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General Tech => Aftermarket Tuners - Generally => Topic started by: cheese_05_70 on November 20, 2011, 11:52:46 am



Title: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: cheese_05_70 on November 20, 2011, 11:52:46 am
I emailed Cgrey to become a member at <eectuning.org> Im just getting started with this stuff so please bear with me if i have a lot of questions. I dont have everything yet, but i do have BE and QH i still need EA and WB.

First question: why do the tables only got to 4k rpm?
I want to get familiar with how it works and make a base tune in the process.

What i have done so far: i changed the injector timing with the worksheet for david clafflin, i changed injector slopes, i turned off thermoactor and canister purge, adjusted rev limit, and simplified the timing tables through the article on eectuning. If i understand right, i should only be running off of sea level tables.

I need a MAF transfer for a pro-m 80mm MAF. EA has some templates but only supplies the injector size.

Does anyone have one i can use? or point me where to get one?

What else do i need to adjust for a base tune? Any help is greatly appreciated.

I attached the tune, thank you.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: liljoe07 on November 20, 2011, 12:08:36 pm
You are going to have to scale the rpm and load tables. Look under scalars in BE. You should see a choice that mentions scaling. This will let you stretch out the rpm rows, and load columns for more control.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: cheese_05_70 on November 20, 2011, 12:51:50 pm
Thanks for the reply liljoe i looked in the scalars and cant find it tho. I found a MAF transfer and finally got it to load is there a way to copy and paste numbers into the whole tables? I know if u have a table u can just drag and drop it but i found just the numbers no table.

Is there a wayt to disable the a/c in the computer? mines is not hooked up so it probably doesnt matter but if i can disable i want to.

Thanks for the help.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: fidstang on November 20, 2011, 12:58:23 pm
The table ending at 4000rpm means that any rpm above this point uses the same value in the cell.

Same with the load, you'll see a max (oem setting) of 80(%), anything at or above this gets the same value.

Examp:

if you are at 60% load and 5000rpm, you will use the the cell for 60% load and 4000rpm.

As stated you can go into the function tab (if using BE) and go to the system functions and rescale the tables for your application.

As for the MAF, you can use the ones supplied from EA and copy them into BE or use the import export functions in EA and BE.

 Either way, you have the known injector settings so you can just force open loop and build your own MAF transfer like I did. Before doing anything, make sure your idle and tps have been set correctly. Unplug your IAC so you can start with the idle MAF voltages (0v - 0.8v) and log your maf voltage and maf kg/hr at idle. Take the logged data and enter them into the MAF transfer for the specific voltages you see at idle. Then start a data log again and raise you idle by the set screw to 1500rpm for 30secs, then adjust it to 2000rpm for 30secs, then adjust it to 2500rpm for 30secs, and finally to 3000rpm for 30secs. Now you have data values for the major normal driving conditions, enter those values into the maf transfer.

Now to get the final voltage flow values you look at the difference between your old values and the new ones. In EA or using a calculator, increase the remaining values by that difference and go for a drive. Go WOT in 4th gear at low rpms and make sure you are not lean, then do a quick blast in second or first gear while monitoring your AFR to make sure you don't run lean. Adjust as needed. Now you have a MAF transfer for "your" setup and not a flow bench.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: fidstang on November 20, 2011, 01:00:56 pm
Obviously, don't forget to note the original tps value and restore it to that value when you completed the set screw adjustments for normal driving conditions. *Before the drive*


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: bender460 on November 20, 2011, 01:23:17 pm
  Your rev limiter settings are not right. For an A9L stock tune the rev limiter is actually MINPIP8... So set it to 7500rpm then all your other settings will be valid. +/- 7500 rpm will the limit of the ECU.  For all my stuff I just max out every thing rpm limiting and use my MSD to control rpm limits. Never really liked the idea of fuel being cut.

   Also I'm on the fence about your WOT timing. Having it go off of the regular timing tables is just fine BUT you better be sure your load scaling is at least close. I would eliminate all WOT timing adders...Set them all to 1... And set WOT timing to whatever you like. That way there really is no way for error. You could revisit it later.

   You about 1/4 the way there on your injector settings also.

   What size injector is your MAF calibrated for?? This will lead you to the right transfer curve.

 :smile


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: fidstang on November 20, 2011, 01:45:22 pm
You've modified the table for spark-adder-egr, yet your scalar is set for a sonic system. Do you have your EGR system?

You should also give us the details of everything you've changed or has been changed with your engine.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: David Claflin on November 20, 2011, 06:38:57 pm
Do this in the scalars
Set your TB airflow to 75, just a ballpark to get you started
Set Idle RPM  in neutral to 750, you'll need to set idle at the TB with IAB disconnected to 625

EEC analyzer has the base 30 pound MAF curve, injector breakpoint that injector offset that will get you going, then do some datalogs and see how it looks.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: cheese_05_70 on November 20, 2011, 07:47:48 pm
Thanks guys.

Fidistang: my mods are in my sig but you might be posting from your phone so here they are

88 4 cyl converted to 306, 9:1 compression, cleaned up Windsor sr heads 64cc chamber, nx274 cam installed on 109cl, comp 851 lifters, ultra gold roller rockers, ported typhoon intake, 75mm Tb, 30lb injectors, 80mm pro m maf, hooker shorty 1.625 headers, 2.5 h pipe into 2.5 flowmasters out the back, t5 trans, aluminum driveshaft, 8.8 3.73 gears, Subframes.

If it is no big deal about the rpms in the tables i will leave them cause i still couldnt find it.
I found a MAF transfer on eectuning and it was the same as EA so i used that. Thanks for posting how to make one cause i might make one when i get there.

Bender: On th rev limiter i will do i was just reading the captions and adjusting. i dont like the idea on fuel cutting but that is my only way. i dont plan on hiting it at all but you know how that goes shit happens. MAF is for 30lber i got a curve off of EA. what still needs to be adjusted if the injectors are only 1/4 way there?

I was just following the guide on eectuning on timing tables i ddint adjust anything. just disable altitude and a couple other things like it said. So how would you set it up? leave it stock? i can start over if need be.

Fidistang: I dont know how the scalar got set to sonic system? and i dont really know what u mean. yes i still have EGR. to fix things i need step by step how to do it cause i have trouble fiding things.

