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Author Topic: piston valve notching tool  (Read 40382 times)
95GTspeeddemon
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« Reply #60 on: December 07, 2010, 11:31:31 pm »

The gt40 heads wont work. as you can see the location is off a hair too far.
Now im either going to be buying a dremel and go old school or make some jig to hold the valve.


When I was trying this I wished I had an extra head so I could have someone cut it into pieces to make a jig.  Just leave four bolt holes so I could line up the head bolts.  Find someone with a trashed set of Canfields and find a shop that can cut a good jig out of it.  

I cut the valves to act more like the lindy tool. I will get a new drill and use the canfields i think.
I may be able to make a jig to hold the valve, getting the angles right will be the harder part.


* DSC01643.JPG (2302.77 KB, 3264x2448 - viewed 480 times.)

* DSC01644.JPG (2045.49 KB, 3264x2448 - viewed 540 times.)
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95gt, stock forged 302 shirtblock, canfield 195's, canfield efi intake; efi sheetmetal elbow, xe258 (208/216 .550), 90mm accufab TB, 69mm gt45, 3in cold side, a/a intercooler, water injection, ba5000 maf, 80lb injectors, moates quarterhorse, stock manifold modified & a log manifold, twin 2in up pipes, 60mm wg, 3.5 dp dumped, 14psi, 3.27s, solid bushing rear upper/lower team z suspension, team z tubular k member and A arms, front coil overs with strange 10 way all the way around. TKO600, stock flywheel, ram replacement pressure plate and kevlar/organic disc. 450rwhp 12.39 @ 123.5mph 3400lbs
RunninHorse
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« Reply #61 on: December 07, 2010, 11:41:20 pm »

If you're going to run the same guides I would oil the hell out of them before and during.  The little hand held oil cans with the flexible spouts are handy.
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I'm Rob.  Working on my '93 Reef Blue coupe.  Stock internal 302, 80 MAF, 75 TB, Victor 5.0, High Ports, 30# inj., B303, 1.6s, Tremec TKO 3550, Quicktime bell, Fidanza Al flywheel, stage 3 ceramic clutch, & 4.10s.  12.68 @ 111.69
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oldmanjoe
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« Reply #62 on: December 08, 2010, 09:54:36 am »

   you`r starting to make a big deal out of nothing boys...        you are not going to wear out a valve guild , spinning a valve for two minutes or so.     really the hardest part is dis assembling and reassembling the valves in One Head.   
     
         let the weight of the drill do most of the cutting.    the cutting valve won`t be much more than 10 to 15 degrees above room temperature .     joe
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95GTspeeddemon
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« Reply #63 on: December 08, 2010, 10:00:59 am »

   you`r starting to make a big deal out of nothing boys...        you are not going to wear out a valve guild , spinning a valve for two minutes or so.     really the hardest part is dis assembling and reassembling the valves in One Head.   
     
         let the weight of the drill do most of the cutting.    the cutting valve won`t be much more than 10 to 15 degrees above room temperature .     joe
You are probably right, i just cant afford to break anything else so im being extra careful, trying to acct. for any possibilities.

Im going to get a new 1/2in drill, use the canfields and valves to grind and smooth it out with sand paper.
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95gt, stock forged 302 shirtblock, canfield 195's, canfield efi intake; efi sheetmetal elbow, xe258 (208/216 .550), 90mm accufab TB, 69mm gt45, 3in cold side, a/a intercooler, water injection, ba5000 maf, 80lb injectors, moates quarterhorse, stock manifold modified & a log manifold, twin 2in up pipes, 60mm wg, 3.5 dp dumped, 14psi, 3.27s, solid bushing rear upper/lower team z suspension, team z tubular k member and A arms, front coil overs with strange 10 way all the way around. TKO600, stock flywheel, ram replacement pressure plate and kevlar/organic disc. 450rwhp 12.39 @ 123.5mph 3400lbs
liljoe07
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« Reply #64 on: December 08, 2010, 10:01:06 am »

Shouldn't even take 2 minutes. That 80 grit takes it off pretty quick. But you know that.

I'd buy a cheap black and decker drill, or Harbor Freight, and go to town.
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89 Coupe:
347- Canfield 195's, Holley Systemax II, Jones Cam, 3" Exhaust, 3" Spintechs, QuarterHorse, BE/EA

Well since you friggin disagree with every damn suggestion, just rebuild the piece of shit.
LiftedSplash347
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« Reply #65 on: December 12, 2010, 10:56:22 pm »

Very good idea, perfect for the budget build and such. Question i have is are the certain types of pistons that will not handle the reliefs? IE: Not enough material in the domes. Undercut domes? Also should the sharp edges on the notch of the relief be massaged slightly to avoid hot spots? I know that was a common practice in the ATV pistons, in the quad engine i built. Not to sure of every ones thought on sharp endes on the valve pockets here. Just thinking out loud.
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liljoe07
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« Reply #66 on: December 12, 2010, 11:10:41 pm »

