Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
January 23, 2018, 01:11:28 pm

Login with username, password and session length
Director PLEASE!!!!
Add your location information to your personal profile. Thanx!
434546 Posts in 37193 Topics by 9529 Members
Latest Member: notchbackjoe
Search: Advanced search
Advertiser Inquiries
+ SBFTECH.com Experienced Small Block Ford Tech
|-+ Membership Tech
| |-+ Projects Under Construction
| | |-+ my 1965 Falcon
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. « previous next »
Pages: 1 ... 13 14 [15] 16 Go Down Print
Author Topic: my 1965 Falcon  (Read 88604 times)
juiced coupe
Six figures worth of don't give a f*ck
Global Moderator
Big Block
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 8252


Location: Pascagoula, MS
The land mass between New Orleans and Mobile


« Reply #210 on: July 20, 2015, 02:36:36 pm »

The main body will come with new jets to start with. If you use the jetting from the 650, it will be very lean.

Wherever you were on squirters and pump cams should be a decent starting place. I'm not sure what pump cams you are using, but I personally avoid the pink cams that came on many Holleys. I've never seen them really work right on anything.
Logged

Doing more with less, or something like that.
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

Quote from: Monte Smith
Bottom line, if it was the hot ticket, the fast guys would do it.............they don't

You might need some Titanium rods and a flow bench!  LMAO on floor

I honestly don't get it.

I'm sweating, my heart is racing, my clutch foot is twichin', and my right arm punched the computer screen doing an involentary 2-3 shift while reading all that. 
the only Qualk
Stroked Small Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 427


Location: NW, Indiana

« Reply #211 on: July 20, 2015, 03:03:44 pm »

I had 72 primary jet 76 secondary jet.
Recently made the switch to orange cam hole 2 (went from the pink and def seems to help)
I believe I was at 31 shooter front and was going to the same in back.
I did not have a power valve in the back but I have I believe an 8.5 in front.

I can verify these when I get home as I have it written down in notebook.

Thanks for the response Juiced. I will leave the carb main body with the jet and squirter to see how the car responds.

Then I need to find the vibration source at higher speed. Definitely feel it in shaft/rearend. But angles were ok just in the garage but I think pinion is torquing up enough to throw angles off??
Logged

1965 Ford Falcon Sedan 302, 5 spd, 4.62 gear
street car
the only Qualk
Stroked Small Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 427


Location: NW, Indiana

« Reply #212 on: July 27, 2015, 11:01:57 am »

Update with pictures and video to come later.

Have a small hiccup on the primary side that I want to try going up in jet to see how it likes it.

As it  sits I started with
Primary side using 72 jet 8.5 power valve 31 squirter orange cam hole 2
Secondary 84 jet no provision for power valve 31 squirter orange cam hole 2

This ran quite rich and the smell of fuel fumes was very present but it was driveable kind of.

I changed the secondary to 80 jet and it ran better with far less fuel smell.
Then I went to 76 jet in primary and car really liked this aside from a small hiccup it revved nicely to I think 6000 rpm in first and second (just short blasts). Need further testing on this and hope to take the engine a bit higher.

I also put a 4 degree shim in the rear to angle the pinion down to account for the rotation and it seems like it has helped with the vibration at speed and even traction a little. Will need to confirm the at speed vibration is gone though.

The other advantage to this mainbody is that i can do air bleed changes should I choose and it is a very nice unit. Though the metering plate alignment dowels were not a good fit and one broke when attempting to put it together. Also the mainbody only uses the 4 corner bolts to hold the throttle blades in place it does not use the center two bolts.

I am very happy with the upgrade though.

https://youtu.be/a3o6ix3PBI8

Let me know if you want to see anything for those interested.


* 20150721_215246[1].jpg (2699.83 KB, 3264x2448 - viewed 176 times.)