David: thanks for the pointers on the adjustments i will do them and repost the tune see if i did it right. i got a curve now. Are you saying that the breakpoint and offset is ok for now?

Thanks guys I'm feeling really dumb cause i try to find things but its not worded the same as it is in BE and i dont want to mess shit up.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: David Claflin on November 20, 2011, 07:51:37 pm
When you make a tune save it with a different name as your previous, Mine are like 90LX2, then 3, always saving it with a different number so I can revert to the previous if I want to. I also keep a log with changes as  I go along, like a diary if you will so I can refer back to that also.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: cheese_05_70 on November 20, 2011, 08:01:54 pm
David: i had plans on doing that after i get my base tune figured out. Someone on eectung suggested that so i had plans on it. Im assuming on TB you mean .75 cause stock was 0.55.Are my timing tables fucked up? What else should i adjust? What should i all datalog too? does it automatically datalog when latop is plugged in with engine running?
 well here is the tune.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: bender460 on November 20, 2011, 09:39:52 pm
   On the injector settings..... During cranking the ecu isn't using the slopes.. So you need to pull fuel in the function ( Fuel - Cranking Pulsewidth vs Time ). Basically the difference between the stock 19lb injectors and the new 30lb. So ???? 0.633

   Also need to adjust function ( Fuel - Injector Offset vs Battery Voltage ).. This is fuel injector specific. An injectors open and close times will be different at different voltages.

 :smile


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: cheese_05_70 on November 20, 2011, 10:29:16 pm
Cranking pulsewidth was 1.00 in the whole table so i reduced it to 0.633 in all values. How do i know what to adjust the injector offset by? do i reduce it by 0.633 the difference in injectors?

Also mnpip is cutting spark correct? well can i cut fuel then spark right after or can i cut them at the same time? I know msd boxes will become unstable a few hundred rpms before the pill sometimes. i thought the stock rev limit was 6250? mnpip says its 6500. I want the car to be able to go to 6500 if it keeps pulling that high which it should. how woud u adjust it.

Could you explain more about the load scaling that you were talking about on my timing. how would i know if it is correct or not?  basically get rid of the wot addere and command where the timing will be at wot. where do i command wot timing? How would you set it up?
Disabling Z_wspksw disables wot spark adder correct not doubting just trying to understand and clarify. Would spuclp be the command your talking about for wot max timing?

Thanks i know progress is slow but i am finding things easier.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: 85_GT on November 20, 2011, 10:51:48 pm
Wrong cranking pw function.  You want the one right above it. Cranking vs ect.

Injector offset vs batt.  That's the toughest one for me.  Ideally, you want to have a common injector with the spec values.  You don't just multiply.  It depends on the injector. Newer 30's actually have larger values then the older style 30s.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: 85_GT on November 20, 2011, 10:56:15 pm
Injector offset has the most effect at low pw's.  It's less of an effect at WOT pulse widths.  With 30's, if you're wrong by .5ms that works out to about .5 AFR difference if I remember right.  At low load, the same wrong can swing AFR by about 2.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: cheese_05_70 on November 21, 2011, 12:19:08 am
Wrong cranking pw function.  You want the one right above it. Cranking vs ect.

Injector offset vs batt.  That's the toughest one for me.  Ideally, you want to have a common injector with the spec values.  You don't just multiply.  It depends on the injector. Newer 30's actually have larger values then the older style 30s.

Thanks i fixed it in the tune. I'm not quite following what you mean by a common injector with the spec values? how do you tell new 30's from the old ones? or are you refering to ev1 style and ev6 style?
should i just leave offset stock until i datalog and get a WB to know what my afrs are doing? Im not driving the car or starting the car so dont worry yet.

Thanks everyone for there help. i know on this stuff some people do it differently but please dont hesitate to chime in.


Colby


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: cheese_05_70 on November 21, 2011, 12:21:44 am
forgot to attach current tune


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: bender460 on November 21, 2011, 09:24:00 am
Wrong cranking pw function.  You want the one right above it. Cranking vs ect.

Injector offset vs batt.  That's the toughest one for me.  Ideally, you want to have a common injector with the spec values.  You don't just multiply.  It depends on the injector. Newer 30's actually have larger values then the older style 30s.

  First I've heard of cranking vs time being wrong. Really look at the last two tunes... Regardless of where the changes are cranking fuel will be the same.

   As far as load and WOT... You have the scalar Z_WSPKSW enabled. You are pulling WOT spark from your timing table. Your load calculations are going to be different and need to be tuned. I would stay away from enabling Z_WSPKSW for now just set function ( Spark - WOT Advance vs RPM ) to some thing like this....

16383.75   31.00
6000.00   32.00
5000.00   32.00
4500.00   32.00
3500.00   32.00
2800.00   25.00
1800.00   22.00
1000.00   16.00
0.00   0.00

   Maybe 85_GT can enlighten us on how load is calculated.....



 :smile


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: 85_GT on November 21, 2011, 09:30:00 am
Wrong cranking pw function.  You want the one right above it. Cranking vs ect.

Injector offset vs batt.  That's the toughest one for me.  Ideally, you want to have a common injector with the spec values.  You don't just multiply.  It depends on the injector. Newer 30's actually have larger values then the older style 30s.

Thanks i fixed it in the tune. I'm not quite following what you mean by a common injector with the spec values? how do you tell new 30's from the old ones? or are you refering to ev1 style and ev6 style?
should i just leave offset stock until i datalog and get a WB to know what my afrs are doing? Im not driving the car or starting the car so dont worry yet.

Thanks everyone for there help. i know on this stuff some people do it differently but please dont hesitate to chime in.


Colby

By common, I mean ones that are widely used with know injector parameters.  Yes, Ford Racing had the older EV1 style 30 pounders (fat body) and the newer skinny injectors.  Both are 30 but have different offsets, breakpoints, low slopes, and slightly different high slopes.  It be best to pick an injector that all these values are available for.  Plug in those values, and then there is less to tweek.

What injectors do you have?  

Another thing on pulsewidths,  in my version of BE, 2010, build 18.  The displayed and logged pulsewidths do not include the offset value.  Not sure if that has changed with the latest.  The offset is meant to just account for the mechanical delays of the injector.  It's not used in the fuel calculations.  Yet can affect the actual AFR you get.

