'93 Coupe EFI 347 Rebuild

Bear with me, I’m a wordy SOB. I really appreciate any advice you guys have for me.

A little about me first. I am an adrenaholic. I have been since I was 16. It has been a few years since my last 1320. I recently finished digging myself out of a debt hole, and like any self-respecting adrenaholic I dug another hole and bought the coupe "I've always wanted." My first Mustang was a '65 coupe, three speed, 200ci straight six, which I still own as a rolling chassis. After that I bought a '89 LX hatch 5-spd, later a 90 GT AOD for a short while, and then a '88 GT vert 5-spd. I also have a '66 F100 with a 352ci and three on the tree. My gas saver (45mpg) and parts getter is a ’90 Civic 1.5L 5-spd.

A little about my finances. I broke my “no debt” rule by getting this car in the first place. I absolutely will not be charging parts left and right to get this thing running, but there is a little wiggle room there. I am getting married in April of next year, so I’m also saving money for that and the honeymoon. In other words, like most people I’m on a tight budget normally and now it’s extra snug.

Moving on to the nitty gritty. After dropping a valve, blowing a head gasket, and finding two damaged pistons, having only driven the car for 650 miles, I have put a high priority on reliability. That being said I still want this car to take me into new ET territory. The fastest I’ve been was a high 11 ¼ mile. This car weighs around 3100lb with me in it. My driving skills are no doubt rusty, so for now I’d be giddy with an 11 sec pass, but the goal is to run 10s consistently. After that’s done I’ll move on to the ’65.

I am open to all feedback and suggestions. I will be doing the entire build myself, less the machine work. I’ve built a 305 and a couple of 302s before, but never at this level of performance. I want to build this one “right.” I have most of the tools necessary. I’m patient and very meticulous.

Here are the main parts that came with the car:

1. Original ’93 302 roller YYY block, cryogenically hardened block and caps, stroker clearance
2. Billet main girdle
3. ARP fasteners/studs throughout
4. Eagle 347 stroker kit, forged 4340 crank and forged 4340 h-beam rods (getting new pistons)
5. Old trick flow high port 192cc heads; 64 or 69cc chamber TFS couldn’t tell me, steel 2.08/160s,
“stage III” ported by Ed Curtis, FTI PS4 dual springs (155# at 1.850”, .650” lift capable),
hardened spring locators
6. Harland sharp 1.6 rockers with hardened guide plates
7. TFS 5/16” chromoly hardened 6.2” .080” wall push rods (I know I need to re-measure)
8. Comp Cams High Energy hydraulic roller lifters
9. Cloyes Billet double roller timing chain set
10. TFS 28oz harmonic damper
11. Edelbrock Victor 5.0 upper and lower (came with Holley Systemax, but I sold it to help fund the rebuild)
12. BBK 75mm TB with 75mm EGR delete plate
13. AFM 3.5” power pipe (which for some reason the seller covered in electrical tape, WTF?)
14. Pro-M 80mm “shorty” MAF with a 10” cone K&N
15. Underdrive pulleys
16. Mallory adj. fuel pressure regulator (originally set at 50psi !?), with the gauge on the line
17. 255lph intank pump
18. Flowtech Induction “custom” cam specs straight off the card:
a. P/N: NA-22S18F-HR10 +4*
b. Valve adjustment: I/E .0”
c. Lobe lift: I .38”, E .375”
d. Gross valve lift 1.6 ratio: I .608”, E .6”
e. Duration at .050” tappet lift: I 240*, E 248*
f. Lobe separation: 110*
g. Recommended intake centerline: 106*
h. Specs at 106* intake centerline, .050 tappet lift:
i. Intake valve timing at OPEN: 14* BTDC
ii. Intake valve timing at CLOSE: 46* ABDC
iii. Exhaust valve timing at OPEN: 58* BBDC
iv. Exhaust valve timing at CLOSE: 10* ATDC
i. Specs at 108* intake centerline, .050 tappet lift:
i. Intake valve timing at OPEN: 12* BTDC
ii. Intake valve timing at CLOSE: 48* ABDC
iii. Exhaust valve timing at OPEN: 56* BBDC
iv. Exhaust valve timing at CLOSE: 12* ATDC
j. The asymmetrical design of these lobes will not allow for accurate reading using centerline method.
This camshaft is designed for naturally aspirated applications.
k. Power band is roughly between 3500-6800 rpm for 342-355ci. Gear the vehicle accordingly;
4.10 minimum <-- not sure if they considered the TKO or not
l. Preferred spring pressure is 150-155# on the seat. Recommended to use high-pressure oil pump,
lightweight valvetrain and titanium retainers.
19. PRW high flow mechanical water pump, 180* T-stat
20. Old TKO transmission with “stage III” double sided ceramic clutch 550ft lb capacity
21. Ram 28oz billet steel flywheel
22. FMS aluminum driveshaft and safety loop
23. Rear: FMS 3.37s, Auburn Pro 31 spline limited slip diff., Strange SS 31 spline c-clip eliminator axles,
Summit aluminum diff. cover/stud girdle, 3” hardened wheel studs, “fully welded axle tubes,” red line oil
24. 130 amp 3G alternator
25. 30# Accel injectors
26. MSD Blaster TFI coil
27. 8mm Taylor wires
28. MSD 6A
29. SCT 6600 flash chip
30. High-torque mini-starter
31. Battery is in the trunk
32. MAC Exhaust: 1 ¾ longtube headers w/ 3” collector, 2 ½” h-pipe, Spintech Prostreet 2 ½ mufflers dumped
33. Suspension: Eibach springs, UPR uppers, Granatelli weight jacker lowers, KYB GR2 front struts,
rear KYB GasaJust shocks, Maximum Motorsports adjustable caster/camber plates,
Steeda front sway bar with poly bushings (looks like a stock one repainted),
Kenne Bell style weld on subframe connectors