* 20150721_220034[1].jpg (2345.57 KB, 3264x2448 - viewed 181 times.)
Logged

1965 Ford Falcon Sedan 302, 5 spd, 4.62 gear
street car
juiced coupe
Six figures worth of don't give a f*ck
Global Moderator
Big Block
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 8252


Location: Pascagoula, MS
The land mass between New Orleans and Mobile


« Reply #213 on: July 27, 2015, 12:31:10 pm »

I would add a secondary pump cam bracket with a idle adjustment on it. It doesn't seem like much, but being able to back down on the primary idle screw can do wonders.

And if you want, you can remove that small piece of linkage from the primary shaft. It no longer serves a purpose.
Logged

Doing more with less, or something like that.
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

Quote from: Monte Smith
Bottom line, if it was the hot ticket, the fast guys would do it.............they don't

You might need some Titanium rods and a flow bench!  LMAO on floor

I honestly don't get it.

I'm sweating, my heart is racing, my clutch foot is twichin', and my right arm punched the computer screen doing an involentary 2-3 shift while reading all that. 
the only Qualk
Stroked Small Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 427


Location: NW, Indiana

« Reply #214 on: August 06, 2015, 03:17:48 pm »

Well time for a bit of an update.
Falcon is getting too hot sitting in traffic. I hit 200+ then my lower radiator hose slipped off. I want to fix this and not worry about it.

I believe my changing from 76 to 74 primary jet was actually the wrong move and I am going to swap in 78 test it then I believe it should pull cleaner than it does now.

On hard braking the engine would die out and I believe it to be from the rear bowl being adjusted too high so I will be adjusting that.

I need to setup a rearend for my car and get rid of the minispool and used gearset as I believe those are the source of my vibration now. I installed 4 degree leaf spring shim that appears to have helped as it was 0* and the trans 2*. I may need 6* but will need to replace the ubolts no matter what I do.

I did drive to and from Joliet Route 66 raceway which is around 120 mi round trip which is the most driving I have done with my car since owning it. Though I have no fuel nor an idea of MPG so mostly a guessing game lol.

Also I forgot to take pictures in Joliet (went past the prison so I thought of The Blues Brothers) and forgot to register for the car show lol.

THanks for checking out my thread.
Logged

1965 Ford Falcon Sedan 302, 5 spd, 4.62 gear
street car
juiced coupe
Six figures worth of don't give a f*ck
Global Moderator
Big Block
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 8252


Location: Pascagoula, MS
The land mass between New Orleans and Mobile


« Reply #215 on: August 06, 2015, 03:46:21 pm »

On hard braking the engine would die out and I believe it to be from the rear bowl being adjusted too high so I will be adjusting that.

I have the little cheap screw in sight glass plugs in mine. I set them on the low side. Not actually in the sight glass, but just below it. If I shake my car a little, the fuel with splash up within view.

Falcon is getting too hot sitting in traffic. I hit 200+ then my lower radiator hose slipped off. I want to fix this and not worry about it.

I didn't look back, what does your cooling system consist of? Including any thermostats (size and type) or restriction plates. And when was the last time the cooling system was cleaned?
Logged

Doing more with less, or something like that.
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

Quote from: Monte Smith
Bottom line, if it was the hot ticket, the fast guys would do it.............they don't

You might need some Titanium rods and a flow bench!  LMAO on floor

I honestly don't get it.

I'm sweating, my heart is racing, my clutch foot is twichin', and my right arm punched the computer screen doing an involentary 2-3 shift while reading all that. 
the only Qualk
Stroked Small Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 427


Location: NW, Indiana

« Reply #216 on: August 07, 2015, 02:43:27 pm »

Juiced I currently have the following for the cooling system:
low profile pusher electric fan
pro form electric water pump
mr gasket 160* hiflow thermostat
Griffin Aluminum radiator double pass 1" tubes 22x19 (going from memory)
The air is not being forced through the radiator as I have around a 2 inch gap on either side of it at the moment.

No heater core connected.

