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| | |-+ The OFFICIAL PERMATEX/SILICONE THREAD.
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Author Topic: The OFFICIAL PERMATEX/SILICONE THREAD.  (Read 28331 times)
fast88
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« Reply #15 on: June 09, 2009, 08:47:54 pm »

Yup.....everything is cleaned with brakeclean.......like I said...it doesnt leak around the rail....just around the bolts.
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PJC Racing
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« Reply #16 on: June 09, 2009, 08:55:37 pm »

If all else fails, I would buy a Squeegee at the flee market for a buck (they are that cheap here) remove the rubber strip and make rubber bolt gaskets with a hole punch.
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« Reply #17 on: June 09, 2009, 09:26:02 pm »

Hylomar,

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=2867

Pricey, but works pretty well for me.

Rusty
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« Reply #18 on: June 09, 2009, 10:06:03 pm »

 I dont know If using brake kleen or carb clean, will remove all the oil from the surfaces. I use a lot of laquer thinner to clean up gasket surfaces.  Tar remover that you can get at the auto parts store works well too.

            Maybe you could try using thread sealer, I'am just spit ballin here are all the bolts leaking or just certain ones?  There maybe some that are exposed to trans fluid inside the case of the trans.
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« Reply #19 on: June 09, 2009, 11:29:44 pm »

Just thought Id say since Brake Kleen has been mentioned that I always use Starter Fluid instead. Nothing works as good as brake kleen, but with starter fluid I cannot notice any difference and of course instant evaporization like the real stuff. Its also less than 1/2 the price. For other non critical stuff I use Laquer Thinner in one of those pressurize yourself sprayers. They are the two cheapest parts cleaners I  have found that actually work awesome My 2˘

Great thread Rich, I was on Permatex's website today wondering about sealants. 
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95GTspeeddemon
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« Reply #20 on: June 09, 2009, 11:34:06 pm »

That international grey silicone is some bad to the bone stuff.
my valve cover gaskets leaked like that, they got distorted with the cork gasket.
tapped them back, put a rubber w/ metal inside gasket on, not a drop of oil...
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95gt, stock forged 302 shirtblock, canfield 195's, canfield efi intake; efi sheetmetal elbow, xe258 (208/216 .550), 90mm accufab TB, 69mm gt45, 3in cold side, a/a intercooler, water injection, ba5000 maf, 80lb injectors, moates quarterhorse, stock manifold modified & a log manifold, twin 2in up pipes, 60mm wg, 3.5 dp dumped, 14psi, 3.27s, solid bushing rear upper/lower team z suspension, team z tubular k member and A arms, front coil overs with strange 10 way all the way around. TKO600, stock flywheel, ram replacement pressure plate and kevlar/organic disc. 450rwhp 12.39 @ 123.5mph 3400lbs
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« Reply #21 on: June 09, 2009, 11:43:52 pm »

The main thing I was wondering today was in general, do you guys just use a gasket (when one's available) or do you just use a liquid gasket of your choice, or do smear liquid gasket over the paper gasket and call er good?

I have heard them all!

I'm mainly thinking timing cover, and water pump and stuff like that that isnt supposed to be removed unless broken.
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« Reply #22 on: June 09, 2009, 11:48:41 pm »

i used copper coat on my head gaskets this time around.
i normally put a thin layer of grey on the water pump gasket.
i put a real thin bead of red on the water holes on the intake gasket, the gaskets already have a raised "silicone" portion, so a little smear wont hurt. if it didnt have that, i would put a thin bead around the ports.
i put a thin layer on the timing chain cover also.
ultra black is some good stuff, but really hard to get off.
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95gt, stock forged 302 shirtblock, canfield 195's, canfield efi intake; efi sheetmetal elbow, xe258 (208/216 .550), 90mm accufab TB, 69mm gt45, 3in cold side, a/a intercooler, water injection, ba5000 maf, 80lb injectors, moates quarterhorse, stock manifold modified & a log manifold, twin 2in up pipes, 60mm wg, 3.5 dp dumped, 14psi, 3.27s, solid bushing rear upper/lower team z suspension, team z tubular k member and A arms, front coil overs with strange 10 way all the way around. TKO600, stock flywheel, ram replacement pressure plate and kevlar/organic disc. 450rwhp 12.39 @ 123.5mph 3400lbs
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« Reply #23 on: June 09, 2009, 11:57:57 pm »

