





Stripped the trunk lid and repaired any damage:



Primered:



« Last Edit: January 24, 2013, 07:47:50 am by Joel5.0 » Logged

Dennis

65' Stang, 434W NA, Victor Heads, Super Vic Intake, 11:1, Braswell Carb, Bullet SR Cam, G101A 4-Speed, 4:56 rear, 93 Octane Pump Gas  9.82@138.00
dennis112
Adv_SBFTechie
Big Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2345


Location: Amish Wonderland of Central Pa.

« Reply #1 on: April 29, 2011, 07:50:31 pm »

At then end of January my brother called to tell me that his lift was open for a couple of weeks so I loaded the GT on to the trailer (just hours after a winter storm hit):



Once there I removed the rear suspension in anticipation of installing the Crites leaf spring relocation kit:



I modified the Crites front hangers to better fit my Caltracs.  Then I notched the front of the frame to install the hangers:





I also used 1/8" steel to notch the frame, which was also needed for tire clearance:





Overall I gained 2 7/8" of additional wheel/tire clearance with the spring and frame relocation.

Then I cut out the inner wheel wells and moved them inboard 3".  Then a 3" wide strip of sheet metal was added to connect the inner wheel wells to the outer:









The vertical trunk lid supports were reattached to the relocated inner wheel wells:







And the wheel wells were filled and primered:









Interior shot:



Crites rear spring support:



Test of 10" wide rims:



The car was then trailered home where the rear was removed again and sent to the axle shop to be narrowed 1 1/4":



The axles were also shortened:



The rear was reinstalled with the 28x10.5 racing slicks on the 10" rims:











The slicks are tucked in nice enough that they could pass a PA inspection.

Logged

Dennis

65' Stang, 434W NA, Victor Heads, Super Vic Intake, 11:1, Braswell Carb, Bullet SR Cam, G101A 4-Speed, 4:56 rear, 93 Octane Pump Gas  9.82@138.00
69 Merc
The Ricer King
Adv_SBFTechie
Big Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 13794


Location: OC, CA

« Reply #2 on: April 29, 2011, 09:41:58 pm »

I like -- a LOT!

Our hobby is soooooo cool.    Thanx!


I'm glad that you didn't get hurt more when your tire let go over 90mph!    Amen!
Logged

Robert's 1969 Mercury Montego (FordStrokers 408W, QFT 850cfm RQ-AN, Super Victor, 1" aluminum open spacer, CamMotion HR .624"/.609" 251*/256* 108* LSA, 1-3/4"x3-1/2" headers, Dynomax Ultra #17224 mufflers, C6/4R100 trans, 8"/9" 5500 converter, Broader Performance manual V/B, 9" 4.56 Detroit Truetrac, Hoosier Pro Street 31x12.5R15 on 10" rims)

The Merc started here = http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,27178.0.html  Now = http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,34648.0.html

Thanks to Jim "Woody" and Nicole Woods @ FordStrokers 408W, Westminster Performance Transmission (W.P.T.) transmissions, TCS Performance converters, Broader Performance valvebodies and last but not least a BIG thanks (always) to my friends here and abroad in the World!
flatheadpopup
4 Banger
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 44


Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado

« Reply #3 on: April 30, 2011, 06:47:56 am »

Nice build you've got going on there.  I really like your mods to allow for the slicks!  I'll be watching your progress on this for sure.
Logged

65 Mustang
363, Vic Jr heads, AOD, Currie 9
dennis112
Adv_SBFTechie
Big Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2345


Location: Amish Wonderland of Central Pa.

« Reply #4 on: April 30, 2011, 07:14:45 pm »

I like -- a LOT!

Our hobby is soooooo cool.    Thanx!


I'm glad that you didn't get hurt more when your tire let go over 90mph!    Amen!

Thanks Merc. 

It was a freaky thing.  First run of the day and near the 8th I heard bam, bam, bam and though maybe I blew the motor.  Drove to the pits and rev'd the motor and heard nothing abnormal.  Then I put the car on the trailer and slowly walked around it scratching my head until I saw this:





Steel belt separated from the tire, similar to a recap but the remaining carcus held air until shortly after the car was loaded on the trainer.  The tread banged the top of the fender up, the rear of the fender back and the front of the fender forward-breaking the headlight from the rear. Don't know the exact cause of destruction as the tire only had maybe 3000 miles on it.  Perhaps just a bad tire (not a common brand name.)

Not too exciting, but here is a video of the near fatal run:



My buddy was in the other lane and he was wondering what the heck I was throwing at him. LOL

Nice build you've got going on there.  I really like your mods to allow for the slicks!  I'll be watching your progress on this for sure.