I believe that covers everything. I have a replacement electric fan I am considering and possibly purchase restrictor plate to replace the thermostat.
Logged

1965 Ford Falcon Sedan 302, 5 spd, 4.62 gear
street car
juiced coupe
Six figures worth of don't give a f*ck
Global Moderator
Big Block
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 8252


Location: Pascagoula, MS
The land mass between New Orleans and Mobile


« Reply #217 on: August 07, 2015, 03:38:40 pm »

With the electric water pump, I wouldn't run a thermostat at all. The electric pump doesn't have a provision for the bypass. Without it, your pump can't prime and getting air out of the system is very hard.

I would experiment with restriction plates and find the one that works best. The 1" works well on my car.

If you just have to have a thermostat, don't run that  type. I'd get a cheap 160 unit with the larger flat area on it. Then drill a series of 1/8" holes all the way around it. It sounds crude but that little trick has cured several overheating street cars around here. And believe me, it gets s really fucking hot here.
Logged

Doing more with less, or something like that.
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

Quote from: Monte Smith
Bottom line, if it was the hot ticket, the fast guys would do it.............they don't

You might need some Titanium rods and a flow bench!  LMAO on floor

I honestly don't get it.

I'm sweating, my heart is racing, my clutch foot is twichin', and my right arm punched the computer screen doing an involentary 2-3 shift while reading all that. 
the only Qualk
Stroked Small Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 427


Location: NW, Indiana

« Reply #218 on: September 17, 2015, 12:20:10 am »

Well driving falcon to work tomorrow. Latest carb change is 80 jets in front making it that aay on all four corners. From fidst bit of driving it seems a bit too rich as it accelerated a bit slow it seemed.
Tuesday night hoping to head to us 41 motorplex with my boss. Will update as comes closer but cant wait as will be my first trip with thw falcon.
Logged

1965 Ford Falcon Sedan 302, 5 spd, 4.62 gear
street car
the only Qualk
Stroked Small Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 427


Location: NW, Indiana

« Reply #219 on: September 23, 2015, 02:52:34 pm »

Well I did not break and I got in the 14s last night so I would call that a great success. LOL

My two best passes are the following:
Reaction  .5728   .4671
60ft        2.2135   2.1816
330ft     6.1325    6.0659
1/8 ET   9.3348   9.2553
1/8 MPH 77.86   78
1/4 ET   14.3744   14.3556
1/4 MPH    98.39   97.77

I started very slow as when I tried to give it more power it wheel hopped badly. I have no traction device and rear tires are 215/70/15. Essentially I was launching a bit above normal. I know 13s are within reach with more seat time. I really would like 12s lol
Also I do not have a shift light so I could not be consistent on when I shifted but on the faster passes I went to around 7000 in first and second but my 3-4 shift was early.
I have video and such that I will link/post when I can.
Overall I am happy as this was my first time taking my car down the 1320. Plus the track had awesome italian beef lol.
Logged

1965 Ford Falcon Sedan 302, 5 spd, 4.62 gear
street car
juiced coupe
Six figures worth of don't give a f*ck
Global Moderator
Big Block
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 8252


Location: Pascagoula, MS
The land mass between New Orleans and Mobile


« Reply #220 on: September 23, 2015, 03:37:03 pm »

You need tires.

I know early Falcons are very limited for space. Phoenix and M&H offer some smaller 6-7" slicks that should fit. I know they're small, but it would be a vast improvement over street radials.
Logged

Doing more with less, or something like that.
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

Quote from: Monte Smith
Bottom line, if it was the hot ticket, the fast guys would do it.............they don't

You might need some Titanium rods and a flow bench!  LMAO on floor

I honestly don't get it.

I'm sweating, my heart is racing, my clutch foot is twichin', and my right arm punched the computer screen doing an involentary 2-3 shift while reading all that. 
the only Qualk
Stroked Small Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 427


Location: NW, Indiana

« Reply #221 on: September 23, 2015, 03:50:08 pm »

Tire hop was the factor the in not being above 2000 rpm and needing to slowly release the clutch.

