nitrous noob questions

[Guest]

[1988montecarloss]

ill be alright using it on my 302 even though on jegs it says for 350ci or bigger engines?

Its fine

if i buy the nitrous kit, purge kit and bottle heater what else will i have to buy?

That pretty well covers the basic needs

2 regulators to put after the regulator already on the car?

Its actually 2 regulators to put before the return unit. You then use the return regulator to control the line pressure feeding the other two.

and are there any diagrams of how everything has to be plumbed? never having done this before makes it somewhat intimidating

The link from March 3rd covers most of it. The nitrous side is straight forward.

i have some pics of the reg setup and fuel line setup on the car currently that i could post up if that would help too

That would be helpful.

here are some pics of the fuel setup, the line pointed at the firewall goes to the fuel pressure gauge, the one pointing towards the front of the car goes to the carb and the one pointing down goes to the fuel tank.

couldnt i just set this regulator higher than the other two need to be, like 15psi, and then put the other two  down the line from it to the pressure they need to be at?

[juiced coupe]

You need to check under your car and verify just what you have going on. That regulator is lined up as a dead head unit. Verify your fuel pump and LUK.

[1988montecarloss]

You need to check under your car and verify just what you have going on. That regulator is lined up as a dead head unit. Verify your fuel pump and LUK.

LUK?

[fast88]

LUK = Let Us Know

[1988montecarloss]

what would be the best possible fuel setup? like what pump, regulator fuel line setup etc.

[juiced coupe]

what would be the best possible fuel setup? like what pump, regulator fuel line setup etc.

There's a lot of steps between getting by and best possible. I like to stay above just getting by, but best possible is massive overkill for a combo like yours.

For a mild combo like yours, something along the lines of a pump in the 110-150 gph range, 2 regulators (for a dead head, 3 for a return style), -8 (1/2") primary line, and a sumped tank will do good. Don't forget things like free flowing filters and trying to limit the number of machined angle fittings to keep the flow up.

[1988montecarloss]

what would be the best possible fuel setup? like what pump, regulator fuel line setup etc.

There's a lot of steps between getting by and best possible. I like to stay above just getting by, but best possible is massive overkill for a combo like yours.

For a mild combo like yours, something along the lines of a pump in the 110-150 gph range, 2 regulators (for a dead head, 3 for a return style), -8 (1/2") primary line, and a sumped tank will do good. Don't forget things like free flowing filters and trying to limit the number of machined angle fittings to keep the flow up.

so if i do have a walbro 255lph will that be big enough? and how would i set up the regulators using just two of them?

[juiced coupe]

so if i do have a walbro 255lph will that be big enough?

First, find out what the Hell you have in there. Not if.

That regulator setup you have there is a dead head design. I can't even imagine it remotely working right with that pump without some kind of return or bleed. I have seen people try it and it never works good.

and how would i set up the regulators using just two of them?

To use a return setup with nitrous requires 3 regulators. One (return style) to control the line pressure at a higher set point, then two dead head units to control the pressure to the carb and nitrous system. As I said before, I'm still not a fan of this setup.

Even with a mild hit, trying to cheap out on the fuel system is a good way to trash a engine when using nitrous.

Also, you need to do something about that cobbled together mess of fuel lines. All of those splices, pieces of rubber hose, and that glass fuel filter look like a fire waiting to happen.

[1988montecarloss]

so if i do have a walbro 255lph will that be big enough?

First, find out what the Hell you have in there. Not if.

That regulator setup you have there is a dead head design. I can't even imagine it remotely working right with that pump without some kind of return or bleed. I have seen people try it and it never works good.

and how would i set up the regulators using just two of them?

To use a return setup with nitrous requires 3 regulators. One (return style) to control the line pressure at a higher set point, then two dead head units to control the pressure to the carb and nitrous system. As I said before, I'm still not a fan of this setup.

Even with a mild hit, trying to cheap out on the fuel system is a good way to trash a engine when using nitrous.

Also, you need to do something about that cobbled together mess of fuel lines. All of those splices, pieces of rubber hose, and that glass fuel filter look like a fire waiting to happen.

so i should buy a return style regulator and then buy another one like i already have and use those two as deadhead units?

what would you recommend i use as a fuel setup?

[juiced coupe]

First, find out what the Hell you have in there. Not if.

 

We can talk "if" all day long, it means nothing.

Judging by what you have said and what I see in the pics, someone has done a good job of hacking up the fuel system on that car.

what would you recommend i use as a fuel setup?

Get some solid details, then we can work from there.

From what I see in those pics, I would rip it all out and make a fresh start. But thats just me.