Thing I have yet to figure out it the cranking pw values entered the actual total pw, or does the offset still get added to the values in the function?


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: 85_GT on November 21, 2011, 10:01:58 am
Wrong cranking pw function.  You want the one right above it. Cranking vs ect.

Injector offset vs batt.  That's the toughest one for me.  Ideally, you want to have a common injector with the spec values.  You don't just multiply.  It depends on the injector. Newer 30's actually have larger values then the older style 30s.

  First I've heard of cranking vs time being wrong. Really look at the last two tunes... Regardless of where the changes are cranking fuel will be the same.

   As far as load and WOT... You have the scalar Z_WSPKSW enabled. You are pulling WOT spark from your timing table. Your load calculations are going to be different and need to be tuned. I would stay away from enabling Z_WSPKSW for now just set function ( Spark - WOT Advance vs RPM ) to some thing like this....

16383.75   31.00
6000.00   32.00
5000.00   32.00
4500.00   32.00
3500.00   32.00
2800.00   25.00
1800.00   22.00
1000.00   16.00
0.00   0.00

   Maybe 85_GT can enlighten us on how load is calculated.....



 :smile
No, he was in the wrong function, not that what he entered was wrong.  He was questioning why cranking vs time was all 1's and asking how to mod it.  He needs to be in cranking vs ect and scale that for his injector change.  Though, I guess if you have for some reason a long crank, you could play with the vs time function to either pull fuel as you keep cranking, or add. 

Yes, agree with bender, keep it simple.  Just use the WOT timing Function instead of the tables for now.

Me, enlighten the master...  :dunno

Anyways, you'll notice the tables will use either load or load%.  Spark will use load (VE) and fueling will use load%  Load is percent of actual air getting in versus the theoretical max (based on cubic inches) at any given RPM. 


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: bender460 on November 21, 2011, 01:46:03 pm
   Crank vs ect is the commanded PW and vs time is an adder. Either way ect or time accomplishes the same thing. Your way.....my way...blah... just don't say I'm wrong. I'ts just two different ways to skin the same cat.

 :smile

   I still can't see where he asked why cranking vs. time was all 1's and how to change it.. :dunno  I do see him asking if the same correction would apply to injector voltage offset. Injector voltage offset is not only size but actual brand and style specific as well.. Two different brands or styles of the same brand will have a different curve.

 :smile



  I'll dig up a voltage offset curve for the old red top 30's tonight. If that is in fact the injector being used.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: cheese_05_70 on November 21, 2011, 03:46:23 pm
Yes I have red top 30s old style im on my phone right now but Im pretty sure I had z_wspk disabled if I don't I wanted it to be. I understand there is different ways so I thank you for your help I dont want u guys to not post because of it.

Should I adjust the vs. Ext and fine tune with the vs. Time or is one way just as good as the other. I don't know if this changes anything but when the car is warm it will not start without giving it gas. When cold fires right up.

BENDER what are you looking at in that last two tunes that shows you that its the same either way? Thanks on the timing thing I will check it out but that would be how to command what your wot timing would be?

Yea that's what I was trying to do maybe I disabled and hit arrow key and it reenabled thanks for catching it. I wanted it disable from the eectuning article sorry for the confusion. You guys are great help. Let me know anything else that needs to be addressed

Thanks
Colby


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: cheese_05_70 on November 21, 2011, 05:40:39 pm
Guys i looked at tune and it says Z_wspksw is disabled. I aloso cant find Spark WOT advance Vs rpm function? Do you mean spark- spark and fuel lugging load vs rpm?

Here is what i did if it helps.
http://eectuning.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=16800 (http://eectuning.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=16800)

Thanks


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: fidstang on November 21, 2011, 06:24:31 pm
Nope, I wasn't asking what components you were using, but rather what changes to the hardware. Like removed egr, smog, ac, etc.......

But, I think we're past that now. As for the reading on EECtuning, slow down, one step at a time because if you try to go to fast you can corrupt you tune quickly.

The spark WOT advance vs. rpm function is in the the functions tab. But, with the Z_wspksw disabled, the hack removes all of the functions related to spark-WOT.

I think the best thing to do is just start with your base tune and modify only what has changed. Then slowly progress into the spark and fuel logic. Then start deciding which method you want to use for spark and fuel. Then after getting that far and understanding your datalogs, refine the table scaling to match your needs.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: cheese_05_70 on November 21, 2011, 06:47:37 pm
Oh ok sorry fidistang i dont have A/c, Smog or Canister. Got egr tho. Well i have read alot on there but the only thing i used was the timing thing.

Thats basically what i was trying to do just change the injectors and components that have changed. I had to see how it worked real quick so i started it just to see what it would do it  has a nasty surge so it died and i quit. I know  :msorry: just had to see it im like a kid at christmas.

So i should i re-enable the timing things and leave that stock and just change the maf TB and injectors? What do you mean by which method i want to use for spark and fuel?

Just by looking at the datalogs how would one know what to adjust on the table scaling? or you make small adjustments and see what it does?

Thanks


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: 85_GT on November 21, 2011, 06:53:06 pm
   Crank vs ect is the commanded PW and vs time is an adder. Either way ect or time accomplishes the same thing. Your way.....my way...blah... just don't say I'm wrong. I'ts just two different ways to skin the same cat.

 :smile

   I still can't see where he asked why cranking vs. time was all 1's and how to change it.. :dunno  I do see him asking if the same correction would apply to injector voltage offset. Injector voltage offset is not only size but actual brand and style specific as well.. Two different brands or styles of the same brand will have a different curve.

 :smile



  I'll dig up a voltage offset curve for the old red top 30's tonight. If that is in fact the injector being used.
Oh, ok, I can see what you were saying in your original post.  Thought he was looking at the wrong table.  But yes, I can see using that table to do the same thing.  Never thought about using it that way.  


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: fidstang on November 21, 2011, 07:19:28 pm
Oh ok sorry fidistang i dont have A/c, Smog or Canister. Got egr tho. Well i have read alot on there but the only thing i used was the timing thing.

Thats basically what i was trying to do just change the injectors and components that have changed. I had to see how it worked real quick so i started it just to see what it would do it  has a nasty surge so it died and i quit. I know  :msorry: just had to see it im like a kid at christmas.

