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Author Topic: piston valve notching tool  (Read 49356 times)
oldmanjoe
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« on: February 16, 2009, 04:55:13 pm »

here is a quick and cheap way to piston valve notching tool.    i used a two part expoxy and glue 40 to 80 grit sand paper to a old set of intake and exhaust valves.        after they dry i trim the sand paper a little bigger than the valve.   there is a good tech article in the library section.      joe


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PJC Racing
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« Reply #1 on: February 16, 2009, 04:58:18 pm »

What are you notching Joe?
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Nacho
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« Reply #2 on: February 16, 2009, 05:22:28 pm »

Will the sand paper mark the piston and then you'll know how 'wide' to notch it?
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oldmanjoe
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« Reply #3 on: February 16, 2009, 05:48:35 pm »

Will the sand paper mark the piston and then you'll know how 'wide' to notch it?

  no  i cut the notch with the sand paper ..    i use a drill and a old head .    just the weight of the drill for pressure to cut.    ruffly it takes about a minute and a half to cut .080 on the exhaust .   i don`t have pic of doing it , just results     joe


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Still in the classroom hopefully still awake !!!
 A mind is like a parachute it ONLY works when it is OPEN
 Grandpa`s word`s of wisdom, joey that thing between your shoulders is not a hat rack
 Only a rich man can afford cheap parts, because he can afford to replace them
 If you did not understand what i said,say so and i will try and explain it another way
Many of life's failures are experienced by people who did not realize how close they were to success when they gave up.
Don`t get frustrated...get educated,you are at the library now ,so start reading .
Life`s journey is not to arrive at the grave Safely in a well preserved body,Rather to skid in sideways, out of control, totally worn out, Shouting Holy shit what a ride.
Inside the box is too crowded for me!!! besides every time you get going you run in to another corner.
 SPEED READING and written technical information , Don`t go together
Time is the best teacher, but most of its students die before learning the lessons.
IF YOUR READING COMPREHENSION IS NOT
OF A 5TH GRADE LEVEL DO NOT PROCEED {jay allen}
The voices in my head may not be real, but they have some good ideas!
Nacho
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« Reply #4 on: February 16, 2009, 06:57:55 pm »

Nice!
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liljoe07
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« Reply #5 on: February 16, 2009, 07:54:54 pm »

so you bolt the head on, then use the valve guide as a guide?
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89vert50
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« Reply #6 on: February 16, 2009, 08:12:21 pm »

Joe is the shit!!  That valve relief arbor is like 100 bucks from what I remember
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liljoe07
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« Reply #7 on: February 16, 2009, 08:28:58 pm »

Joe is the shit!!  That valve relief arbor is like 100 bucks from what I remember

joe is smart. hes saves a killing doing things the way he does them. which leaves more money for go fast parts Stang B-out
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89 Coupe:
347- Canfield 195's, Holley Systemax II, Jones Cam, 3" Exhaust, 3" Spintechs, QuarterHorse, BE/EA

Well since you friggin disagree with every damn suggestion, just rebuild the piece of shit.
Joel5.0
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« Reply #8 on: February 16, 2009, 08:57:02 pm »

Joe.... you don't know how perfect the "timing" of this tip is......
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wildcobrar
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« Reply #9 on: February 16, 2009, 09:38:30 pm »

Pretty "Trick"   Nice way to come up with doing it.  Both ideas are great.

Joe
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hars
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« Reply #10 on: February 17, 2009, 01:18:56 am »

Another way to do it also is to take the valve and weld a bead on it at the edge then sharpen it with a cut off wheel.

That's great also!! You guys  !!
So you're supposed to razor sharp the bead?
Ham
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hars
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« Reply #11 on: February 17, 2009, 01:19:44 am »

here is a quick and cheap way to piston valve notching tool.    i used a two part expoxy and glue 40 to 80 grit sand paper to a old set of intake and exhaust valves.        after they dry i trim the sand paper a little bigger than the valve.   there is a good tech article in the library section.      joe

That's great!!!!!!
Thanks A LOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 
Ham
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boss 371
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« Reply #12 on: February 17, 2009, 03:02:43 am »

Another way to do it also is to take the valve and weld a bead on it at the edge then sharpen it with a cut off wheel.





here is one i prepared earlier Naughty
                                                                       

                                                       
                                                   


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nothing like the sound of a big hp windsor

Don't fear the gear! 