I prefer hoosier tires being a hoosier myself lol. I have not run the numbers on 26 or 28" tire my ultimate goal is 11.98 just to get in the 11 is where I want it once I have everything sorted out.

I also want to try drag radials either 255 or 275 if I can make them fit without a minitub.
Logged

1965 Ford Falcon Sedan 302, 5 spd, 4.62 gear
street car
juiced coupe
Six figures worth of don't give a f*ck
Global Moderator
Big Block
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 8252


Location: Pascagoula, MS
The land mass between New Orleans and Mobile


« Reply #222 on: September 23, 2015, 04:07:30 pm »

Tire hop was the factor the in not being above 2000 rpm and needing to slowly release the clutch.

You definitely need to address that with some sort of traction device. Wheel hop is very hard on driveline parts, especially axles.

I prefer hoosier tires being a hoosier myself lol.

Actually, me too. But I also like what works.

Most everyone knows of M&H's long history in drag tires. IRC, they invented them. Fewer people know that Phoenix is what became of Firestone's drag tire line. And they have a long history in stock elimator.

I also want to try drag radials either 255 or 275 if I can make them fit without a minitub.

With a manual transmission, I wouldn't even consider a drag radial or radial slick. They just don't work right together.

And believe me when I tell you that those tires are much larger than what you have on there now.
Logged

Doing more with less, or something like that.
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

Quote from: Monte Smith
Bottom line, if it was the hot ticket, the fast guys would do it.............they don't

You might need some Titanium rods and a flow bench!  LMAO on floor

I honestly don't get it.

I'm sweating, my heart is racing, my clutch foot is twichin', and my right arm punched the computer screen doing an involentary 2-3 shift while reading all that. 
Bam54
Adv_SBFTechie
Big Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2300


Location: Lake City, FL

« Reply #223 on: September 24, 2015, 08:34:57 am »

I run phoenix tires and get special pricing from them as part of a sponsorship I can sell them to you for to $30-$40 cheaper on a pair than summits price. The slick will actually take away the wheel hop which is caused by the tire loading and unloading. But you really still need to get some Cal-Tracs or something similar on it.

Bam
Logged

"Take the horse out of the barn and let her run baby run"

www.ponyexpressracing.com

CHI headed 454 Clevor
9.24@142 1.30 60ft N/A
5.84@117 1.28 60ft N/A
3040lbs race weight
the only Qualk
Stroked Small Block
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 427


Location: NW, Indiana

« Reply #224 on: September 24, 2015, 01:53:52 pm »

Tire hop was the factor the in not being above 2000 rpm and needing to slowly release the clutch.

You definitely need to address that with some sort of traction device. Wheel hop is very hard on driveline parts, especially axles.

I prefer hoosier tires being a hoosier myself lol.

Actually, me too. But I also like what works.

Most everyone knows of M&H's long history in drag tires. IRC, they invented them. Fewer people know that Phoenix is what became of Firestone's drag tire line. And they have a long history in stock elimator.

I also want to try drag radials either 255 or 275 if I can make them fit without a minitub.

With a manual transmission, I wouldn't even consider a drag radial or radial slick. They just don't work right together.

And believe me when I tell you that those tires are much larger than what you have on there now.

I intend to either build or buy some kind of traction device (slapper bars or cal tracs) to help with traction.

Also even only down to around 11s you dont think drag radials would be a good fit? it would be nice to drive/race on the same tires..

First video link shows the worst wheel hop. I will be adding more to my youtube channel theonlyqualk65 for future videos to not use up sbftech s bandwith.
https://youtu.be/bqVwyhPboMM
Logged

1965 Ford Falcon Sedan 302, 5 spd, 4.62 gear
street car
Pages: 1 ... 13 14 [15] 16 Go Up Print 
« previous next »
Jump to:  



Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines



408 Stroker