Thank you.  Body work isn't the most exciting part of owning a classic, but the finished product should be well worth all the effort I will have in it.
Logged

Dennis

65' Stang, 434W NA, Victor Heads, Super Vic Intake, 11:1, Braswell Carb, Bullet SR Cam, G101A 4-Speed, 4:56 rear, 93 Octane Pump Gas  9.82@138.00
Blue Oval
Stroked Small Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 418


Location: Australia

« Reply #5 on: April 30, 2011, 07:45:57 pm »


  I hope all went well with the surgery and you're back to beating panels soon !
  Thanks for posting your progress on this.
  You sure don't mind a challenge !
  I've enjoyed progressively taking on more and more challenging jobs on my car but am not sure I'm    ready for the cowl repair yet !
  That's some serious surgery there.
  I guess panel work is a skill best acquired over many years.

 Do you need any special engineering approval to run on the street for the leaf spring relocation and the 
 wheel tubs ? We do over here.
 
 Also I wonder does the removal of the wheel arch lip at the front of the rear wheel well open the rear 1/4
 panel to more rippling ?

 You're doing an incredible job there and  credit to you for building and driving your car.
 There's always gotta be more satisfaction in that.   
Logged

347 windsor, AFR 185,Vic Jr,Comp Cams Hyd Roller cam,780 Prosystems carb ,1 5/8" extractors, 4500 stall,4.11:1 Tru Trac. Chassis dyno 370 hp  Best 1/4 mile 11.21 sec at 122.83 mph
Youtube 1 min in..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBI75-l9CQQ
In car video ...
http://s222.photobucket.com/albums/dd159/texasbluesdownunder/?action=view&current=3rdrun21stmay2011.mp4
dennis112
Adv_SBFTechie
Big Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2345


Location: Amish Wonderland of Central Pa.

« Reply #6 on: April 30, 2011, 07:48:01 pm »

Next up it was time to repair some rust that I had around the rear window.  At first I tried to braze it but the panel was under to much stress and wanted to crack.  I decided that it would be better to replace the rear window panel and ordered a skin from a local Mustang parts dealer. I then cut out most of the original panel:



Used a flanging tool to better mate the old and new panel:



Then welded the skin in place:



Then the whole panel was skim coated with body filler and then primered:





Next up was the tail light panel.  It had been hammered on so much in the past, that I decided it was also better to replace it.  I ordered one made on the original Ford tooling and then cut out the old one:





Tacked the new one in place:



Installed the new valance and closed the trunk lid to ensure the panel was installed properly:



Then finish welded the panel and primered it inside and out:





With the rear of the car being pretty much in shape, it was time to move on to the doors.  This is where I had the most rust damage.  I considered the doors salvageable, so went about repairing both of them. First I stripped all the paint off them:



And then removed them for welding.  I cut out the rust and then rebuilt the inner door frame with several pieces of metal:





I also had some rust on the outside of the doors.  It was also cut out and new metal was butt welded in place:







Once I was satisfied with both doors, they were primered and seam sealed both inside the frame and on the exterior:



Then they were reinstalled on the car to complete the exterior straightening. At the same time the fenders were installed to verify the fit:





Once fitted, the fenders were removed to do some final detail work on the doors:





Body filler was added to the front of both doors to improve the contour of were they met the new fenders.

Primered:







Since the fenders were new, I pre-drilled the holes needed for the emblems using a template:





Fenders were then reinstalled on the car to verify fit:







Logged

Dennis

65' Stang, 434W NA, Victor Heads, Super Vic Intake, 11:1, Braswell Carb, Bullet SR Cam, G101A 4-Speed, 4:56 rear, 93 Octane Pump Gas  9.82@138.00
Blue Oval
Stroked Small Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 418


Location: Australia

« Reply #7 on: April 30, 2011, 08:04:48 pm »


 Will you paint the top coats at home ? What type of paint will you use ? 2 pack or acrylic ?
 I guess you need the weather to warm up first ?

 With the amount of work and modifications you are doing I can't see you stopping at 11.0 seconds 1/4 mile.
 Is there a final goal there ? Or is that a moving target ?  Grin
Logged

347 windsor, AFR 185,Vic Jr,Comp Cams Hyd Roller cam,780 Prosystems carb ,1 5/8" extractors, 4500 stall,4.11:1 Tru Trac. Chassis dyno 370 hp  Best 1/4 mile 11.21 sec at 122.83 mph
Youtube 1 min in..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBI75-l9CQQ
In car video ...
http://s222.photobucket.com/albums/dd159/texasbluesdownunder/?action=view&current=3rdrun21stmay2011.mp4
289nate
"IL BUONO"
Global Moderator
Big Block
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 11462


Location: Los Angeles

« Reply #8 on: April 30, 2011, 08:30:10 pm »

GREAT JOB!!!   I'm jealous. Grin
Logged

\'65 fastback pump gas 289, 4.56 gears, and faceplated T5.  11.123 at 122.4
gtvert90
Adv_SBFTechie
Big Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6079


Location: Belvidere, IL

« Reply #9 on: April 30, 2011, 08:39:46 pm »

