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 91 
 on: April 04, 2018, 10:40:19 am 
Started by Bam54 - Last post by Bam54
Base lined the rear suspension and got the car leaving straight. New best 5.78@118.6 with a 1.27 60ft. Still same jetting 200hp.

Bam

 92 
 on: April 03, 2018, 06:32:15 pm 
Started by Frosty32 - Last post by juiced coupe
The factory rods are plenty strong for an average street engine. Just try to avoid putting too much money into them.

If you decide to swap to roller (which is a good idea), do it the correct way. Use link bar lifters, not a reduced base cam with factory lifters. The retrofit setups have been known to have problems.

Done correctly, the camshaft should be one of the final decisions made. After any cylinder head modifications are made, compression ratio decided, etc.

 93 
 on: April 03, 2018, 06:05:12 pm 
Started by Frosty32 - Last post by Frosty32
I have a block to send off and get checked out. If it is useable then i will just build it to 357 and work from there. I will be getting subframe connectors put in soon. Gas i think is usually 92 maybe 93 but its limited around here. The heads will be getting checked out at same time as the block. I was told had springs swapped to match the cam so i will have those checked out also. Do i need the forged rods if i used the truck rods with arp bolts? As far as cam if i swap to roller and retrofit this block then what cam suggestions do you have

 94 
 on: April 03, 2018, 05:01:29 pm 
Started by juiced coupe - Last post by juiced coupe
We're going again this Sunday, traffic should be lighter on the weekends

I'd drive over, but..........

I'm on straight night shifts until June

And while this Sunday is actually my day off, I don't think that my wife would appreciate me spending my one day off in Pensacola, at the track.

 95 
 on: April 03, 2018, 02:34:19 pm 
Started by David Claflin - Last post by David Claflin
Thanks, someone one on FB just pointed me to those as well.

 96 
 on: April 03, 2018, 12:32:55 pm 
Started by David Claflin - Last post by gmatt9858
they're finally making repops of these:
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-2073BRKT/mustang-v8-rear-upper-brake-hose-bracket-86-93
$30 might seem a little high, but Mustang recyclers were selling used brackets on ebay for $40-50

 97 
 on: April 03, 2018, 09:20:28 am 
Started by juiced coupe - Last post by David Claflin
Holt is only an hour or so away.......
http://raceecd.com/

I've definitely thought about it. Its probably closer 1.5+ for me, assuming that the parkway isn't backed up.

I'm also not crazy about towing through the tunnel and across the parkway. Its like people forget how to drive when they get there.

After watching all Rodney's videos, I'm definitely going to make it over there one day.
We're going again this Sunday, traffic should be lighter on the weekends

 98 
 on: April 03, 2018, 09:19:01 am 
Started by David Claflin - Last post by David Claflin
I'm in the process of converting two foxbody cars, I'm looking for the rear brake line hardmount, that is riveted to the body in front or and above the rear axle. Let me know what you've got.

 99 
 on: April 03, 2018, 12:54:48 am 
Started by juiced coupe - Last post by juiced coupe
I've got pics, but the damn site is acting stupid with uploads tonight.

 100 
 on: April 03, 2018, 12:51:57 am 
Started by juiced coupe - Last post by juiced coupe
I think I've got everything that I need to revamp my fuel system. I'm on straight night shifts until June, so I'll only have an hour or two at a time to work on it.

After my Aeromotive pump died, I kept an eye out for a better replacement. I got a deal on a refurnished Mallory Comp 250. Then I got deals on a nearly new Holley 704 and brand new Quick Fuel 803 regulators. I also picked up a new MagnaFuel filter to replace the Earls filter that is currently on the car. The MagnaFuel has a little smaller micron rating but has a ton more surface area.

https://flic.kr/p/24pF9EX

At first I was just going to install and/or replace only the plumbing that I had too. One thing led to another, and I decided to replace everything except for the fuel cell and the aluminum line that runs along the frame. Both of them will require modifications as well.

My car currently has a mix of Earls (mostly), Aeroquip, Russell, Redhorse, Big End, and Jegs hose ends on it. The Redhorse are by far my favorite and that will be all thats on the car afterwards. Most of them are full swivel and are sooooo much easier to assemble than most of the others listed (Earls are the hardest).

https://flic.kr/p/25GSX5q

All of the stainless braid is coming off and being replaced with nylon braid. I bought the -6 Vibrant first, and planned on using that hose for the whole car. Then I ran across an online speed shop that had really good deals on their house brand hose. It had several good reviews, so I bought it for the -8 and -10 lines. Most of it will be covered in heat sleeve anyways.

https://flic.kr/p/25GSXA5

I also decided to replumb the regulator manifold. The old one is made mostly from brass fittings. The new setup uses a -10 MagnaFuel manifold and the associated fittings for it.

https://flic.kr/p/25GSXgC

If anyone is wondering what the green thing is, that everything is sitting on. I'm finishing up a new transom for a 14' aluminum skiff that I recently acquired. Its three layers of 1/2" exterior plywood laminated together, sealed in four thick layers of marine epoxy resin, and primed/painted to match the boat. I'm also adding a section of aluminum flatbar across the top, where the motor attaches.

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