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Author Topic: The OFFICIAL PERMATEX/SILICONE THREAD.  (Read 11672 times)
Bradone
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« Reply #75 on: March 07, 2010, 08:10:12 pm »

This might help..... http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,23212.0.html it was a video clip that was lost in the site's crash.

FYI.... most 2005+ auto transmissions either have a reusable pan gasket, or simply use RTV.... did a '05 Dodge Durango transmission filter/ATF change last week and the Ultra Black helped get the job done.

My IRS on the TBird uses sealer only. It is grooved for it. 1993. Coming up on antique here soon.
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93 5.0 Thunderbird LX "Loaded" 81k original at purchase(have maintenance records) Suspension rebuilt front & rear, Solid rubber mm's, Tokico Blues, SCPP 3.5" CAI with box, True Duals (Pypes Bullets 2.5" MVR200R, Magnaflow Resonators 14416), MAC Ceramic Coated 1 5/8 Longtube Headers, FRPP case (IRC) & 3.73 gears, Dynatech MMC driveshaft, Walbro 255lph,  Tru Cool (28k), Cervini hood,Moates QuarterHorse, Innovate LC-1 Wide Band and gauge, J4J1 (94' Cobra) ECM and VMP Slot Blade MAF, '97 TBird Fan, PBR Calipers ////////

15.06@93.48 (4040lb race weight)

To Be Installed: WRGearset (FRPP) AOD w/Art Carr VB (transbrake/electric OD_non-lockup), Ultimate Converter Concepts 9.5" 4100, Hurst V-Matic 2, Camshaft Innovations "Custom" cam & TFS 190 FAC head package by Jay Allen, Holley Systemax II, 75mm TB, 275/50/15 MT D/R's,
85_GT
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« Reply #76 on: April 22, 2010, 09:29:02 am »

What trans and what gasket are you using?

Turbo 400......just regular cork gasket.
It's been a while, but how'd you make out with your leak?
FWIW, one of the things I've learned in my 30+ years of playing with engines and stuff is that the best thing for cork gaskets is either going totally dry, or using a contact/rubber cement type adhesive.  Any 'wet' type of sealer for me has always had issues.  It acts like a lubricant and the cork gasket starts to squish out around the bolt holes.  Wet is good for paper/fiber gaskets and usually ok for rubber.
I get the best seal for valve covers and oil/trans pans with cork gaskets and cement them typically to just the cover or pan.  For automatics since the fluid level is above the gasket at time, I'll cement to the pan, let dry, then put cement again on the gasket and while still wet, attach it to the tranny.
Never had a leak doing it that way.  And the trannies were the ones that always gave me the most problems.
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85GT, Dart Windsor Jr, Crane 2030 equiv. Performer 5.0, 75mm TB, 88mm Slot, 34lbs injectors, 1 5/8" shorties, 5spd converted to 4R70W with Baumann controller, 3.25 9"
A9L running A9P bin via Quarterhorse with LC-1
CDW6212R
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« Reply #77 on: April 22, 2010, 10:20:04 am »

There should not be any cork gaskets ever made any longer, they are horrible products. Cork is porous, by definition that is a very bad material to make a sealing gasket with. Try to find any alternative with solid materials. The newer stuff is typically steel with RTV or rubber attached. That's the best choice, hunt the best possible gasket to begin with.

I've worked with cork also, since about 1979. I've seen leaking, crushing, etc etc. RTV worked the best, but not 100%. The cork deforms, and it deforms more and more over time. It drys out, hardens, cracks, or squishes out, and not all evenly. Toss in the oil factor, heat, poor installation, bolts loosening, and it's a wonder they don't leak more. Keep the cork, I throw that away and replace it with anything better.
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Don
98 Mountaineer, stock but plans for a Navigator A4WD, then a KB 2200 and IC
91 Mark VII LSC Special Edition, OBDII 347 and 4R70W soon.
Sabre
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« Reply #78 on: July 13, 2010, 08:54:53 pm »

Gday guys, I have started to use a new RTV silicone call ThreeBond super sealer, I have used all of the blues, blacks, ultra and every other colour thats out,
In my opinion most of them work well but the ThreeBond is the best one I have used for sealing engines,transmission,differentials and water covers.
Its cleans up easy, is odourless and it works!! Good Luck!


 
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ottawa rogue
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« Reply #79 on: July 18, 2010, 07:03:34 pm »

i see tha i'm not the only one that knows about the grey navistar stuff.
that has got to be the best stuff out there.
it's not like a normal silicone though, it sets up a lot firmer.
and it's NOT o2 sensor safe.
i've got a tube of it out in my garage if anyone wants the part number
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Lost in the myths and rumors section...call me in a couple of years.
anybody got some aspirin???
Sabre
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« Reply #80 on: July 20, 2010, 01:07:00 am »

i see tha i'm not the only one that knows about the grey navistar stuff.
that has got to be the best stuff out there.
it's not like a normal silicone though, it sets up a lot firmer.
and it's NOT o2 sensor safe.
i've got a tube of it out in my garage if anyone wants the part number
The ThreeBond super sealer No.1 Grey I use IS o2 sensor safe
They may have upgraded it
Here is the web site www.threebond.com.au
Part#SS1-330
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67Mustang
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« Reply #81 on: July 31, 2010, 08:52:13 pm »

Ok so my old Nissan 4 banger (which is my DD) needed a new valve cover gasket... couldn't get one in town, it had to be special ordered... so I decided to try the "right stuff" what a waste of $20, I still had to order the darn gasket, and it was only $12... I guess my review or point for this thread is, don't use the right stuff on Nissan Valve Covers, because it doesn't work.
its probably has to do more with the type of gasket used sbf are just sandwiched between.. a lot of the over head cam stuff has a channel the gasket sits in on the valve cover side

I've seen that type installed on Subaru's a lot. For a liquid sealant, you'd likely need to let it set up for a while before installing, plus leave the bolts loose long enough for the core of the sealant to set up. That whole process to be able to do that isn't ideal. Buying the drop in gaskets like those is best if at all possible.

