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Author Topic: Remove 5th Mod for T5  (Read 3258 times)
Antony Moore
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« on: August 07, 2010, 04:20:17 pm »

Anyone ever remove 5th from a T5? I'm not sure the best way to stabilize the 5th-reverse shifter rod without the 5th shifting fork being installed.
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rob342
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« Reply #1 on: August 31, 2010, 03:57:40 pm »

dumb question:

why?

secret desire to have 2 neutrals?
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1990 notch streetcar, 342, dart 195's, 30lb injectors, 70mm TB, trickflow intake, converted to t-5, 3.73 rear
88foxgt
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« Reply #2 on: August 31, 2010, 04:57:24 pm »

secret desire to have 2 neutrals?

lol  Spt at PC
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302 - AFR 165's - CI hydr Cam - TFS Track Heat - 24#ers - 75mm TB - Long Tubes, 3" Exhaust - Strange C-clip elems. & 4:30's strapped to an Auburn
Antony Moore
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« Reply #3 on: August 31, 2010, 05:45:34 pm »

Ever used 5th drag racing your T5?
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rob342
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« Reply #4 on: August 31, 2010, 08:59:27 pm »

not at the track,  :wonder:sometimes on the expressway.
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1990 notch streetcar, 342, dart 195's, 30lb injectors, 70mm TB, trickflow intake, converted to t-5, 3.73 rear
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The Ricer King
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« Reply #5 on: August 31, 2010, 09:20:01 pm »

Ever used 5th drag racing your T5?

 
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1969 Mercury Montego (FordStrokers 408W, QFT 850cfm RQ-AN, Super Victor, 2" aluminum open spacer, CamMotion HR .624/.609 251/256 108, mV/B C4, 5000 stall, 9" 4.56, M/T ET radial streets 315/60-15)

The Merc started here = http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,27178.0.html

Irwindale Speedway 1/8 mile (1st time at a track!) = 7.647 @ 90.78mph with a crappy 1.878 sixty foot (3850# race weight)

Present day Merc = http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,34648.0.html
fast88
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« Reply #6 on: August 31, 2010, 09:31:54 pm »

Its actually pretty common to remove 5th gear to reduce rotating wieght.

I have no idea HOW they do it....but thats the why.
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Antony Moore
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« Reply #7 on: August 31, 2010, 09:57:32 pm »

Thank you fast88.
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289nate
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« Reply #8 on: September 01, 2010, 01:43:41 am »

Anthony, are you stuck on the T5?  Reason I ask is because gear selection is a lot better with the Top Loader stuff from the little I've researched and have heard about.
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Antony Moore
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« Reply #9 on: September 01, 2010, 10:27:19 am »

No, I came across one fairly cheap and was thinking of using it in my stock car, minus 5th. I thought I would also remove 2nd. A t5 is 25lbs lighter than my cast iron Top Loader 3spd. The gears are on needle bearings on the main shaft the Top Loader is not. That being said, the T5 requires more effort to turn than my 3spd, not by much, but you can tell it. Remove 5th and say second and I think the T5 would have to turn easier, plus be even lighter. If I do, it will be a winter project.
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RunninHorse
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« Reply #10 on: September 01, 2010, 11:25:53 am »

Remove 2nd?  So you'd shift from 1st to 3rd to 4th?  I'd think the 1 to 3 shift would be slow because you'd be shifting down, right and up instead of just down.  Why not remove 4th and shift 1,2,3?   