I only use the Black rtv.... Keep it ready for action in a caulking gun



If it leaks.... you just didn't use enough silicone Naughty
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Water pump and timing cover I always use the gasket, but with some silicone on each side of the gasket.  Using the black stuff, I've never had a leak don't know if that means anything though...

lower intake to block, I don't use the cork rails.  If I could find the rubber rail gaskets easily, I wouldn't mind using them.

For the head to intake gasket, I put a light coat on both the head and the intake, but only around the coolant passages.

Oil pan, I use the reusable rubber gaskets... but coat them with silicone because the last thing I want to do on a free weekend is to pull a motor to replace a stupid CHEAP gasket.  I also use the stock pan rails on my Canton pan for the same reason.... I don't want the damn thing to leak.

For the valve covers I just install the reusable rubber gaskets with the metal core... no silicone.

I haven't used a gasket on the TB/EGR or the upper to lower intake gasket in years.  They're just too tough to find locally (I was using a GT40 intake).  Instead I would smear a light coat on each surface and let it set for a bit, then put them together.


If you aren't getting good adhesion, then scuffing the surfaces is a good idea.  Most of the machined surfaces on the intakes/heads/etc are WAY too smooth for good sealant adhesion.


Jim,
Do you use the black silicone on the INTERNAL oil passage plugs?
I'm fairly certain it would work just fine, but I've never seen a local machinist use anything but the red/orange silicone for the internal plugs.
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« Reply #24 on: June 10, 2009, 12:04:29 am »

the oil passages in the front jason..?


i will from now on only  use screw in oil plugs...


and i also a little goo on each side of timing cover and w. pump gasket, reuseable oil pan and valve cover gaskets with no goo and goop in fron and back of lower intake..

and a little goo on the water jacket ion the intake gaskets, and i have never used anything on the headgaskets but i might try the copper stuff next time around with my hardly used new 1011-1 felpro's

and by goo black rtv usually always and the other stuff in the tube its hard setting goo ... Hmmmmm
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« Reply #25 on: June 10, 2009, 12:23:18 am »

mopar makes some sealer designed  for transmissions.  some of their trans dont even use a gasket just the sealer. the stuff works good. transmission fluid attacks normal silicone.
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« Reply #26 on: June 10, 2009, 08:42:54 am »

By reading the posts here, I believe a few are confused or I have done a poor job explaining.  or both.

I am with Jimmy on this one.  Black or Blue RTV silicone is what I use when assembling an engine.  I will use the orange high temp junk for header gaskets.

What the topic is on that other thread is what do I use EXTERNALLY to seal the engine after assembly so the engine will hold vacuum.

A few of you I have told through the years.  Please, just keep that quiet.
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« Reply #27 on: June 10, 2009, 10:09:08 am »

EXTERNALLY


Holy shit, thats crazy. But applying it externally and letting the vac 'suck it in' must work totally awesome.

I bet its Aquanet  Naughty
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« Reply #28 on: June 10, 2009, 01:09:39 pm »

Ultra BLACK  


X2 on the ultrablack.  Intake manifold, differential cover, water pump, oil pan on the corners.    I even take apart my RC engines and seal the back up with the stuff.  You wouldn't believe how much better these things run when the engines are sealed.  Just my .02 cents FWIW
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« Reply #29 on: June 10, 2009, 02:40:06 pm »

I am with Jimmy on this one.  Black or Blue RTV silicone is what I use when assembling an engine.  I will use the orange high temp junk for header gaskets.

Plus one here.  And to clarify...I use the orange high temp sealer AS header gaskets =D.

Cris 
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