Looks good 
Logged

Phil.
8950lx
Big Block
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1251

Location: Louisville, KY

« Reply #10 on: April 30, 2011, 08:58:48 pm »

WOW! I wish I could do that. Seriously, great job!
Logged

1988 Mustang LX Coupe former 4 banger:

306 CID, F303, 70mm TB, 76mm C&L MAF,  Comp Cams Box upper and Cobra lower, 24# injectors, Mac 1 5/8" Shorty Headers, 2.5" H pipe, Spin-Tech Pro Streets(dumps), 3.73 Gears, Cobra front brakes with '95 GT lower control arms, '95 GT rear disc brakes.
jr99svt
Big Block
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 795


Location: Altoona PA

« Reply #11 on: April 30, 2011, 09:15:16 pm »

Wow you weren't kidding when you said you had alot of work to do. Looks Great! Drool
Logged

1999 Mustang Cobra Convertible.... Just bolt ons  Grin
1995 Mustang Coupe 418 Carbed Stroker in progress
mighty mouse
"Prom King Mista Nathan Moonen"
Administrator
Big Block
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 12780


Location: Decorah, Iowa
I'll be the Judge of that


« Reply #12 on: April 30, 2011, 11:01:13 pm »

Great thread.  I wish more members would take the time to photograph and post pics of their buids etc...
Logged

1986 Mustang GT Convertible
Suspension and Differential by Team Z Motorsports
9.5 Deck Forged Stroker Shortblock by FordStrokers
Trick Flow High Ports and Super Vic EFI intake by Duane Busch

I'd rather be a fool who is loyal to his friends than a POS that jumps ship to save face. We were wrong in the end, but nobody can ever call us disloyal. I can live with that.
David Claflin
Adv_SBFTechie
Big Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 7896


Location: Redneck Riviera (Ft Walton Beach Florida)

« Reply #13 on: April 30, 2011, 11:10:00 pm »

Nice work!
Logged

1990 Red LX, 306, 80MM, ported gt40's, ported explorer upper accufab longtubes, 3" exhaust, 4.30's, 336/331
1985 LTD LX 347, 205 11R's, TFS-R, 90MMTB, MAC 1 3/4" longtubes, 4R70W, mach 1 brakes
1988 GT long term project
dennis112
Adv_SBFTechie
Big Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2345


Location: Amish Wonderland of Central Pa.

« Reply #14 on: May 01, 2011, 08:01:42 am »


I hope all went well with the surgery and you're back to beating panels soon !

Do you need any special engineering approval to run on the street for the leaf spring relocation and the wheel tubs ? We do over here.
 
Also I wonder does the removal of the wheel arch lip at the front of the rear wheel well open the rear 1/4 panel to more rippling ?

 You're doing an incredible job there and  credit to you for building and driving your car.
 

Thanks Ron.  

Surgery went better than expected and I am getting around well.  Because I am one of those people who can never sit still I hobble on crutches across the yard to the garage and am getting into little sit down projects.  Every little bit helps!  The wife just laughs at me, but she understands.

As far as engineering approval, none should be needed here in this state for such a little project.  Even if there was a problem, there are ways (some legal) to get around it.  My brother has a street/strip twin turbo 67' Camaro with an up to 8.5 second cage, full aluminimum wheel tubs, plus back halved with a 4 link and it was passed by one of our regional "advanced" inspection stations.  It meets all the PA criteria of a modified vehicle and is street legal.


 Will you paint the top coats at home ? What type of paint will you use ? 2 pack or acrylic ?
 I guess you need the weather to warm up first ?

 With the amount of work and modifications you are doing I can't see you stopping at 11.0 seconds 1/4 mile.
 Is there a final goal there ? Or is that a moving target ?  Grin

The car will be painted at home and because it will continue to see lots of drag strip duty, single stage acrylic enamel will be used since it is easier to repair.  Although I absolutely love BC/CC, it is not ideal for me in this case.  It is not a show car.  It will be used and abused.   Naughty

Final paint will come in a month or so.  My methods have me spot painting so I can install the headliner, glass and fenders first.  Then the exterior will get painted all at once.  So far we've had very few good painting days this spring.

Mechanically, the goal of the car is to try to go faster every year so I would say it is a moving target.  In the back of my mind, a dart based big bore 427 would fit the bill. Reality tells me to keep messing with what I have until the rest of the car is ready to take that big plunge.  Doing the mini tub to fit the 28x10.5" slicks for better starting line traction is part of that process, as is a future gear swap using "good" parts. 
Logged

Dennis

65' Stang, 434W NA, Victor Heads, Super Vic Intake, 11:1, Braswell Carb, Bullet SR Cam, G101A 4-Speed, 4:56 rear, 93 Octane Pump Gas  9.82@138.00
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 74 Go Up Print 
« previous next »
Jump to:  



Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines



408 Stroker