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Author Topic: 69 mach 1, 408W, high ports, 4-sp  (Read 114690 times)
eckertd
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« Reply #15 on: January 05, 2010, 03:32:25 pm »

   

Incredible job!

It took me 3  hours a day, twice a week for 15 weeks just to get my decklid looking halfway decent (half-assed)...and that's just the top surface!  Grin

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JimConner
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« Reply #16 on: January 05, 2010, 04:49:58 pm »

I hate to be the one to mention the rotation order on the header is off.

Other than that, totally sweet!  I would lower this thing a few inches and put some steamrollers out back Smiley
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BuckeyeDemon
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« Reply #17 on: January 05, 2010, 08:45:17 pm »

eckertd, i have about 20 hours of metal work in that reproduction lid in order to get the edges correct and the contours right.  it was ugly!  so i understand your pain.  i replaced a lot of metal in this car.

JimConner, can you help me understand what you mean by the rotation order is incorrect?  i checked to see if i put the tubes back in the same collector location as how they were delivered and they are.  does the firing order create some sort of swirl in the collector if ordered correctly?

thanks everyone for the positive feedback!  i can't wait to get it in color and hear it in person!  i hoping to have the engine finished and detailed in the next 9 months, so you will all be well informed how it turns out.
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my63
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« Reply #18 on: January 06, 2010, 12:27:06 am »

Great job man! It takes a crazy person to do body work but GOOD JOB!

subscribed  Thumb up

Hey...I resemble that remark.

We ain't crazy...we just inhaled too many fumes!

There is nothing better than knowing you did it all yourself!
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63 Fairlane, 289, C-4, My other toys run in dirt and jump!

No one WAS arguing until YOU unloaded a case of Dr. Phucking Phil on me.
my63
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« Reply #19 on: January 06, 2010, 12:35:34 am »

Great job, keep up the good work!   Welcome


One question, Where did you come up with the full factory style replacement quarters?

I did one full resto on a '69 Mach for one friend about 5 - 6 years ago, and hung the quarters on  another buddies '69 and could not find a full quarter anywhere outside of NOS ($$$$), only the replacement skin.

It is much easier to hang a full quarter but I had no choice.  
Reproduction sheetmetal sucks! 

Keep the photos coming.  
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63 Fairlane, 289, C-4, My other toys run in dirt and jump!

No one WAS arguing until YOU unloaded a case of Dr. Phucking Phil on me.
BuckeyeDemon
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« Reply #20 on: January 06, 2010, 07:25:24 am »

One question, Where did you come up with the full factory style replacement quarters?


Reproduction sheetmetal sucks! 


Dynacorn started reproducing full quarters about 3 years ago.  my uncle had put skins on this car back in 1994.  he did a good job given the skins sucked.  those things bothered me for the last 14 years.  the lips were to small and looked nothing like an original.  plus you could see a small seem on the inside.  NOS like you said is out of sight now, the fulls skins are very cheap considering what you get. 

like you say reproduction metal sucks.  however this part wasn't bad.  i still had to do a lot of trimming on the edges, make a few modifications by cutting and welding (and the channel by the window had to be reshaped) but in the end they look pretty good.


the trunk lid as mentioned looked nice out of the bag, but required a lot of work

Dynacorn is actually reproducing the entire 69/70 fastback body.  certainly many details are incorrect and the body panel fitment is horrible, but the fact that they are reproducing both 67/68 and 69/70 body's speaks volumes to the popularity of the mustang.
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JimConner
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« Reply #21 on: January 06, 2010, 02:39:00 pm »

JimConner, can you help me understand what you mean by the rotation order is incorrect?  i checked to see if i put the tubes back in the same collector location as how they were delivered and they are.  does the firing order create some sort of swirl in the collector if ordered correctly?