This is the first I've heard of removing gears to lower the rotating weight.  Interesting.
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I'm Rob.  Working on my '93 coupe with a stock internal 302, 80mm MAF, 75mm TB, Victor 5.0, High Ports, 30# inj., B303, 1.6s, Tremec 3550-2, and 3.73s.  Stock tune.  Went 13.9 @ 109 on street tires.  Here's a link to my project.
Parts I'm selling: 
Hardened Push Rods - Trick Flow 6.2" .080 - $60
Misc. Fox Body Interior Pieces
Antony Moore
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« Reply #11 on: September 01, 2010, 04:29:56 pm »

Remove 2nd? Yes
So you'd shift from 1st to 3rd to 4th? No, it's called a pace lap or restart. You would use 1st to get around the pits and such and you would start in 3rd or 4th, depending.
Why not remove 4th and shift 1,2,3?  Whistling
This is the first I've heard of removing gears to lower the rotating weight.  It's quite common in "Stock" racing.
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RunninHorse
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« Reply #12 on: September 01, 2010, 04:37:21 pm »

Ok I understand now.  I must have missed that this was a "stock" racing application.  My mistake.
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I'm Rob.  Working on my '93 coupe with a stock internal 302, 80mm MAF, 75mm TB, Victor 5.0, High Ports, 30# inj., B303, 1.6s, Tremec 3550-2, and 3.73s.  Stock tune.  Went 13.9 @ 109 on street tires.  Here's a link to my project.
Parts I'm selling: 
Hardened Push Rods - Trick Flow 6.2" .080 - $60
Misc. Fox Body Interior Pieces
e3sean
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« Reply #13 on: September 17, 2010, 12:03:23 pm »

5TH GEAR REMOVAL IS VERY EASY.

TOOLS NEEDED:
-1/8" PUNCH
-HAMMER
-13MM WRENCH/SOCKET
-15MM WERNCH/SOCKET
-SNAP RING PLIERS
-RAZOR BLADE
-ULTRA GRAY RTV
-RUBBER MALLET


1.) PULL OFF SHIFTER (4X 13MM BOLTS)
2.) USE PUNCH TO DRIVE DOWN ROLL PIN ON THE SHIFTER BLOCK
3.) UNDO THE 6 15MM BOLTS HOLDING THE TAILSHAFT HOUSING ON.
4.)USE THE RUBBER MALLET TO TAP THE TAILSHAFT HOUSING TO BREAK HE SEAL (U CAN ALSO USE A BIG FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER)
5.)PULL THE TAILSHAFT HOUSING OFF YOU MIGHT HAVE TO TAP THE SHIFT BLOCK BACK AS WELL TO SLIDE IT OFF.
6.) KNOCK OUT THE ROLL PIN HOLDING THE 5TH GEAR SLIDER FORK.
7.) USE THE SNAP RING PLIERS TO PULL THE RING OFF THE 5TH GEAR HUB ASSYMBOLY
8.)PULL THE FORK OFF THE SHAFT WITH THE SLIDER HUB (YOU CAN TAP THE SHAFT IN AND PULL THE FORK TO MAKE IT EASIER.)
9.) PULL THE 5TH GEAR OFF. (YOU MAY HAVE TO USE A SCREWDRIVER IF THE SLIDER HUB DID NOT SLIDE OFF.)
10.) CLEAN THE SILICONE OFF THE CASE AND HOUSING
11.)REINSTALL THE TAILSHAFT HOUSING (USING RTV)
12.)PUT THE BALL CHECK IN THE BOTTOM MIDDLE HOLE, PUT THE TRANSMISSION IN 4TH GEAR(PUSHED FORWARD),HOLD THE SPRING IN THE SHIFTER BLOCK AND PUT IT ON TOP OF THE BALL CHECK, THEN YOU CAN USE THE HAMMER TO TAP THE BLOCK FORWARD BACK ON TO THE SHAFT. LINE THE HOLE UP AND REINSTALL THE BALL CHECK REINSTALL SHIFTER USING RTV AND YOUR DONE.


IF YOU WISH TO TAKE OUT THE DRIVEN GEAR AS WELL THAT BECOMES A LITTLE MORE INVOLVED. BUT I CAN EXPLAIN IF NEEDED. MAYBE MAKE A VIDEO IN THE FUTURE.
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USAF Luke AFB AZ E-5
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Antony Moore
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« Reply #14 on: September 19, 2010, 10:01:07 am »

So, you don't do anything to the 5th/Reverse shifter rod? I'm afraid that it will eventually vibrate towards the tail shaft and rotate so that the reverse/ball pin will hang.
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