So i should i re-enable the timing things and leave that stock and just change the maf TB and injectors? What do you mean by which method i want to use for spark and fuel?

Just by looking at the datalogs how would one know what to adjust on the table scaling? or you make small adjustments and see what it does?

Thanks

I'm saying to start with a fresh OEM tune. Change the MAF, injector settings, and disable the smog, canister settings.

Take the car out for some rides, I would force open loop and compare the datalog readings to my wideband to make sure the injector settings/MAF transfer are optimal. Then return it to enable closed loop, clear KAM's and datalog for another ride.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: bender460 on November 21, 2011, 07:50:19 pm
   Here is what eec anayzer spits out for a voltage offset.

19.60   0.6333
18.00   0.6333
16.00   0.6333
14.80   0.6333
14.40   0.6333
14.00   0.6344
13.60   0.6610
13.20   0.6877
13.00   0.7175
12.80   0.7690
12.40   0.8230
12.00   0.8854
11.60   0.9073
11.20   0.9312
11.00   0.9592
10.80   1.0850
10.40   1.2083
10.00   1.3405
9.60   1.4020
9.00   1.4667
9.00   1.5383
8.80   1.7087
8.40   1.8710
8.00   2.0394
7.60   2.3700
7.20   2.7000
7.00   3.0400
6.80   3.7900
6.40   4.2900
6.00   4.6800
5.50   7.0000
5.20   7.0000
4.80   7.0000
3.20   7.0000
1.60   7.0000
0.00   7.0000

 
   I "think" those are the EV6's.

   Here is what ford says for the red tops...
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/ics/m-9593-b302.pdf


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: bender460 on November 21, 2011, 08:06:39 pm
  Been googling the last 1/2 hour here is what I keep coming up with for injector settings for the red tops..

Hi slope 30.23
low slope 32.82
breakpoint 2.1338  <-- Last injector tune item.. Function (Fuel - Injector Breakpoint)
 
 voltage offset

15.9375...0.4375
14.0000...0.5313
13.0000...0.6250
12.0000...0.7188
11.0000...0.8750
10.0000...1.0625
8.0000....   1.6563
6.0000....   3.2500
5.0000....   3.2500
4.0000....   3.2500
3.0000....   3.2500
0.0000....   3.2500


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: fidstang on November 21, 2011, 08:27:52 pm
I believe the low slope should be 36ish. breakpoint and offset looks good. Don't forget to change the Cranking PW vs. ECT function.

Your ISC settings are a bit trickier. You will need to ensure that you have your MAF transfer, injector settings and idle/tps set correctly first.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: cheese_05_70 on November 21, 2011, 11:43:55 pm
fidstang thats what I meant i will keep this one for now but start over on a new one and take baby steps and see how that goes i was thinking this after i tried to start it and it idles better on the stock tune. I was in a hurry earlier i had to meet the fiance at home depot.
 
This is what i will do to new tune. that way everyone knows what took place and were all on the same page. how i should of started in the first place sorry guy
Hi slope 30.23
low slope 32.82-36 ish see what works best.
breakpoint 2.1338  <-- Last injector tune item.. Function (Fuel - Injector Breakpoint)
 
 voltage offset

15.9375...0.4375
14.0000...0.5313
13.0000...0.6250
12.0000...0.7188
11.0000...0.8750
10.0000...1.0625
8.0000....   1.6563
6.0000....   3.2500
5.0000....   3.2500
4.0000....   3.2500
3.0000....   3.2500
0.0000....   3.2500
Thanks fid and bender
Maf transfer
16.000   1542.585
5.000   1542.585
4.800   1381.888
4.600   1233.865
4.400   1097.248
4.200   971.529
4.100   912.726
3.900   802.468
3.700   702.350
3.500   611.103
3.300   528.727
3.200   490.707
3.000   419.991
2.800   357.131
2.600   301.116
2.500   275.769
2.300   229.132
2.100   188.578
1.900   153.346
1.700   122.930
1.600   109.750
1.400   85.924
1.200   65.901
1.000   49.426
.800   36.245
.700   30.669
.500   21.291
.300   14.194
.100   9.125
.000   7.350

Cranking pw vs ect
65534   1.27
180   1.27
150   1.46
70   3.61
40   6.65
20   8.96
0   13.85
-20   24.54
-65536   24.54

Set idle to 725-750ish
Set TB to 75
Thanks david clafflin
Disable smog and canister purge

Im not real worried about rev limit right now but i would like to know the correct and safest way to use it?

This is what will be adjusted on this new tune now where do i need to go from there?

New tune attached im getting better.

Thanks
Colby


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: cheese_05_70 on November 22, 2011, 03:53:55 pm
Took it for a ride on new tune it at least idled cold i think some of it is i need to do the idle reset to get the base whewre it needs to be then command the idle i want. So idle was a little choppy. It was raining so not a good time to play but it runs better than what it did from the buttometer. 


I got code 15, 33, and 66 showing up. I think the 66 is fan wash on my MAF. Unless it could be from having such a large meter?

I took a couple logs but they probably arent much help cause i was in and out of the throttle a lot. 
My timing seems high it would run at about 38 at cruising throttle.Let me know what i should adjust im going to figure out and fix my codes. Also might just be the nature of it but it likes to but at low rpms below 1500 and when changing gears.

I attached datalog anyways dont know if its much help its long but from ET102 on i was in third gear and gradually got in it with out spinning. at 111 I let off throttle and maf v were practically nothing.

what should i be datalogging i just checked everything that i thought has something to do with engine. I unchecked a few that were zero or all 1. Also when i get wideband hooked up does it automatially put it in the data log?

Let me know
Thanks


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: fidstang on November 22, 2011, 05:02:13 pm
Rule 1:
Never beat on an engine when it is not up to operating temps, the oil is cold and will not protect your engine properly. Also, data logging when you are not at a stable ECT places many variables in the pictures.

Rule 2:
Never beat on an engine when you do not know if the tune is correct. Without a wideband installed, it will be very hard to know if you are lean because the car goes into open loop and the LAMBSE's will read what the table cell value is at that load and rpm.

