TFI PIP Sensor Replacement Procedure

[Guest]

[Joel5.0]

TFI PIP Sensor Replacement Procedure

First of all..... I would like to start with a little video clip I made for the Pre-Removal indexing of the distributor and the indexing/installation after the PIP sensor was replaced on the bench.
 

<a href="http://sbftech.com/vids/mcmp_0.8.swf?fpFileURL=http://sbftech.com/vids/TFI_PIP.flv&amp;fpPreviewImageURL=http://sbftech.com/vids/SBF_log1.JPG&amp;colorScheme=ff0000&amp;cpBackgroundColor=ffff00&amp;cpHidePanel=mouseout&amp;cpHideDelay=.5&amp;fpButtonSize=63x63" target="_blank">http://sbftech.com/vids/mcmp_0.8.swf?fpFileURL=http://sbftech.com/vids/TFI_PIP.flv&amp;fpPreviewImageURL=http://sbftech.com/vids/SBF_log1.JPG&amp;colorScheme=ff0000&amp;cpBackgroundColor=ffff00&amp;cpHidePanel=mouseout&amp;cpHideDelay=.5&amp;fpButtonSize=63x63</a>

That out of the way, let's start with the procedure:

TOOLS:

TFI DISTRIBUTOR REMOVAL/INSTALLATION:

• ¹/₂" drive ratchet + short extension + ¹⁵/₁₆" socket.
• ¹/₂" Combination wrench or Ford specific "U" ¹/₂" closed wrench.
• ³/₈" Drive ratchet + short extension + ⁵/₈" spark plug socket.
• Starter push-button switch.
• Timing Light

PIP SENSOR REMOVAL/INSTALLATION:

• Phillips Screwdriver
• ¹/₈" + ⁵/₃₂" Pin Punch Driver
• Hammer
• Power Steering Pulley Puller
• Chain Locking Pliers
• 5.5mm TFI Module Bolts Wrench
• Magnetic Base Tray (optional)
• ³/₈" Drive ratchet + ³/₄" or 19mm deep socket for the P/S Pulley Puller
• Carburetor Cleaner
• WD-40
• Dielectric Grease Compound
• White or Black Lithium Grease or Engine Oil

PIP SENSOR REMOVAL PROCEDURE:

• Set engine at compression TDC and remove distributor from engine. You saw the clip, so no excuses.
• Let's show the pictures of the PIP sensor removal/replacement procedure on the bench then.
• Remove ignition distributor cap extension using the phillips screwdriver.  .... no pic,

PIP SENSOR INSTALLATION PROCEDURE:

And now.... you are ready to install it back in the engine and index it.

[Joel5.0]

TFI IGNITION DISTRIBUTOR INDEXING PROCEDURE:

• Check the video clip in this thread and make sure you set crankshaft balancer position at the correct TDC mark, #1 cylinder in compression.
• If you have an aftermarket balancer, there are usually three (3) sets of timing marks/scales.

• In the case used, and due to the damage caused by a little engine damage, the correct scale to use was retouched with some white-out or liquid paper as shown below.

• Again, set it to TDC or 0° BTDC...... NOT the 10° BTDC line.
• Spray/Apply to distributor shaft, gear and 'O' ring with some lubricant like white lithium grease or engine oil. The picture below shows it with white lithium grease.

• Orient the distributor housing and the vanes rotor slightly offset in the CCW direct of the correct #1 position. When the distributor gear meshes with the camshaft gear, it will position itself in the correct direction.
• The following three pictures show the position previous to be dropped in and after the distributor is seated all the way in.

• Verify rotor orientation and use the reference points mentioned/shown. The case shown below was the original way it was set. It was 1-tooth-off in the advanced position. It is shown for illustration purposes.

• Align the OEM distributor housing/block marks at the bottom of the distributor base (as shown in the pic below), and you should be very close to the OEM 10° BTDC initial timing spec.
• If your distributor is an aftermarket, the above does not apply. Do check the TFI module connector orientation though.

• Install distributor cap, verify correct firing order, and you are now ready to start the engine and set base timing.

