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| | |-+ Oil Pressure or Oil Flow - which is more important?
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Author Topic: Oil Pressure or Oil Flow - which is more important?  (Read 6597 times)
OVERKILL
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« Reply #60 on: December 13, 2010, 08:59:43 pm »

read the linky from BITOG
and all the way at the end the OP writes this
Quote
If you have absorbed and digested the information here you should be able to pick out the proper operating oil grade for your car, be it a 30, 40, 50 or even 20 grade oil. I have always used oils that were a grade thinner than recommended even though many use a grade thicker than recommended. I showed evidence that the starting grade should always be 0 or 5 (0W-XX or 5W-XX for thicker oils). If you want the best protection and highest output from your motor use a synthetic based oil.

I have been banned multiple times from BITOG for many reasons, same reasons JAY would get banned from sites.

They have Mods that cant answer questions so they silence you instead.

I dont even bother with BITOG anymore, the user name there BILLinUTAH is the MOD that cant answer questions with any personal experience so he closes the door and end of discussion.

Yet he can tell me that what I am doing is all wrong, but never tried it himself...


Javier

LMAO! Yes, Bill can be quite "overbearing".
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Car: 2001 BMW M5 (stock)
Engine: Stock 338,000Km SB, Weiand X-Celerator, Holley HP750, Cobra 1.7RR's, Camshaft Innovations Custom Grind. Destination to be decided.
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Jay Allen: I may not know it all, but I forgot more in the last 7 hours than you'll ever know.
David Claflin
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« Reply #61 on: December 16, 2010, 12:26:09 pm »

It is very good. If you follow the oil path, you will notice that opening this passage will increase flow to the entire engine.

I couldn't remember where I seen this little trick (years ago), but stumbled on this in the tech section. Third pic down.

http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,10008.0.html
I wonder why they only drilled holes in the bearing for the one hole? I noticed on the one block I have on the stand that the block itself actually has some erosion between the two holes right where the main bearing sets into the block.
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1990 Red LX, 306, 75MM, ported gt40's, Holley SMII, accufab longtubes, 3" exhaust, 4.10's
1985 LTD LX 302, ported TW's, XE-264 cam, ported Holley SMII, 75MM-R TB, accufab 1 3/4" longtubes, 4R70W, mach 1 brakes
1988 GT long term project
juiced coupe
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« Reply #62 on: December 16, 2010, 07:27:39 pm »

I wonder why they only drilled holes in the bearing for the one hole?

The other hole feeds the valvetrain. In most people opinion, that area is already over-oiled. Some people install flow restrictors there.
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Just a 12 second car with a 11 second engine.....that runs 10s
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

Quote from: Monte Smith
Bottom line, if it was the hot ticket, the fast guys would do it.............they don't

You might need some Titanium rods and a flow bench!  LMAO on floor
David Claflin
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« Reply #63 on: December 17, 2010, 07:57:18 am »

The other hole feeds the valvetrain. In most people opinion, that area is already over-oiled. Some people install flow restrictors there.
OK, thanks, that makes sense as it seemed that the small hole in the bearing acted as a restrictor and kept more oil on the crank.
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1990 Red LX, 306, 75MM, ported gt40's, Holley SMII, accufab longtubes, 3" exhaust, 4.10's
1985 LTD LX 302, ported TW's, XE-264 cam, ported Holley SMII, 75MM-R TB, accufab 1 3/4" longtubes, 4R70W, mach 1 brakes
1988 GT long term project
cheese_05_70
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« Reply #64 on: December 17, 2010, 08:41:49 am »

Did you do your bearings david? I dont like using a drill bit I'm going to buy a cuttrer and do it.
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88 4 cyl converted to 306, 9:1 compression, cleaned up Windsor sr heads 64cc chamber, nx274 cam installed on 109cl, comp 851 lifters, ultra gold roller rockers, ported typhoon intake, 75mm Tb, 30lb injectors, 80mm pro m maf, hooker shorty 1.625 headers, 2.5 h pipe into 2.5 flowmasters out the back, t5 trans, aluminum driveshaft, 8.8 3.73 gears, Subframes to be installed this weekend.
David Claflin
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« Reply #65 on: December 19, 2010, 06:21:43 pm »

The link has a larger pic
http://www.fairlanet.com/images/fordart/66289lube.jpg

And if you look where the oil makes about a 130 degree turn just below the right bolt on the thermostat housing I cut down that little ridge so it is a smoother transition. BTW, that is under the freeze plug at the rear of the block where the intake manifold typically covers it up.



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1990 Red LX, 306, 75MM, ported gt40's, Holley SMII, accufab longtubes, 3" exhaust, 4.10's
1985 LTD LX 302, ported TW's, XE-264 cam, ported Holley SMII, 75MM-R TB, accufab 1 3/4" longtubes, 4R70W, mach 1 brakes
1988 GT long term project
David Claflin
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« Reply #66 on: February 18, 2012, 08:48:53 am »

Also figured out a trick for drilling the bearings, will have pics tomorrow night of that.
What I used to do with this wasn't as good as what I do now with these bearings to increase the size of the hole. I used a multi-bit to drill the hole, and a carbide burr on a cordless drill to chamfer the hole.  The bearing is held in place with a bolt and washer on each side, this way works so well, and is so easy.


* IMG_0396.JPG (1919.92 KB, 4000x3000 - viewed 87 times.)

* IMG_0397.JPG (1938.6 KB, 4000x3000 - viewed 64 times.)
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1990 Red LX, 306, 75MM, ported gt40's, Holley SMII, accufab longtubes, 3" exhaust, 4.10's
1985 LTD LX 302, ported TW's, XE-264 cam, ported Holley SMII, 75MM-R TB, accufab 1 3/4" longtubes, 4R70W, mach 1 brakes
1988 GT long term project
David Claflin
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Location: Redneck Riviera (Ft Walton Beach Florida)

« Reply #67 on: February 18, 2012, 05:39:17 pm »

one more thing on this, the back shell of the bearings need to be deburred as well. I used a small round finishing file on the front and back as a final step.
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1990 Red LX, 306, 75MM, ported gt40's, Holley SMII, accufab longtubes, 3" exhaust, 4.10's
1985 LTD LX 302, ported TW's, XE-264 cam, ported Holley SMII, 75MM-R TB, accufab 1 3/4" longtubes, 4R70W, mach 1 brakes
1988 GT long term project
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