Rule 3:
Before tuning idle, your TPS and idle rpm must be set correctly first. Your cam is very similar to mine and will like to idle around 800-900rpm to maintain good vacuum.

I would highly recommend you follow the base idle reset guide. In my case I set it to idle at 800rpm with the IAC disconnected and set my TPS to .96volts because I like to maintain vacuum for my power brakes and at 800rpm I am still pulling 10" of mercury.
Then get that wide band hooked up before anymore WOT runs.

Let us know when you get the base idle reset procedure completed. Post a log of just your car at idle with and without the IAC plugged in. Don't forget to let the car warm up completely before doing anything.

As for the timing being high at low loads, SBF's like a lot of timing at cruising loads. Mine sees 40-41 at 20-30% loads at cruise. No issues there.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: 85_GT on November 22, 2011, 05:17:19 pm
I found adding the ISCKAM's and ipsibr to the dashboard payload a quicker way if dialing in idle air.  Doesn't take into account the ISC tranfer function, but gets the idle pretty spot on for up to 700 RPM I've needed.

You just adjust the throttle body air until the KAM's are about zero and ipsibr stops moving in either direction.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: cheese_05_70 on November 22, 2011, 08:31:40 pm
I knew about rule one but i thought as long as the engine was "warmed up" that it was ok. I know it wasnt to operating temp. I obiviously couldnt beat on it too hard with the rain but still not an excuse beacause i relize you are just looking out for my engine. Thanks wont do it ever again.

Rule 2 crossed my mind but since it was just a mildly modifidied stock tune I figured it would be alright. I dont have a WB yet plus its parked for the winter. So i wont be driving it.

Rule three I wasnt going to do anything else to the idle until i get the base idle and tps set for sure.

Im fairly sure thats what the idle is set at now 800 iac disconnected and spout pulled and tps 0.95 now i thought it should be more around <700.  I will set it exactly how the article says to from this site.

Ok i will do i will double check the base idle and post a datalog of idle with it disconnected and with it plugged in.

So timing at cruise isnt that high; good its just stock but wasnt sure.
 What voltage does tps need to trigger WOT i thought it was over 4v?

Ok i added them to datalog and that throttle air your talking about is ITHBMA correct?
I can set idle without a WB right?

Also is my code 66 from fan wash or is it just because it is and 80mm and not much air moving through at idle?

Isnt there a way to clear codes through QH too?

Thanks guys for your help and looking out for me.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: 85_GT on November 22, 2011, 10:21:36 pm

Ok i added them to datalog and that throttle air your talking about is ITHBMA correct?
I can set idle without a WB right?

Also is my code 66 from fan wash or is it just because it is and 80mm and not much air moving through at idle?

Isnt there a way to clear codes through QH too?

Thanks guys for your help and looking out for me.
Yes, don't need WB for getting idle air set. 
Besides just logging them by selecting them in the datalog tab, I meant I add them to my dashboard tab as another readout and watch them 'live'.  Then I just go in and adjust ITHBMA so they start zeroing in.  If an ISCKAM clips (stock is +- .400), you'll drop out of idle control.  I just use ISCKAM0 and 2 so I see what's happening in drive and neutral.  The other two are for when a/c is on.  Those can be tuned afterwards if you have a/c.  Don't need the drive one if it's a stick.

66 means you maf voltage is lower then expected.  Not sure what the curve of a 80mm pro M is.  EA just has a pro m 30 which should still have enough voltage at idle air.  Any air getting in unmetered? Open breather?  Watch you MAFV in the dashboard when it's idling.  It might be occurring if the idle is hunting up and down.  You can adjust the clip value VMAMIN to the lowest value in your maf curve.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: 85_GT on November 22, 2011, 10:24:45 pm
Ah, just saw your curve further up.  I would think idle air would be above the stock VMAMIN of .375.  If it dips below that, you'll get a 66.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: 85_GT on November 23, 2011, 01:12:15 pm
To make it a little easier, I attached my dashboard.  It has the ISCKAMS and ipsibr.  It also corrects the OL indicator which doesn't work correctly out of the box.

Just rename yours to .bak and insert this one into your C:\Program Files\BinaryEditor\Config\Dashboard\Dashboard0.DSH directory

Unzip first


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: cheese_05_70 on November 27, 2011, 12:49:27 am
Thanks for the dashboard. If you would can you explain how you modified it? and how u fixed OL indicator just trying to learn all i can. Hopefully tommorrow i can do a base idle reset and get see what the idle and MAF are doing. I'm going to make a sheild for my MAF meter to keep from fan washing.   No umetered air that i know of pcv is hooked up and no leaks but i will check it out too.


Under TP in the dashboard is a blank cell that says TS when u click on it. Whats it for and whats it do?
Thanks
Colby


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: 85_GT on November 27, 2011, 02:21:38 am
Thanks for the dashboard. If you would can you explain how you modified it? and how u fixed OL indicator just trying to learn all i can. Hopefully tommorrow i can do a base idle reset and get see what the idle and MAF are doing. I'm going to make a sheild for my MAF meter to keep from fan washing.   No umetered air that i know of pcv is hooked up and no leaks but i will check it out too.


Under TP in the dashboard is a blank cell that says TS when u click on it. Whats it for and whats it do?
Thanks
Colby
TS is throttle state.  That's another one I needed to correct.  It can be 3 different values: -1, 0, 1.  -1 means the ecu considers it at closed throttle and displays CT, basically foot off the gas.  0 means partial throttle PT, everything between CT and the last one WOT.

If you right click in the dashboard, if you unselect 'lock dashboard'  then you can move things around, resize, etc.  although it's a bit tricky till you get the hang of it.  But you can add things to, either analog gauges, digital, indicators etc.  Whatever you add, you need to then pick a payload item for it be fed by. 

In the case of flag bits, such as OL, open loop, you then need to pick what you want displayed for each possible bit condition, 0 or 1.  Forget what the factory was exactly, but if either had the CL or OL backwards and the color too I believe.  So I corrected so 1= OL and  red, 0=CL and display green.

So if there is anything you want else monitored 'live', you would just do an add.  You can then save and load different dashboards also with a focus on what you may be tuning.  Mine has enough of what I need and big enough that I can glance at it as needed. 