[Joel5.0]

SN95 distributor housing and rotor indexing reference pictures.

[roh92cp]

Joel5.0 I have read over this Dist indexing procedure for a Fox and have found the video and then later the in this thread the produre with pictures seem to show conflicting images of the correct position of the Dist and rotor when at #1 TDC. In the video you relate the rotor to the pass stud on lower intake when dist is fully seated. And in your pictures in this thread the rotor with dist fully seated  you show with a red arrow pointing between the 2 studs on the lower intake. Which illustration is correct.  It also seems the video and then pictures illustration that conflict seem to be from the same engine. Can you help identify whcih one is correct and or did I miss something.   

[Joel5.0]

Between the two studs or.......



... is the correct one. I left the others on purpose b/c couldn't edit the video and as an example as mentioned at http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,28934.msg304156.html#msg304156

[roh92cp]

Thanks Joel5.0. I had it stabbed wrong the first time seated it was pointing at the pass side stud on the lower intake, that may have been 1or 2 teeth off. I did set the timing to 10* so it shouldn't have made any difference correct. However it didn't run right at WOT it cut out hard like I was hitting the rev limiter at around 4k, that went away when I restabbed the dist as you illustrated. Can you make sense of that.   

[brianstang1]

I have always stabbed it at 10btdc and had the rotor aligned with #1 wire

[Paul78zephyr]

This is a very good guide to PIP module replacement. I would like to point out two things:

1. Getting the gear roll pin hole perfectly aligned with the hole in the shaft so that the roll pin can be re-installed can be difficult due to the press fit nature of the gear/shaft. Also the hole thru the gear/shaft is not perfectly thru the center so it is important the match mark both pieces so that they are re-installed in the same orientation.

2. I would not use dielectric grease between the TFI module and the distributor housing. Heat transfer out of the TFI module is critical. Silicone dielectric grease is an electrical insulator and is also a thermal insulator. They make specific thermal/heat transfer grease for that application.

Thanks
Paul

[FORD93GTFREAK]

My 1993 Frankinstang Gt Distributor, PIP sensor(Fords Cam Sensor), TFI removal..

taking a long look, before I start


Removed the Distributor and now getting ready to remove the gear(I don't have a puller) so I had to come up with some improvising, in order to pull the gear off. It worked, however, if I had the gear puller, I would have used it.


Just a look inside...I can say when I get some cash, I'll purchase a new Dizzy, this one is crap and showes that many hands over the years have been messing with it. I hope The cleaning and parts replacement will hold me until I get a new unmolested one.




I need to mention...don't forget to install a new gasket/O-ring...not sure which one it's called, because mine is dried out from heat and broke removing it.


i'm eating lunch now and after that, i'm back to cleaning and reassembly

[FORD93GTFREAK]

After lunch...



New O-ring




Installed! and fired right up!!

thanks for a GREAT WRITEUP!!

now..I will post what happened when I went for a drive, in my other thread
http://sbftech.com/index.php?topic=38004.new;topicseen#new

[eboost]

The pictures in this thread are not loading for some reason. Can anyone else see them?

[FORD93GTFREAK]

The pictures in this thread are not loading for some reason. Can anyone else see them?

I can't see them either, must be a software loading issue

[Joel5.0]

I will be fixing this problem by the end of next week. There seems to be a problem with the pictures location.

[eboost]

I will be fixing this problem by the end of next week. There seems to be a problem with the pictures location.

Thank you Sir!

Any chance I could get some info on where to buy the genuine FORD PIP sensor? Perhaps a part number too?

Ive pulled the gear off my 351 MSD TFI Distributor to put a steel gear on and wanted to change out the sensor while it was in bits.

I found an article which said the MSD sensor wheels are excessively out of spec. It says the larger fingers should measure 0.398-0.400''. Im not sure how much this effects the performance but a few of mine measured 0.402''.

Im wondering if the OEM wheel is any better and if so, can it be used on the MSD distributor?

The article is here:
http://www.promracing.com/tfi-distributor-shutter-wheel-182.html

I'm wondering if they are just marketing they're product?