Or you can run back to FM and build a 3.00" stroke, 6.500" rod, in a 9.500" deck block, use GT-40 heads because you want "torque" and then run 13's because it won't turn the tires in wet grass.

Your Choice


Do you know how you can spot bullshit?.......... here are some catch phrases  to look for:


Torque Down Low
Velocity
Tip In
A 750 cfm Holley is too big of a carburetor
A 75mm TB is too big for an EFI N/A setup
Single Plane intakes are only good for 7000 rpm setups
A long runner EFI intake is the only alternative for a DD setup
Rod to stroke ratio and side loading
A set of cylinder heads that peak flow at .500" lift require a .500" lift cam
Solid roller setups area a Don't ...no  for streetable setups
Anything bigger than a 2.5" ID exhaust will cause losses in power, specially in "torque down low"


CI qoute of the month--

Never saw a flow bench go down the track and 10cfm in an application where the MCSA is the issue, 10cfm is like trying to piss on the World Trade Center when it was on fire.
oldmanjoe
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« Reply #13 on: February 17, 2009, 05:40:00 am »

Another way to do it also is to take the valve and weld a bead on it at the edge then sharpen it with a cut off wheel.





here is one i prepared earlier Naughty
                                                                       

                                                      
                                                   
Another way to do it also is to take the valve and weld a bead on it at the edge then sharpen it with a cut off wheel.


how did you like it, for cutting.    when i tried things similar , i did not like the up and down motion every time the cutter came around.  plus i was getting a choppy cut.
   with the sand paper,it`s a constant cut and smooth.    also before you start the drill,mark the valve stem were it meets the top of the guide with a magic marker.   this will help you see how much you are cutting. 
    or put a o ring on the stem, feeler gage on top of guide then slide o ring down to feeler gage . then proceed cutting.   when the o ring starts to touch the guide , lift head and check piston for depth of cut.   joe           joel  can you do that magic of adding the tech article to my post?      thanks  joe
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Still in the classroom hopefully still awake !!!
 A mind is like a parachute it ONLY works when it is OPEN
 Grandpa`s word`s of wisdom, joey that thing between your shoulders is not a hat rack
 Only a rich man can afford cheap parts, because he can afford to replace them
 If you did not understand what i said,say so and i will try and explain it another way
Many of life's failures are experienced by people who did not realize how close they were to success when they gave up.
Don`t get frustrated...get educated,you are at the library now ,so start reading .
Life`s journey is not to arrive at the grave Safely in a well preserved body,Rather to skid in sideways, out of control, totally worn out, Shouting Holy shit what a ride.
Inside the box is too crowded for me!!! besides every time you get going you run in to another corner.
 SPEED READING and written technical information , Don`t go together
Time is the best teacher, but most of its students die before learning the lessons.
IF YOUR READING COMPREHENSION IS NOT
OF A 5TH GRADE LEVEL DO NOT PROCEED {jay allen}
The voices in my head may not be real, but they have some good ideas!
boss 371
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« Reply #14 on: February 17, 2009, 09:22:46 am »

Joe you are correct.It takes a little getting used to.
The sandpaper idea is a good one.

                                                                  Plus One
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nothing like the sound of a big hp windsor

Don't fear the gear! 


Or you can run back to FM and build a 3.00" stroke, 6.500" rod, in a 9.500" deck block, use GT-40 heads because you want "torque" and then run 13's because it won't turn the tires in wet grass.

Your Choice


Do you know how you can spot bullshit?.......... here are some catch phrases  to look for:


Torque Down Low
Velocity
Tip In
A 750 cfm Holley is too big of a carburetor
A 75mm TB is too big for an EFI N/A setup
Single Plane intakes are only good for 7000 rpm setups
A long runner EFI intake is the only alternative for a DD setup
Rod to stroke ratio and side loading
A set of cylinder heads that peak flow at .500" lift require a .500" lift cam
Solid roller setups area a Don't ...no  for streetable setups
Anything bigger than a 2.5" ID exhaust will cause losses in power, specially in "torque down low"


CI qoute of the month--

Never saw a flow bench go down the track and 10cfm in an application where the MCSA is the issue, 10cfm is like trying to piss on the World Trade Center when it was on fire.
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