Another nice feature it the trace function.  It puts a yellow dot in the active at the moment cells in the tables and functions.  So, say you hear a little pinging at times but not sure what to mod.  You can look and see what cell you're in at that moment then go fix it.  Like say you hear ping at the 1500RPM column, but only at a load of say 50.  You go in a pull a few degrees out of that cell.  Then listen for more.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: cheese_05_70 on November 27, 2011, 10:58:30 am
Thanks 85GT that helps alot. I unlocked it last night after i posted didnt change anything just looked at some things. Now I know what I have to do if i want add something though.

The trace function is the yellow dot on the tables and it will only show up on the tables currently being usedf by the EEC. Just making sure i understand correctly.

Really this stuff isnt that hard it is just complicated and worded technical. For a person just getting started you dont want to adjust the wrong thing. So i always second guess and double check when I really dont need too.

For datalogging the flags are sensors not working properly correct? I got them all turned on to make sure nothing is haywire.

Thanks
Colby


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: 85_GT on November 27, 2011, 11:34:52 am
Having played with carburetors for years, yes this is way easier.  Not hard at all.  Just like you said, you need to learn the lingo.  There's lots of good info available on all the values, tables, etc.  But on the tool itself, not so much.  You kinda pick it up on your own and/or ask questions.

Flags are not just bad sensors.  In fact, they are hardly that. They are yes/no indicators of lots of things going on the ecu that isn't a sensor.  Such as, if ac on or off, in drive or neutral, in closed loop or not, the hegos are at operating temp, etc.

'bad' sensors are just ones whose values our higher or lower then the values set in the scalar section.

I found the yellow trace dot shows up even in tables that aren't maybe in effect too. Like say, base, sealevel and altitude timing tables will all show for me as I still have all 3 in effect.  Even though I should be off base, it still shows.  But as you start to understand, you know which to look at.

Now get out there and start playing and have fun with this stuff :)


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: cheese_05_70 on November 29, 2011, 01:51:07 pm
Not trying to be dumb just want to have correct procedure.

Does base idle reset have to be done with the engine to operating temp?

To set isc's does it need to be to operating temp or cold?

Cold I get surging with iac disconnected.

Thanks


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: cheese_05_70 on November 29, 2011, 06:09:59 pm
Heres is a log at idle at operating temp. About midway through i unplugged IAC and then plugged it back in at the end.

My ISCkams dont move. I would like to see my idle more stable than this.

How do you guys look at these logs through EA?

Thanks


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: fidstang on November 29, 2011, 09:35:06 pm
Not trying to be dumb just want to have correct procedure.

Does base idle reset have to be done with the engine to operating temp?

To set isc's does it need to be to operating temp or cold?

Cold I get surging with iac disconnected.

Thanks

everything should be done with the engine at operating temps (i.e. warm). Get your idle set, then we will worry about setting the isc's. If your idle is hunting after it is at operating temps, you will need to look at your logs to determine what is happening. It maybe that you are getting to much fuel and the spark is increasing to correct the condition.

I would suggest locking out the idle timing to 20* by setting the global spark scalar to 20 and spark multiplier scalar to 0. That will force your spark to be locked out at 20*btdc.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: cheese_05_70 on November 29, 2011, 11:08:18 pm
Thats what I did just wanted to make sure i was doing it right. Then this evening i started it and unhooked IAC and it died (cold). I didnt readjust it, I just let it warm up and then it would idle with it unhooked.

It likes to hunt for idle. And tomorrow night i will double check the base idle reset and set what you told me and get another log.

I dont know what to look for to tell whats going on but from my novice eyes that looks like what is happening. I wouldnt of put 2 and 2 together without your help but from looking at the log at idle my timing is anywhere from 18 - 30*..

 How can you tell what the flags are spitting out?
Would it help if i had a registered version of EA to help me diagnose things?

thanks


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: 85_GT on November 30, 2011, 08:57:49 am
Heres is a log at idle at operating temp. About midway through i unplugged IAC and then plugged it back in at the end.

My ISCkams dont move. I would like to see my idle more stable than this.

How do you guys look at these logs through EA?

Thanks
Took a quick look.  Doesn't look horrible. Your ISCkam is moving.  It's growing slowly (doesn't move that fast) and your IPSIBR looks maxed out.  What is your PSIBRM and PSIBRN set to? .4?  Since it's growing with a max'd out IPSIBR, your ITHBMA is too high.  Knock it down by .4 and see what it does.

You say it's hunting.  Didn't really see that much variation in the log.  Sure it's not lope you're talking about?  Hunting is when RPM's keep swing a couple hundred up and down at slow rate of about a 1-2 second rate.

Your spark is all over the place as the EEC uses spark for rapid spark control.  ISC control is slower.
The spark control is in function FN841N: Idle - Spark Mult vs Neutral RPM Error
Mine did the same and Crey8 recommend some values to 'tone down' it's affect since it in itself can exaggerate the condition.  Like was mentioned.  You lock you timing to see if it's the cause.  My function has me at 26deg at idle with no error (rpm delta from desired RPM).  You can see it's affect when you unplugged the ISC.  Idle dropped, and EEC tried to correct with the function by maxing out spark to 30deg.

When you set your idle speed, what value did you mod?  Should have been NUBASE.  There is another scalar, IDLRPM that needs to be set a little higher then your NUBASE.  If actual RPM's exceed IDLRPM, this tells the EEC it is not in an IDLE condition and IDLE control stops.  You look like you're ok as your ISCFLAG is 1 meaning it's in RPM control.  ISFLAG is 2 which is correct, neutral with no AC on.  Hence matches up with ISCKAM2.

Unplugging the ISC when it's cold, I would expect it to die.  I would consider that normal.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: cheese_05_70 on November 30, 2011, 10:30:28 am
I will recheck everything tonight. I thought the kam moved faster sorry. Ok so I want ipsibr below 0.400. Pisibrm-n are factory settings.

I guess hunting and to be more stable isn't what I should of used. It seems erratic when's its idle just doesn't sound and feel right.

I will do that tonight lock the timing like fid said. Is yours locked too? Or you just adjusted the table or function?

I modified the scalar above ithbma and nothing else for idle.
For an 850 idle rpm modify nubase to 825 then idlrpm to 850? Something like that?

