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Author Topic: 3G Alternator Upgrade How To  (Read 54315 times)
86ssp
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« Reply #30 on: January 13, 2008, 09:07:20 pm »

Its not charging.
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Joel5.0
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« Reply #31 on: January 13, 2008, 09:15:22 pm »

Suggest to have them retest it a couple of times, one little item you may want to double check though, is that the housing of the alternator is making a good ground to the block...... do a voltage drop test to the alternator housing, as shown below.... engine idling, system under load (=headlights on).



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The chaotic resistance of the opponents leads to the conclusion that they are not prepared to meet the challenge. The problem is already much more psychological then technological. [Bojidar Djordjev]
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86ssp
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« Reply #32 on: January 13, 2008, 09:26:01 pm »

I don't think he did a voltage drop test but he did add 8 gauge ground from case to block.my guess is the current sensing switch in the regulator is not working.Thanks
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FEAST MUSTANG
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« Reply #33 on: May 28, 2009, 11:04:36 am »

Hey guys,

About to purchace a 3G alternator, but have one Q first.

I understand the stator wire hook up & new black/orange power wire hook up, but what about the other connector that goes into the internal regulator?  Will the original 75AMP connector fit directly into this?

This alternator im planning on buying has the old connector still attached as seen below.

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« Reply #34 on: May 28, 2009, 05:17:31 pm »

Hey guys,

About to purchace a 3G alternator, but have one Q first.

I understand the stator wire hook up & new black/orange power wire hook up, but what about the other connector that goes into the internal regulator?  Will the original 75AMP connector fit directly into this?

This alternator im planning on buying has the old connector still attached as seen below.



your voltage regulator plug from the 2g will work on the 3g
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Phil.
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« Reply #35 on: May 29, 2009, 10:12:26 am »

Remember to also hook up the dummy light wire, I think its light green with a white stripe. I was chasing my tail when I didn't hook mine up. I couldn't figure out why it wasn't charging, until I hooked that wire up, and whalla.  Hmmmmm Good Luck!
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« Reply #36 on: November 13, 2009, 06:15:59 pm »

 Great info here got my upgrade done today went pretty smooth hardest part was finding the 175 amp fuse holder and fuse locally and older NAPA store had everything I needed.Total cost around 80 bucks Thanks.
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8950lx
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« Reply #37 on: January 18, 2010, 04:37:44 pm »

Is there an "optimum" amperage rating for this mega fuse setup for a 3G alternator or do you just get something a little higher than 130 amps?
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« Reply #38 on: January 18, 2010, 07:24:52 pm »

The later cars that typically came with the 3G or newer, they have the mega fuse and no fusible links. be sure to use some kind of circuit protection for the new power wiring. I've read of many late models using fuses of 150 or more, but wiring experts suggest at least what the alternator is. I'd suggest matching the 94+ Mustang mega fuse.

FYI, hunt carefully for the 3G,  make sure that at least the bolt pattern matches your car. I swapped a 3G into my Lincoln, which takes a larger bolt pattern case. The mid 90's 3.8 Taurus and Windstar usually have that large case, which is different from the Mustang alternator size. I was able to use a wiring harness from a 90's 3.8 Continental, it matched the connections and length I needed. Regards,
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8950lx
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« Reply #39 on: January 18, 2010, 08:54:16 pm »

I appreciate the info. I should have posted when I had more time to explain. I already ave the alternator, but it came with a power wire just slightly bigger than ONE of the original black/orage wires on my mustang. I never really thought about it until I read a few things about how to wire it properly. Soooooo... I'm in the process of aquiring the proper size power wire and wanted to know what "size" fuse to get.
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1988 Mustang LX Coupe former 4 banger:

306 CID, F303, 70mm TB, 76mm C&L MAF,  Comp Cams Box upper and Cobra lower, 24# injectors, Mac 1 5/8" Shorty Headers, 2.5" H pipe, Spin-Tech Pro Streets(dumps), 3.73 Gears, Cobra front brakes with '95 GT lower control arms, '95 GT rear disc brakes.
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« Reply #40 on: January 18, 2010, 09:55:22 pm »

150A Mega Fuse
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LUK  LMK  JIC  BTSTDTRT  YCYDYP  NFI-YTM  SPOBI, and the classic... DILLIGAS

'86 Mustang GT, X-303 cam, Holley DP 700, RG Tran., 289 Heads   Ford Smilie 2


Quote from: Joel5.0
The right to be stupid is inalienable for sure however, there is no such thing as a right to impose stupidity onto others
Great Thoughts will Overwhelm a Feeble Mind
There is never money to do it right, but there's always money to do it over.
Knowledge based on external evidence is unreliable.
He, who doesn't ask, does not deserve an answer.
A mind is like a parachute it only works when it is open.  (oldmanjoe)
If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough. (Albert Einstein)
Tuning on a Dyno for the track, is like swim practice in a bathtub.
I can explain it for you, but I can't understand it for you. (90lxcoupe)
The proof of understanding is the ability to explain it. (H. Torruella)
Ignorance is bliss, but stupidity is orgasmic.
Fraud and falsehood only dread examination. Truth invites it. (Samuel Johnson)
The chaotic resistance of the opponents leads to the conclusion that they are not prepared to meet the challenge. The problem is already much more psychological then technological. [Bojidar Djordjev]
Individuals are rational and humane... Crowds are reactionary and barbaric. (Jason)
The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person doing it. –Chinese Proverb
Nothing sways the stupid more than arguments they can't understand - Cardinal de Retz
8950lx
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« Reply #41 on: January 19, 2010, 12:57:30 pm »

Gracias!
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306 CID, F303, 70mm TB, 76mm C&L MAF,  Comp Cams Box upper and Cobra lower, 24# injectors, Mac 1 5/8" Shorty Headers, 2.5" H pipe, Spin-Tech Pro Streets(dumps), 3.73 Gears, Cobra front brakes with '95 GT lower control arms, '95 GT rear disc brakes.
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« Reply #42 on: September 01, 2010, 09:15:04 pm »

3G Wiring
[/center]
If you've got an electric choke do you run a split off the white/black wire?
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« Reply #43 on: September 02, 2010, 09:34:59 pm »

Figured it has to be the white/black wire as the green goes to the gage and the other would be hot all the time being connected to the battery

http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=75
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1990 Red LX, 306, 75MM, ported gt40's, Holley SMII, accufab longtubes, 3" exhaust, 4.10's, 318RWHP/316RWTQ
1985 LTD LX 302, ported TW's, XE-264 cam, ported Holley SMII, 75MM-R TB, MAC 1 3/4" longtubes, 4R70W, mach 1 brakes
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« Reply #44 on: September 02, 2010, 09:46:41 pm »

Figured it has to be the white/black wire as the green goes to the gage and the other would be hot all the time being connected to the battery

The way I read the directions to a electric choke (Holley), all you need is a 12 volt ignition on source. I would think that the red/green wire from the main harness would be the best source.
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Doing more with less, or something like that.
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

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