[1988montecarloss]

alright, lets say i totally redo the fuel system and buy a better fuel pump that can flow enough (110-150gph) and run a return style system like you recommend. what regulators do i use and how do i set them up? all this plumbing has me a bit confused. and what kind of regulators are ones for a return style system? all the ones im finding are for deadhead setups. or do you just use those set up differently for a return system?

[juiced coupe]

Alright, lets break this down.

what kind of regulators are ones for a return style system? all the ones im finding are for deadhead setups. or do you just use those set up differently for a return system?

There are many regulators designed for return use, and they do plumb differently than a dead head unit. While a basic Holley 803 can be plumbed to work as a return regulator, it isn't designed for that service and wouldn't provide a very good flow rate when setup like that. Here is a list of several good return regulators:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-4309/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEI-13301/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/QFT-30-900/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/QFT-30-1900/

The Mallory 4309 is the most commonly seen. Its a good, reliable regulator at a fair price.

run a return style system. what regulators do i use and how do i set them up? all this plumbing has me a bit confused. and what kind of regulators are ones for a return style system?

http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,25143.0.html

This uses a Mallory 4309 and two Holley 803s. The 4309 is after the other two regulators. A return regulator works by controlling the pressure before it, while a dead head unit controls the pressure after it. By putting the 4309 at the end of the line, it can be used to control the line pressure before it, which the other two regulators are feeding from.

alright, lets say i totally redo the fuel system and buy a better fuel pump that can flow enough (110-150gph) and run a return style system like you recommend.

If you are going to re-plumb, I don't suggest doing a return setup. A pump designed for dead head service and two Holley 803 regulators works fine. Up to around 500 hp, a basic Holley Blue pump with two regulators will work.

If you still decide to go the return route, pick a pump on the outer range of those flow rates (maybe more). The bypass will use up some of the pump's flow capacity.

My car uses a basic Aeromotive 150 pump and two Holley 803 regulators, and has proven to be dead reliable.

Also, don't skimp on the plumbing. Minimum of -8 (1/2") up to the regulators. You can spend a few extra $$ on -10 (5/8") if you want to leave some room for future upgrades.

[1988montecarloss]

Alright, lets break this down.

what kind of regulators are ones for a return style system? all the ones im finding are for deadhead setups. or do you just use those set up differently for a return system?

There are many regulators designed for return use, and they do plumb differently than a dead head unit. While a basic Holley 803 can be plumbed to work as a return regulator, it isn't designed for that service and wouldn't provide a very good flow rate when setup like that. Here is a list of several good return regulators:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-4309/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEI-13301/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/QFT-30-900/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/QFT-30-1900/

The Mallory 4309 is the most commonly seen. Its a good, reliable regulator at a fair price.

run a return style system. what regulators do i use and how do i set them up? all this plumbing has me a bit confused. and what kind of regulators are ones for a return style system?

http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,25143.0.html

This uses a Mallory 4309 and two Holley 803s. The 4309 is after the other two regulators. A return regulator works by controlling the pressure before it, while a dead head unit controls the pressure after it. By putting the 4309 at the end of the line, it can be used to control the line pressure before it, which the other two regulators are feeding from.

alright, lets say i totally redo the fuel system and buy a better fuel pump that can flow enough (110-150gph) and run a return style system like you recommend.

If you are going to re-plumb, I don't suggest doing a return setup. A pump designed for dead head service and two Holley 803 regulators works fine. Up to around 500 hp, a basic Holley Blue pump with two regulators will work.

If you still decide to go the return route, pick a pump on the outer range of those flow rates (maybe more). The bypass will use up some of the pump's flow capacity.

My car uses a basic Aeromotive 150 pump and two Holley 803 regulators, and has proven to be dead reliable.

Also, don't skimp on the plumbing. Minimum of -8 (1/2") up to the regulators. You can spend a few extra $$ on -10 (5/8") if you want to leave some room for future upgrades.

alright, so if i just buy a holley blue pump and two 803 regs and 1/2" line i should be all set to redo the fuel system. no sumping the tank or anything like that?

[juiced coupe]

I would still sump the tank. You could use one of those pickup tubes that replaces the factory fuel pump assembly, but they have their own problems.

Electric pumps don't do very good at sucking fuel, and those pickup tubes have a fair amount of vertical travel. It is necessary to keep the tank above half just to keep the pump working okay. Even then, the pump will not be at full capacity.

With a sump, the pump will actually have head pressure on it instead of having to suck the fuel.

[1988montecarloss]

so something like this?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CEE-4041/?rtype=10
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-TANKKIT3/

could i just use rubber line so im not spending 100$ on braided line?

by the time this is all said and done im gonna have as much into the fuel system as i have into the rest of the car  

EDIT: so if i buy these, i should be all set since my car already has an 803 regulator on it that i can use, correct?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-TANKKIT3/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-12-802-1/?rtype=10