I have seen both setups on multiple cars, some just work better than others. I've even seen an inline pump underhood, plumbed in place of the mechanical pump. The actual type of pump likely has a lot to do with its ability to pull off suction.

Now, I absolutely believe that that gravity feeding the pump is the best way. That, or an in-tank pump.

When I first plumbed my car, the plumbing setup wasn't ideal. While the pump inlet was level with the tank sump, the design of the large canister filter required its ports to be ~8" higher. With this setup, I could hear my fuel pump change tone when the tank was around half empty. After switching to an inline filter directory on the pump inlet, it maintains a consistent sound until the cell is nearly empty.

But if the suction was unrestricted, I wouldn't have a problem using an inline pump on a  low power driver. I would still want the pump as close to the tank as possible, ideally at or below the bottom level.

Interesting. Mine did not work worth a darn that way, plus it said in the instructions that it had to be gravity fed. I switched to a mechanical pump after that and it pulls well from the top.

Oddly....  I have an "in-line" fuel pump and it's working flawlessly pulling fuel from the top of the tank (required for road racing).  Thought I was gonna have to prime the pump....   Nope!

I've seen a spec that tells you how much tire movement let's you know if the backlash is in spec. But that's based of stock tire size and gears. So I doubt it will help.

How would you "feed" the inline fuel pump? Gravity? Better hope the gas tank has it's fittings on the bottom.

Since the factory fuel delivery system was a return fuel delivery system, that would mean that the factory pump could be used with the carb as long as the return components remain intact and the correct fittings are used to adapt the factor lines to the carb.......right?

If these components are available from the wrecked truck, this would be worthwhile in my opinion.

My converter is around 5200 hopefully it won't be to loose when I put the bigger pills in. I have another powerglide converter that's a little tighter.

It's one I have had, it came out of my 95 Gt street car. We put new bearings in it last year and was letting a friend use for the year. I got back from him a couple months ago and put brand new AFR heads on it. The engine is a World block with 4.125 probe flat top pistons, H beam rods, Scat 3.4 stroke crank, Super Victor, Quick Fuel 750 E85 carb, Kooks 2 inch headers and AFR 220s I  bought from Woody with a small solid roller I bought used from a member here.

..... the more I think about it, I'm just going to rebuild it with new internals as the R and P are fine as it has a recent clutch pack with an extra plate. Thanks for all the help....... 

Thanks guys,

Now that I don't need a new bell housing that's just money that can go somewhere else.