Im just trying to give as much info as I can. I have never messed with or tried to understand any of this. So I feel like a retard but I hope its just the.learning process. Im hands on so I can read until im blue in the face and still don't get it. Thanks for your time and patience.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: 85_GT on November 30, 2011, 12:29:24 pm
Just the learning process, that's all.  No shame.

ipsibr and ISCkam are the equivalent of short term and long term fuel trims.

As ISCkam dials itself in, ipsibr will eventually get itself to 0.  If you let the car idle long enough for that to happen, then that final ISCkam is the amount you need to adjust the ITHBMA by, assuming the ISCkam doesn't get clipped.

There will always be a little bit of movement if you watch it in the dashboard.  Typically as come back down to a stop and relevels itself off.


In either case, letting the kam adjust or correcting ITHBMA, the car will get to idling a little better.  You'll see the cold start RPM increase act more properly, etc.  Only time it will revert is if you rely on the kam and then disconnect the battery.  It will have to relearn again.

The idle quality, that may be the case of the AFR.  I know my cam has idled pretty smoothly in the past with a carb and then the FI that was out of wack.  Now that it is working correctly, I see it likes a richer mixture at idle then the 14.7 that happens when I'm in closed loop.  A little tough to fix with a GUFx strategy.  Can't easily force open loop for just idle.

Your nubase is your target rpm.  So there would be the 850.  It will probably be a few off once you enter it.  Maybe 848, something like that.  For idlrpm, you could put in something like a 1000.

I don't have my timing locked.  I adjusted the function and let other adders/multipliers do there thing.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: cheese_05_70 on November 30, 2011, 04:42:12 pm
That makes more sense. The way the first post about ipsibr was posted made me think it was supposed to stay at. 400. It now makes a little more sense it started to come down so I upped ithma to get it back to 0.400.

I will get to it tonight. Im excited last night I was aggravated cause 2+2 was = 5. Once I get on the right track things make mote sense.

Thanks keep the lesson coming.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: 85_GT on November 30, 2011, 07:05:34 pm
That makes more sense. The way the first post about ipsibr was posted made me think it was supposed to stay at. 400. It now makes a little more sense it started to come down so I upped ithma to get it back to 0.400.

I will get to it tonight. Im excited last night I was aggravated cause 2+2 was = 5. Once I get on the right track things make mote sense.

Thanks keep the lesson coming.
Just to be clear, the goal is to get ipsibr AND isckam as close as possible to 0.  If your isckam is climbing positive, you need to LOWER ithma to get isckam to go down.

And the opposite is true too, if isckam settles at a negative value, then increase ithma by that amount.

This should get you to an isckam that's better (less) the +-.01.  I'll typically hit about .003-5.  At that point it's good enough.

Oops, you can disregard this, as I proof read and reread your post, I realize you got it.  But this might help others.  Maybe one day we'll get merc69 into efi.  ;)


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: bender460 on November 30, 2011, 07:44:54 pm
That makes more sense. The way the first post about ipsibr was posted made me think it was supposed to stay at. 400. It now makes a little more sense it started to come down so I upped ithma to get it back to 0.400.

I will get to it tonight. Im excited last night I was aggravated cause 2+2 was = 5. Once I get on the right track things make mote sense.

Thanks keep the lesson coming.
Just to be clear, the goal is to get ipsibr AND isckam as close as possible to 0.  If your isckam is climbing positive, you need to LOWER ithma to get isckam to go down.

And the opposite is true too, if isckam settles at a negative value, then increase ithma by that amount.

This should get you to an isckam that's better (less) the +-.01.  I'll typically hit about .003-5.  At that point it's good enough.

Oops, you can disregard this, as I proof read and reread your post, I realize you got it.  But this might help others.  Maybe one day we'll get merc69 into efi.  ;)

   That would be the day..  ;D


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: cheese_05_70 on November 30, 2011, 11:18:36 pm
I looked and cant find what fid was talking about. I found everything else and it makes sense on (+-0.400). I was adjusting nubase but not the other idle rpm. So that should help i would think. I got that setup saved and then i was going to do what fid said and try it both ways. But i cant find any global spark and spark multiplier.

69merc im sure will really stick to his carbs after he reads this thread of mind.

Thanks


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: cheese_05_70 on December 01, 2011, 06:34:15 pm
Base Idle is good i rechecked it. Here is another log with just the idle rpms adjusted right and ithma lowered. i still got to adjust it and reset kam but at least i understand what its doing.

I couldnt lock out timing like fid said to do i couldnt figure it out. Then my computer died but here is a log with iac plugged in and unplugged. It idles better not near as much swing on start up. Still feels and sounds a little choppy at times. Its not cam lope cause it is more of a vibration and too fast for cam lope. Like its struggling a little.

Thanks.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: 85_GT on December 01, 2011, 07:42:28 pm
Looking good.  isckam is down about where mine runs.  Fuel kams look great too.
Didn't want to speculate on what values fid was recommending so as not to make the same misunderstanding of I made with what bender said. :)

But... here's a template of my current spark timing:
 
idle spark multiplier vs neutral error,
idle spark vs ect
and
idle spark vs rpm

Should work though it came from my GUF1, I edited it for GUFB.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: 85_GT on December 01, 2011, 07:53:33 pm
Maybe one day we'll get merc69 into efi. [/color] ;)

   That would be the day..  ;D

Could you imagine... a 408W from fordstrokers with a 5000 t/c and EFI.... :burnout


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: fidstang on December 14, 2011, 03:59:01 pm


I couldnt lock out timing like fid said to do i couldnt figure it out.

Thanks.


Sorry, my laptop died thanks to a power loss in the middle of a search index.

I'm not sure what the hacks or scalars are for GUFB, in CABZA they are what I listed.

If you want, you can pull the PIP and advance the timing to 20* manually.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: wywindsor on December 27, 2011, 08:36:35 pm
 To all with efi and those who shy away. There's a reason efi runs well and carbs can't get the same result. I hope 1 day merc69 will join as the rest on this site. Thanks for the lessons here from the one's that donate. Horsepower and mpg in the same sentence.


                  Ray


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: cheese_05_70 on April 11, 2012, 07:57:42 am
Here you go 85_GT. Thanks for the help.

I loaded datalog in for injector slopes and here is what EA spit out.