Well, "incorrect" may be a tad strong.  Better to say "not optimal."  There are areas that will open up to you when you reach ten posts, not sure if that is one of them, but I did read about the "collector firing order" somewhere on this site.
Basically, a pipe scavenges the adjacent pipe(s) better than the pipe diagonal from it.
So, you want the pulses to come through the collector in a clockwise or counter-clockwise order.
Do some searching when you reach ten posts.  I have no idea as far as quantifying the HP/TQ difference..
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BuckeyeDemon
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« Reply #22 on: January 06, 2010, 07:39:53 pm »

here were a couple of photos over the course of the last year.

previous owner sliced out the transmission tunnel and crossmember, to probably gain access to the shifter.  they used pop rivets to hold metal in place.


finished shaping, welding and grinding.  i had to fabricate the transmission crossmember not shown in this photo



cutout the front crossmember, lower part of the radiator support, inner front rail and strut rod bracket and battery inner apron.



replaced inner front frame rail.  this piece started life as a reproduction rail.  unfortunately the shape was wrong, the holes were in the wrong location, etc.  i had to reshape it, fix the ends to make it look like the original, relocate the holes and make the two divots in the edge.



the toe board, upper and lower torque box as well as the front floor support and frame rail were in bad condition.


cutout the cancer in the frame rail.  the firewall to floor was the only metal hold the front end together on that side.



made patches to the front frame rail and again heavily modified a repop front floor support to weld in.


welded in a new toe board after welding in the torque boxes and repair of the inner rocker and apron.  this repop piece was for a 67/68 mustang i had to make the contours work.


winter was aproaching and enough structural metal was replaced to warrant placement on the rotisserie for media blasting.  i masked off a small area so i could later paint match the color.


once the rust, paint and grime is gone, its starts to look a whole lot better...


did the inside as well.  media blasting the car was the worst three days of my life.  but worth it.


this was just some of the fabrication involved in making the subframe connectors.  i had to relocate drain holes, recontour ribbing and move brackets as part of the prep.  these are made from 1/8" steel.


a lot of plug welds tie these things to the floorplans.


i counted over 200 plug welds involved in replacing one rear quarter.


drivers side inner quarter area.  i had to fabricate and replace the end of the outer rocker, fabricate two different inner wheel house patches, patch the trunk drop off and weld in the outer wheel house.  the repop outer wheel house just didn't want to fit right without a lot of massaging.


i stripped the metal, including the inner side of the quarter pain and sprayed epoxy thruout.



just a picture of the car back up on the rotisserie after quarter replacement to finish the undercarriage detailing.  if you've never seen a car upside down here you go.


i've sanded every inch of this car inside and out to remove any imperfections and pitting from rust. i had no finger nails for weeks. 


the door gap was inconsistent and a little large for my liking.  i weld in 1/8 rod to the door edge (welded on both sides) then ground flat.  the edge is ground to the contour desired.


same thing to the trunk lid.  i litterally had to jump up and down on this thing to get it close to matching the contour of the rear window crossmember.


after grinding flat


had to grind and weld/grind to many locations on the lid.  these lids never fit right even from the factory.


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BuckeyeDemon
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« Reply #23 on: January 06, 2010, 07:54:17 pm »

TFS high ports on a 351W can be done without touching your shock towers or dimpling your tubes.  i have at least 1/2" of clearance to any location of the chassis even before lowering the motor by 1/2".  however, these headers are only 1 3/4" primaries and this car does not have power steering.

i did have to really rework the clutch linkage (moved the z-bar two inches), but that was due more to the scattershield and headers than the heads.





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my63
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« Reply #24 on: January 06, 2010, 08:14:16 pm »

I have been there in your shoes more than one doing restorations for other people and fully understand the amount of work that it takes to make something nice again.

Most people do not really understand the hours & effort involved here. I never claimed to do concours style restoratioms, as no one I ever did work for would be willing to pay what it is worth.

Therefore I did a few jobs that should have been nicer (well they really were nice) than how they ended up. It sucks when people would make you sell out on the job over the cost, so I do not do this for people anymore.

I started out rebuilding wrecked cars & selling them, basicly production shop type of collision work. When the used car industry tanked a few years ago due to low interest & rebates, I started to do old cars. Now due to people who want concours work at minimum wage rates & a bad back that is over as well.