Yes smooth out any sharp edges. Hot spots can cause pre-ignition. Not a good thing! Grin
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89 Coupe:
347- Canfield 195's, Holley Systemax II, Jones Cam, 3" Exhaust, 3" Spintechs, QuarterHorse, BE/EA

Well since you friggin disagree with every damn suggestion, just rebuild the piece of shit.
LiftedSplash347
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« Reply #67 on: December 12, 2010, 11:21:03 pm »

Yes smooth out any sharp edges. Hot spots can cause pre-ignition. Not a good thing! Grin

Sounds good i recalled reading that before and figured it was a decent thread to bring it up in... Pre ignition is a killer!
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95GTspeeddemon
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« Reply #68 on: December 21, 2010, 10:38:23 pm »

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v97/DEER_HUNTER132/Piston%20notching/


One down, another 1/2 done.
Using the valves that are under-cut, cut a little and measure. use prussian blue or axle grease (testing how the grease works out now) and find where its hitting and clearance with dremel.
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95gt, stock forged 302 shirtblock, canfield 195's, canfield efi intake; efi sheetmetal elbow, xe258 (208/216 .550), 90mm accufab TB, 69mm gt45, 3in cold side, a/a intercooler, water injection, ba5000 maf, 80lb injectors, moates quarterhorse, stock manifold modified & a log manifold, twin 2in up pipes, 60mm wg, 3.5 dp dumped, 14psi, 3.27s, solid bushing rear upper/lower team z suspension, team z tubular k member and A arms, front coil overs with strange 10 way all the way around. TKO600, stock flywheel, ram replacement pressure plate and kevlar/organic disc. 450rwhp 12.39 @ 123.5mph 3400lbs
Bryan4916
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« Reply #69 on: January 20, 2011, 06:04:45 pm »

This is just what I was looking for.  Thanks sbftech.  Smiley
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FFR Cobra replica (partially built) w/ 327 (-20.1cc pistons, forged SCAT crank, 5.4" I-beams) on stock block topped with 1st generation Holley heads heavily angle milled to 10.6:1 and converted to stud and a super victor intake.  Air controlled by Accel 1350 cfm throttle body and Comp cam NX274HR-14.  EFI, T-5, 373 rear end
mitymustang351
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« Reply #70 on: January 26, 2011, 10:10:08 am »

that really work well just watched my dad do that to his 306 for clearince.......
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95GTspeeddemon
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« Reply #71 on: January 26, 2011, 10:29:24 am »

80 grit does not work too good, 36-40 grit on the other hand works much better. It will be kind of rough though, so a aluminum polishing wheel/disc on a 1/4in air angle grinder works good to smooth it out.
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95gt, stock forged 302 shirtblock, canfield 195's, canfield efi intake; efi sheetmetal elbow, xe258 (208/216 .550), 90mm accufab TB, 69mm gt45, 3in cold side, a/a intercooler, water injection, ba5000 maf, 80lb injectors, moates quarterhorse, stock manifold modified & a log manifold, twin 2in up pipes, 60mm wg, 3.5 dp dumped, 14psi, 3.27s, solid bushing rear upper/lower team z suspension, team z tubular k member and A arms, front coil overs with strange 10 way all the way around. TKO600, stock flywheel, ram replacement pressure plate and kevlar/organic disc. 450rwhp 12.39 @ 123.5mph 3400lbs
mitymustang351
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« Reply #72 on: January 26, 2011, 12:38:00 pm »

yea he used 40 grit and it worked really well....
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95GTspeeddemon
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« Reply #73 on: February 17, 2011, 10:21:16 pm »

look too deep?
i cant get a repeatable measurement for shyt. i took off somewhere from .090 to .170 lol
i guess i will have to take the pistons to a machine shop to measure the crown thickness.






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95gt, stock forged 302 shirtblock, canfield 195's, canfield efi intake; efi sheetmetal elbow, xe258 (208/216 .550), 90mm accufab TB, 69mm gt45, 3in cold side, a/a intercooler, water injection, ba5000 maf, 80lb injectors, moates quarterhorse, stock manifold modified & a log manifold, twin 2in up pipes, 60mm wg, 3.5 dp dumped, 14psi, 3.27s, solid bushing rear upper/lower team z suspension, team z tubular k member and A arms, front coil overs with strange 10 way all the way around. TKO600, stock flywheel, ram replacement pressure plate and kevlar/organic disc. 450rwhp 12.39 @ 123.5mph 3400lbs
liljoe07
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« Reply #74 on: February 17, 2011, 10:30:13 pm »

Intake looks real deep to me. Did you not measure what you had for clearance before you started notching?
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89 Coupe:
347- Canfield 195's, Holley Systemax II, Jones Cam, 3" Exhaust, 3" Spintechs, QuarterHorse, BE/EA

Well since you friggin disagree with every damn suggestion, just rebuild the piece of shit.
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