Thats what I'm thinking.. You'd have to find a happy medium between letting it set up and getting it on before its too dry so it can flatten out and fill the nooks and crannies.

The "normal" rubber gasket seems to work better (at least for my truck) but it's good to know how to use "the right stuff" next time  Thanx!

On the other hand... my 302 loves RTV if I can't get the gasket it works, hell even if I get the gasket I have a tendency to drop a little layer on "just in case" so far it is working well; I don't really trust cork gaskets, but that would be because they are a pain to get off when it's time to change them lol. 
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2005 Alabaster Crossfire Limited Coupe
                   (stock --- for now)
       1967 Yellow Mustang GT Coupe
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jon_daniels
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« Reply #82 on: August 04, 2010, 11:08:29 pm »

1. My apologies if something has already been mentioned that fits my needs. I browsed through the thread but it's possible i missed it.
2. What a stroke of luck and/or amazing coincidence that i came across this thread because,


Last night at work I came across a problem. I need to seal up a thin metal container (think paint can) that is exposed to prolonged 525*C (~1000*F) temperatures. The areas to be sealed are tiny gaps around some wires that lead into the container (the holes are very slightly larger than the wires). The pressure inside the container is minimal. I initially tried Permatex Ultra Copper despite its 700*F limitation and, not surprisingly, it cooked off. Is there anything else I could use that dries into a hard or rubbery substance and can withstand these temperatures? Or maybe some sort of sheathing to go around the wires and act like a grommet through the container?

 Thanx!
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Jon - 89 GT 3.73
SteveL
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« Reply #83 on: August 04, 2010, 11:33:08 pm »

Hey Jon,  Check this out...

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/116/3386/=89k7ia

Scroll down to the bottom of the page, might work for you

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Steve.K.Bates

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jon_daniels
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« Reply #84 on: August 04, 2010, 11:42:07 pm »

 SOLD!

that's awesome! Thanks Steve!
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Jon - 89 GT 3.73
juiced coupe
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The land mass between New Orleans and Mobile


« Reply #85 on: August 04, 2010, 11:44:04 pm »

Was just on the Permatex sight, ran across a couple new additions. Might be a cure to some common trouble areas.

http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/Permatex_Automatic_Transmission_RTV_Sealant.htm

http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/permatex_gear_oil_rtv_sealant.htm
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Just a 12 second car with a 11 second engine.....that runs 10s
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20009.0.html

Quote from: Monte Smith
Bottom line, if it was the hot ticket, the fast guys would do it.............they don't

You might need some Titanium rods and a flow bench!  LMAO on floor
jon_daniels
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« Reply #86 on: August 13, 2010, 05:43:45 am »

Hey Jon,  Check this out...

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/116/3386/=89k7ia

Scroll down to the bottom of the page, might work for you


that stuff worked out really well! it would probably be very good for cracked exhaust manifolds or similar repairs. thanks again!
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Jon - 89 GT 3.73
69 Merc
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« Reply #87 on: August 13, 2010, 01:48:33 pm »

Hey Jon,  Check this out...

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/116/3386/=89k7ia

Scroll down to the bottom of the page, might work for you



For intake manifold gaskets, too -- especially the leaky friggin' areas in front and back on top of the lifter valley?   
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Robert's 1969 Mercury Montego (FordStrokers 408W, QFT 850cfm RQ-AN, Super Victor, 2" aluminum open spacer, CamMotion HR .624/.609 251/256 108, 1-3/4" x 3" headers, Broader Performance RmV/B under a C6/4R100 behind a 8"/9" billet 5500 stall, 9" 4.56 Detroit Truetrac, M/T ET radial streets 315/60-15 on 10" rims)

The Merc started here = http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,27178.0.html

Irwindale Speedway 1/8 mile (1st time at a track!) = 7.647 @ 90.78mph with a crappy 1.878 sixty foot (3850# race weight)

Present day Merc = http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,34648.0.html


Except that engine building (properly) is a labor intensive industry.  Who do you think does all the measuring and machining?  Little engine shop fairies?  Not to mention assembly, mock up and parts fitting.

At Woody's level you are not just paying for his labor but for his skill set as well.

Thanks FordStrokers 408W, Westminster Performance Transmission (W.P.T.) transmissions, TCS Performance converters, Broader Performance valvebodies and last but not least a BIG thanks (always) to my friends here and abroad in the World!
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« Reply #88 on: September 01, 2010, 07:57:28 pm »

note to self never use the red RTV on the waterpump it will startleaking in 1 week!!

im gonna re do it and use the black one!
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--==Jurgen==--
1989 F150 reg cab longbed
5.0 HO, Comp cam 35-351-8 , Flowtech LT's, hooker aero chambers, GT40 heads, Edelbrock Air Gap Performer intake, Holley 650dp Carb, C4 shift kit, edge racing converter, B&m shifter.

95GTspeeddemon
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« Reply #89 on: September 02, 2010, 09:17:05 am »

I use grey on the water pump
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95gt, 302, canfield 195's, canfield efi intake; efi sheetmetal elbow, 331 custom cam, 90mm accufab TB, 1 3/4 accufab LT's, 3in accufab h pipe, 3in magnapacks, 4.30's, solid bushing rear upper/lower team z suspension, team z tubular k member and A arms, front coil overs with strange 10 way all the way around. TKO600. 12.9 @ 115 2.0 60' 1300DA
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