Now I just try and keep up with the damage to the kids cars and finishing my race car.  I only have to please myself! I had a hard time keeping myself in check on the Fairlane as I wanted a show car in terms of how it looks but had to keep telling myself it WAS a race car and dial it back since it would get it's fair share of scratches & nicks!


Anyhow again, very nice job on the Mustang, it looks awesome.

Keep them pictures coming.
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63 Fairlane, 289, C-4, My other toys run in dirt and jump!

No one WAS arguing until YOU unloaded a case of Dr. Phucking Phil on me.
my63
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« Reply #25 on: January 06, 2010, 08:19:03 pm »

One question, Where did you come up with the full factory style replacement quarters?


Reproduction sheetmetal sucks! 


Dynacorn started reproducing full quarters about 3 years ago.  my uncle had put skins on this car back in 1994.  he did a good job given the skins sucked.  those things bothered me for the last 14 years.  the lips were to small and looked nothing like an original.  plus you could see a small seem on the inside.  NOS like you said is out of sight now, the fulls skins are very cheap considering what you get. 

like you say reproduction metal sucks.  however this part wasn't bad.  i still had to do a lot of trimming on the edges, make a few modifications by cutting and welding (and the channel by the window had to be reshaped) but in the end they look pretty good.


the trunk lid as mentioned looked nice out of the bag, but required a lot of work

Dynacorn is actually reproducing the entire 69/70 fastback body.  certainly many details are incorrect and the body panel fitment is horrible, but the fact that they are reproducing both 67/68 and 69/70 body's speaks volumes to the popularity of the mustang.


After I finished that last Mach 1, I noticed that there were alot more reproduction pieces on the market.

A lot of the pieces I had to make or patch were released for sale!

Now if only someone offered ajust  few of these body parts for a 1962 - 65 Fairlane. Oh well!
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63 Fairlane, 289, C-4, My other toys run in dirt and jump!

No one WAS arguing until YOU unloaded a case of Dr. Phucking Phil on me.
superduty69
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« Reply #26 on: January 06, 2010, 08:33:23 pm »

here were a couple of photos over the course of the last year.

previous owner sliced out the transmission tunnel and crossmember, to probably gain access to the shifter.  they used pop rivets to hold metal in place.



I did have to laugh a little when i saw this pic. It is alarmingly similar to what i ended up with to get my Long shifter to fit, i just notched the crossmember and boxed it instead of cutting through it.

You have been doing a hell of a job on that car and i applaud the patience you have put in to it! I remembered seeing it on 69stang but have'nt seen anything lately.

Good to know the High Ports will not be a problem, good headers do make a difference.

John

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Riceinator
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« Reply #27 on: January 06, 2010, 09:47:54 pm »

wow, that is some very impressive work there.
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BuckeyeDemon
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« Reply #28 on: January 06, 2010, 09:58:04 pm »

there are a ton of parts for mustangs.  even though about every part may have slight issues, it's better than nothing at all.  i'm dying to get a 63 1/2 XL or a 61 Starliner, or a 63/64 fairlane.  but i know how few parts really exist for those and even worse the lack of information, documentation or literature. 

i think people are skewed by the hack quick turn car shows on TV.  they probably think you should be able to restore a car in just a few weeks.


funny thing about those transmission tunnels.  my other two early fords had there transmission tunnels hog at as well, and they weren't even cars that needed any space. 

it's good that you boxed yours in superduty.   i think i recognize you from the other forum.  aren't you running a jerico or something similar?
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superduty69
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« Reply #29 on: January 06, 2010, 10:14:08 pm »


funny thing about those transmission tunnels.  my other two early fords had there transmission tunnels hog at as well, and they weren't even cars that needed any space. 

it's good that you boxed yours in superduty.   i think i recognize you from the other forum.  aren't you running a jerico or something similar?

Yea, i just did'nt see it as a good idea not to box it in. No Jerico not yet anyways just a toploader. I did get a new maincase for it tho. I did hear that Liberty is now able to faceplate 2-3-4 gears now so i may just stay with the toploader.

John
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