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Author Topic: 8.2" 363 Street/Strip (Bracket)  (Read 6438 times)
ShieldsMustang
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« on: July 19, 2010, 05:33:09 pm »

Here is my combo:

1980 Mustang HB, full interior, 2850# race weight.

A4 Block - 4.125" bore
Scat 4340 Crank - 3.4" stroke
Scat H-beam rods - 5.4" length - re-sized to 2.100", 0.927" pin
JE Pistons - Flattop, 6cc valve reliefs
JE Pro Seal Rings
Main, Rod, and Cam bearings are coated Clevite
RHS 215s, cleaned up to 222cc int./79cc exh. - 2.08"/1.60" - 987 Comp Springs, steel locks,retainers
Trick Flow push rods
Comp XE294H camshaft, Pro-Mag lifters
Trick Flow rocker arms - 1.72 ratio
Cloyes true double roller timing chain
Victor Jr. Int. - matched to heads - lots of blending work
650 Holley DP
MSD Ignition

C4 Auto - full roller - custom 10" conv.(4500 mtr - 5500 N20)
8.8", spool, 4.56 gears
28x10.5s M/T ET Drag, on 15x10 rim


Took it to the track, developed a miss after burnout, ran it anyway, went 7.26 @ 95.85, 1.70 60', launching @ 2200 rpm on the footbrake.
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1980 Mustang HB, 8.2"-based 363
woody
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« Reply #1 on: July 19, 2010, 05:34:25 pm »

Did yu sonic check that A4 after you went to 4.125, its got to be dangerously thin.
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331-347 Short Blocks 2099.00 and up
408-418-427 Short Blocks (F4 Roller Blocks Standard) 2399.99 and up
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Make sure you get your information from the internet gurus that haven't built SHIT, they did sleep at Holiday Inn last night, and we have a few of those gurus right here on this forum. Smiley
ShieldsMustang
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« Reply #2 on: July 19, 2010, 05:37:54 pm »

Yes! I had to have it checked after initial bore & hone, it was OK, so I half-filled it with Hard-Blok anyway, since this would help strengthen the weakest section of the bores. Then had re-hone. It was 0.090" over when I bought it from a reputable m/c shop owner. It was in their shop car. He informed me 4.125" was OK, but to be safe, it is best to Hard-Blok it. So I did. No problems yet.
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1980 Mustang HB, 8.2"-based 363
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« Reply #3 on: July 20, 2010, 07:28:50 am »

I always read that you have to fill the block with hard block before boring it. You did it after?
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woody
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« Reply #4 on: July 20, 2010, 09:27:24 am »

Yes! I had to have it checked after initial bore & hone, it was OK, so I half-filled it with Hard-Blok anyway, since this would help strengthen the weakest section of the bores. Then had re-hone. It was 0.090" over when I bought it from a reputable m/c shop owner. It was in their shop car. He informed me 4.125" was OK, but to be safe, it is best to Hard-Blok it. So I did. No problems yet.
Wow you got a rare bird there.
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331-347 Short Blocks 2099.00 and up
408-418-427 Short Blocks (F4 Roller Blocks Standard) 2399.99 and up
Dart Shorts 4199.00+
D.I.Y Shortblocks 1799.00

FordStrokers.com

Make sure you get your information from the internet gurus that haven't built SHIT, they did sleep at Holiday Inn last night, and we have a few of those gurus right here on this forum. Smiley
ShieldsMustang
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« Reply #5 on: July 20, 2010, 09:29:37 pm »

According to the m/c shop owner, it was a "hand picked" block, so i'm sure it was the one with the most advantageous core shift.

Any educated guesses, ideas, or thoughts about power production?

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1980 Mustang HB, 8.2"-based 363
jtmustang
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« Reply #6 on: July 21, 2010, 02:49:27 am »

650 carb.... Hmmmmm

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ShieldsMustang
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« Reply #7 on: July 22, 2010, 04:12:19 pm »

Its what I had on my 308. Not ready to buy one just yet. And it is very easy to tune  (especially with a FAST O2 system).

My 308 went 6.40s @ 104 - 1.371  60' (on 200 shot).

I expect this combo to go 6.60s on motor in the same car.

I honestly think the intake, cam, and carb are my bottlenecks on this engine.

But will it run the numbers?
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1980 Mustang HB, 8.2"-based 363
ShieldsMustang
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« Reply #8 on: July 23, 2010, 09:15:11 pm »

BTW, the headers are Hooker Super Comp 1 3/4" X 3".
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1980 Mustang HB, 8.2"-based 363
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