High 30 Low 29.75

Breakpoint 0.75

I attached Datalog and tune.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: 85_GT on April 11, 2012, 01:22:25 pm
Just taking a quick look in excel as I don't have EA here, looks like your KAMs were trending downward until they started clipping about 20 minutes into it.  Then something happened and they jumped back up.   Either the eec did it or maybe you changed something on the fly?

Either way looks like you need more fuel.  What are the current injector settings now vs the new recommended?  If that low slope is really less then the high from EA, you may need more injector offset. 

Which 30's do you have, skinnny or fat?  Can't open the bin here either.  What values do you have at 13 and 14v in the offset vs voltage function?

Your MAF values look 'within expected range' for your combo.  Although a little surprising that you could get it that high while still in closed loop.  You were open loop for all of about 4 seconds at one instance.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: cheese_05_70 on April 11, 2012, 02:52:24 pm
Nope I didn't change anything. I actually noticed the kams while i was driving. They were staying in the high 8'sI then all of a sudden the were bac at one working there way back down.

I pulled into a parking lot before I started logging engine was warm and check engine light flickered a few times and never did it the rest of the night. Pulled into get some ice cream it was good to go.

Fat body 30's with pro-m 80mm meter. Injector settings now are what I posted on last page I cant remember.

I was five min away from home when datalog stopped I didn't shut it off . It froze and stopped logging had to close Be. Yea at the end I got on it a little I wasn't Wot yet. I never did make me a maf shield that way im not reading fan air.

Only things I have changed in tune is thing on previous page and the few things you told me to recently. I will get on my computer tonight if you need more information let me know.know


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: 85_GT on April 11, 2012, 10:24:30 pm
Here you go 85_GT. Thanks for the help.

I loaded datalog in for injector slopes and here is what EA spit out.

High 30 Low 29.75

Breakpoint 0.75

I attached Datalog and tune.
I got High 29.73 Low 37.06

BP .68

That's about a 1.6% fuel increase over what's in your bin.  Doesn't quite explain why KAMs go as much as 12% and clip.  But give it a try

Observations:
You selected E10 for AFR.  Might want to try putting it back to gasoline.  I find it easier to just work in gasoline or lambda.  Did you do that because pumps say 'contain 10%...' ? 

If you leave as gasoline, then you don't have to change LC-1, tables, etc.  Working in gasoline, everything will work out to stoic being and displaying as 14.7.  Even though the actual will be around 14.08.

Also you kept egr and disabled thermactor.  Are the heads plugged properly not to allow any air in?

EA's MAF calculation showed it to be very close.  Most within a percent.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: cheese_05_70 on April 12, 2012, 10:48:53 am
I worked late last night and didn't get on computer. What did I do wrong when I ran it through Ea.  How did you run it and get those values? I want to see if I can come up with the same.

Lesson time what you mean by clipped?

I didn't mean to keep it on e10 I was looking for them values the other night and changed it with the scroll wheel on the mouse trying to go down. I thought I had it on straight gas.

Yes no smog or a/c but still have egr. Heads are plugged. properly.

Also are my maf voltages getting that high without.going wot a concern?

I 'm going to get off work earlier so hopefully I can get on the comp and get everything on the same page.



Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: 85_GT on April 12, 2012, 01:34:34 pm
It'll be easier to walk thru the injection slope calc with it in front of me.  Have to be once I'm home.

Clipped - numerous values in the eec have defined limits.  You want to avoid hitting those limits.  When something like KAM's get to that limit, but still needs to go more.  The EEC stops it from going beyond those limits.  That's called being clipped.  Another example is the MAF.  Once you hit the top voltage of your MAF curve, even if more air does flow, the eec won't know as it stops at that top value.

If you look at:
MAXADP   Fuel - Adaptive Control KAMRF Maximum and
MINADP   Fuel - Adaptive Control KAMRF Minimum
in the scalars tab, you'll see what the eec is using for the high and low limits for KAMs.  .88ish is the low stock limit.  If the kams get to that limit and the eec sees it needs more, eventually it might not be able to add enough fuel to switch the hego back to rich.  EEC will eventually go in to alternate fueling strategy which is probably what happened.

No concern on the maf values.  You were actually fairly high in the rpm's.  In the 5000 range.  Load values show you were at 80% so you were pretty near WOT even if the pedal wasn't  Looks like it was around half way.

Maf voltages still have some to go before they are far clipping.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: cheese_05_70 on May 13, 2012, 12:42:17 am
If anyone is reading this. i had electrical interference with Quarter horse it ended up being my spark plug wires. Taylors wires have some issues with computer controled things like dynos and quarterhorse.

and here is a datalog


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: juiced coupe on May 13, 2012, 05:50:46 am
If anyone is reading this. i had electrical interference with Quarter horse it ended up being my spark plug wires. Taylors wires have some issues with computer controled things like dynos and quarterhorse.

I had forgot about it until you posted that, but I had a friend that had similar issues with Taylor wires. That was years ago, would have thought things had changed.

Anyway, we just used FMS/FR wires on efi cars after that. Just one less problem to worry about.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: cheese_05_70 on May 13, 2012, 07:54:13 am
Yea I talked to local tuner Bob monks aka Bobcat. I told him what it was doing he says I know your problem your car has Taylor wires on it doesn't it. I said yea very skeptical at first. Then he gave me his experience with them. Tried it and that was the problem. He said every car that he has ever tuned that had them he has had problem with.
fms wires work good.

Now I need to get this bitch dialed in. I need better gas mileage and more power. Plus it seems my afr is kinda all over the place. Anywhere from 15.5 to 12.13. I want to learn even if it kills me.

Thanks
Colby


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: 69 Merc on May 13, 2012, 09:57:05 am
I'm glad that you found your problem with those nasty Taylor wires.    :)


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: cheese_05_70 on May 13, 2012, 11:26:31 pm
First one from sat night
second is from tonight I changed injector parameters and cleared kams
Third is me playing around a little bit i was excited i could see what was happening again plus its was a good night to give it a little gas.


Title: Re: Quartehorse tuning help newbie
Post by: 85_GT on May 13, 2012, 11:30:55 pm
I'll give a look see tomorrow.  Just got back a little while ago from mom's day :)